another motor mount question

[dbinvermont]

I have a 1984 CP19 with what looks like the original motor mount.  It doesn't lift my Johnson 6hp Sailmaster out of the water (with the motor down), and it doesn't allow the motor to tilt up until it latches, with the mount up or down.
The result is, I sail with the lower unit in the water, with the prop spinning in neutral.
Obviously not the best scenario...

Has anyone run into this?

-DB

[skip1930]

" Has anyone run into this? "

I have run into this plenty-big time with my short shaft 5 hp Mercury two stroke.
~Not off the transom far enough to tilt when raised without swinging the motor full to left hand turn position to clear the cockpit combing.
~Too close to transom for comfort. Transom in the way of pull starting and choking.
~Not enough prop in the water when motoring in a chop. Cavitation.

Here is what I did many years ago. Basically hang the outboard two inches further back and two inches further down using 2 inch rubber blocks and a 10 mm aluminium plate.
This year I'm saw cutting two pair of horizontal aluminium arms out of my old flat blade factory rudder.
These will be X inch amount longer for more 'back' and more swing 'down' or 'up'. Reusing all other factory componets. Note the need to grind off material on the 'release and pull-up handle' so it would better clear the hull's black rubber bumper.

skip.

[dbinvermont]

Skip-
Thanks for this. I think you are dead on with the solution. It does seem like two inches more clearance would make all the difference.
I don't think I would need to change the height any, since my motor is the looooong shaft.
But yes, when I try to tilt up (it doesn't matter which way the motor is (full left or full right), the top of the hood hits the boat before it can latch.

One more project to make the winter go by!

Thanks again!

-Dave

[skip1930]

For you, making the arms longer would make the difference too, as this pulls things back off the transom as well. Me thinks.

skip.

[cycle]

"Note the need to grind off material on the 'release and pull-up handle' so it would better clear the hull's black rubber bumper."

Skip,

Forgive my ignorance, but what's best to use to grind aluminum?  Every time I've tried it the wheel fills with particulate.  Then I'm wire brushing my grinding wheel.  There must be a better way.

Jon

[skip1930]

" Forgive my ignorance, but what's best to use to grind aluminum?  Every time I've tried it the wheel fills with particulate.  Then I'm wire brushing my grinding wheel.  There must be a better way. "

I'm sorry I did not see this question till just 21-January-2013. What's said to be the most depressing day of the year. And I'm not talking about the second coming of Obama.

At Ace Hardware a grinding stone can be purchased for my 5 inch angle grinder for either STEEL or ALUMINUM.
Read the label on the stone.
The label in RED is for steel...as in ferrous...
and the BLUE is for aluminium as in 'It's just highly packed together mud'.

But actually I perfer the unidirectional flap-sandpaper type disc that can replace any of the two grinding discs referenced above. I used a awful lot of discs on this thing.

skip.

[Wiggs]

I have the same problem with my Nissan 6hp long shaft. What I do is first raise the motor with the motor mount, then as I tilt the motor I rotate it (turn it so the throttle arm is on top) that gives me just enough clearance to lock it up. Not the best solution, but with the boat in the water it is the easiest.

Sorry I did not see this thread earlier.

Wiggs

[cycle]

"Read the label on the stone.
The label in RED is for steel...as in ferrous...
and the BLUE is for aluminium as in 'It's just highly packed together mud'."

Pretty bad that I somehow missed that in 55 years of life.

Anyway - thanks Skip!