IDA Rudder Blade

[carry-on]

Considering a foiled rudder blade for my CP-16. After reading many posts about the blade, I am convinced of the manoeuvring improvements. The set-up on my 1997 model is a little different: mid boom traveler, Jib tracks on the edge of the cabin and a centerboard. Maybe the change would be less significant with my rig, but just the low speed control would be a plus.
My question relates to potential damage to the foiled blade. On a few occasions, the prop and aluminum rudder blade have swapped a little DNA with a kiss. Big noise, zero damage except to the helmsman's ego.
Would an underwater kiss ruin a $300 foiled blade?
If not ruined, what would the repairs entail?
Thanks.

[MacGyver]

Carry-on

Wait a bit and I will have a DIY about Foiling a rudder the technicians way. I plan to do it to our 19 in the next few months, probably be cheaper than buying one for sure.

I may even start doing them after I do mine first. Are you handy with tools?

Mac

[carry-on]

I am not a tool guy in terms of time, tools or talent. I can do some routine maintenance and repair, but would not take on the most projects shown by association members. Some generous soul might give me a "3" on a scale of 10.
So,I tend do buy good stuff like our ComPac and keep it in shape. 

[kearns]

I just purchased one of these from Rudder Craft.  I'm very pleased with it. The construction seems quite solid and the foil itself appears to be either a very hard and solid "plastic" or more likely a resin based material that has been bonded very solidly to an aluminum core (which looks much like the original aluminum rudder). Thus, the foil itself has a solid "spine" that gives it a lot of stiffness. I'm sure the guys at Rudder Craft would be willing to answer this question (they are very helpful).

Nonetheless, my guess is that a motor prop would gouge the foil if it came in direct contact. It may depend on the hp of your motor and whether the prop is steel or plastic (as might be the case on a very low powered kicker), and a glancing blow might not do serious damage. But, again, my guess is that the foil would be more likely to be damaged than the aluminum stock rudder simply because it is not made of metal. I doubt that the damage would be "fatal", because the foil appears to be quite solid. A gouge might be easily repaired with some epoxy filler and an overcoating of some sort.

Like you, I don't consider myself a DIYer, but I have had a lot of experience with various boats, surface repairs, some work with fiberglass, etc... I agree with you. Trying a do it yourself approach to manufacturing one of these foils would be a significant challenge. For the price, it is much better to purchase it.

By the way, I am curious about why you have had a problem with the prop hitting the rudder.  I wonder if your outboard motor bracket is set too far "inboard" and thus too close to the rudder. I've never checked my boat, so I don't actually know if my rudder would have clearance if I threw it completely over to one side. Also, my personal preference is never to "steer" with the motor itself unless I'm really in a tight spot.  I prefer to leave the motor and the prop more or less aligned with the center of the boat and do all of the steering with the tiller.

Kevin

[Salty19]

I gouged mine slightly after a grounding and failure on my part to move the rudder to center before starting the motor...no biggie just sand off the rough spot.   Epoxy probably will not stick the material, which is HDPE plastic.  I'm not sure what should be used, and since the gouge is about as big as a kernal of corn, I'm not concerned about it.

[brackish]

Also gouged my foiled rudder on my 23.  Happened during a grounding when the rudder kicked up enough to get to the blade when it was turned in that direction.  Now that I know, will shut down the motor on a grounding rather than try to steer out.  Took out a small chunk, but mine is fiberglass over an aluminum core plate.  Stock from the factory these days.  A bit of Marine Tex some fairing and, after repainting, cant tell where it was.

Rudder can't get in the motor locked down or up, but at some point partially up it can.

[Bob23]

Carry:
   Your 16 sounds very interesting. Any photos? I guess the 16 centerboarders were a forerunner to the Legacy, eh?
   I've also driven my wood foiled rudder blade into my outboard's prop- once. It was a short kiss so no damage but the sound was awful.
   I sail an older 23 and the foiled rudder blade made all the difference in the world. She pointed higher, tacked through easier and, ultimately, I'd like to believe she's a bit faster. I made my own blade which I'm pretty happy with although, in retrospect, I made it a bit too wide. Maybe I'll make another this winter. I'd love to experiment with different blade sizes to see which works better.

 

Best to you in your rudder adventures.
Bob23

[Billy]

Anybody use a prop guard?

[carry-on]

Thanks to all for the responses and input. Sounds like the foiled rudder can take some hits and be repaired. I also had a response from Rudder Works this afternoon saying minor damage could be sanded out and reworked.
My "accidents" happen a slow speeds when I am coming back onto the trailer, single handed, in a cross wind. The boat is squatting a bit because I am in the stern to be near the motor controls. Slowing and losing steerage; sometimes the rudder kicks up a little because the ramp is shallow. Then trying to save the approach with too much rudder. Click,click!

I have pictures of the boat but have not investigated posting on this forum. I know the instructions are available and I will look into it.
Thanks again.