Boom Brake Project

[Allure2sail]

I'm thinking 5/16" double braid line with a poly cover would be ideal for this. This is a light load and the lighter thinner line will not bind up as easily.  You have a 27, correct?

Hi:
Just order a 5/16" X 50 foot halyard double braid w a poly cover (splice on one end for a shackle to attach to the forward most chainplate on the starboard side). Plan on running the other end from the forward port chainplate through a couple of blocks on the stanchions to a cam cleat somewhere on the comming.
Bruce

[Allure2sail]

Al,  The second loop is within the large eye, not around the waist of the Fig 8.  One would go in the large eye go around the arc one complete time then around the neck back into the large eye around the arc completely then exit.  All the friction is on the two arcs of the large eye of the descender not around the neck of the eight.  I use 5/16" line & one loop on my 19.





Capiche?

TG

Hi Tim:
I've got a couple of quick questions for you....
Have ever had to add a second wrap for more friction?
Have you run the lines to the chainplates or stanchions?
Have you ever had to let out some more control line when the boom is swung way out, like wing on wing or trying to take some of the heel out because a nervous crew member?
Do you feel that the friction (braking)  that is applied is pretty constant through out the swing of the boom from say max port position to max starboard postion?
Thank you for all your input.....I'm determined to make this work.....I know you did it with your setup.
Bruce
S/V Allure

[Tim Gardner]

 Quote:

I've got a couple of quick questions for you....
Have ever had to add a second wrap for more friction? Not on my 19.
Have you run the lines to the chainplates or stanchions? I use snatch blocks on the port & starboard first stanchion base (forward of the mast ) & route the lines aft to two extra cleats  on my gunwales put there by the PO.
Have you ever had to let out some more control line when the boom is swung way out, like wing on wing or trying to take some of the heel out because a nervous crew member? No the line needs to be shortened some to act as a preventer when sailing wing on wing, and tension released to act as a boom brake for controlled gybes.
Do you feel that the friction (braking)  that is applied is pretty constant through out the swing of the boom from say max port position to max starboard postion? Pretty much. the tension is greatest as the boom passes over the centerline of the hull.


I use this arrangement all the time as upper Smith Mountain Lake has high cliffs and banks that tend to funnel the wind down the lake as in a canyon.  We tend to go like a BOOH downwind and Beat the H out of it back.  Two other uses, it stabilizes the boom when reefing, and holds the boom to either port or starboard when anchored.

[Allure2sail]

Hi Tim:
I hope I have ordered enough line (a 5/16" X 50 foot halyard) to be able to run both sides back to the cockpit. I had intended on mounting the starboard side fixed with a shackle on the spliced end to the forward most chainplate and a snatch block on the port side to the corresponding chain plate and back to the cockpit to a cleat or maybe even a cam cleat. Do you think both sides need to be run back to the cockpit for adjustments of tension.
Thanks again.........hopefully I'm running out of questions.  LOL
Bruce

[Allure2sail]

Update...
The 5/16" line arrived today and it feels great, doesn't bind, looks like it is a go. I will see tomorrow if I have enough line to run both ends back to the cockpit for adjustment and cleating off. If a little short maybe I can use the middle chainplate instead.
Thank you everyone....
Bruce
S/V Allure

[skip1930]

A boom break? Naa, I just duck my head.

skip.