Rudder slop/play question and possible stern damage

[Mattlikesbikes]

I know I am asking a lot of questions.

I have 2 questions regarding the rudder first the lower hole on the gudgeon is wallowed out and the is  some slop in it .  How much is that going to affect  the performance of the boat?  I have read the thread about taking it to a machine shop and having a bushing pressed in  but I do not have time for that I might just try to shim it with a piece of plastic. I assume the rudder should have as little play as possible.

Second question at one point someone attached a piece of metal to the knob that tightens the rudder blade to give it more leverage ( I tried to remove it but the knob broke). I guess at over the years it was slamming against the stern while on the trailer and gouged it up.  It does not look too bad to me but I attached a pic to see what you guys think.

Matt

[Salty19]

One of things about forums that are nice is the abilty to read older posts.
Click on the home page above, to the left. Then type in "bushing" in the search window.
There is a ton of info on bushings to read up on.  

It will surely give you the detail you're looking for.

[Mattlikesbikes]

Thanks Salty

I searched on bushing andf found all the info I needed.  My search-fu last night was lacking plus I was not searching for the word "bushing".
I got the shim working for now so I might wait until after the summer to to do that mod.


Matt

[skip1930]

Matty O`Boy, My other Com-Pac buddy in Wama-Lama Lagoon, Sturgeon Bay, Wisconsin [ the Lagoon has three CP-19's and one CP Sun Cat ] has a MK I CP-19. One of the 'more tannish' colored hulls. This boat has 1000's of hours under her keel. She's an old boat and it's bottom rudder hole was hogged out. No big deal.

I drilled both top and bottom holes clean through on both the rudder's head and the casting bolted to the transom. Everything with a 1/2 inch drill.

From ACE hardware Gerry purchased four standard bronze or brass shoulder bushings [ 1/2 inch outside x 3/8 inch inside hole x 3/4 inch long ] plus two 3-3/4 inch x 3/8 inch bolts with four flat washers and two jam-nylock nuts. Put it all together with copious amounts of Permatex Neverseaze.

I dropped in the lower shoulder bushing and it was a tad loose and wobbly in a still oval but drilled 1/2 inch hole.

The solution was to take an aluminum soda can and cut a strip of ' aluminum can ' with a scissors about 3/4 inch wide and just long enough to wrap once around the outside of the bushing. Drop the wrapped bushing into the hole and waa~laa! The slop and wobble was gone.

Who needs a machine shop? For what?

OH. It may not be obvious, two of the shoulder bushings go on the top of the casting bolted to the transom. The other two shoulder bushings go on the bottom of the rudder's head. The shoulder bushings are paired together. Shoulder to shoulder. That's the bearing surface. And it makes no difference if the bushings don't or are not as long as the drilled holes. What's a quarter inch? This set-up raises the bottom of the rudder, the and tiller up a 1/4 inch or so.

The scuffs in the fiberglass can be lightly sanded, filled with any thickened resign, [ Marine-Tex is one ], smoothed with the flat edge of a razor blade or rubber flapper and sanded and painted. Or just sand it and paint it. That handle was such a pain I got rid of it, drilled a hole and pinned the rudder down.

skip.