Com-Pac 19 issues

[wbrown62]

I had a few questions concerning a CP 19 I looked at a few weeks ago.

1. It had anti fouling on the hull bottom that did not look very good. What does this involve to recoat? Is it a difficult job?

2. The paint/ gelcoat? on the inside was peeling all over and would need to be redone as well. The fiberglass matting could be seen under this peeling. Again, is this a difficult process and how involved is it?

3. A couple of the stanchions were slightly bent over and the base no longer laid flat against the hull. They were bent slightly. Possible place for water intrusion?

4. The mast was cracked near the spreaders and had been repaired. It looked like a professional job. I could not even see a seam, but the owner stated the mast was about 1/2" shorter. Is this a problem?

Thanks in advance. Sorry if the questions seem stupid. LOL

[skip1930]

1~Anti-fouling below waterline. Sand it, wipe it, repaint it.

2~Scrap the loose flaky paint away and repaint it. I use on both wood and glass, Rustoleum oil [fish oil] base enamel, gloss grey. It's normal to see the raised pattern in the resign impregnated woven fiberglass cloth. It's strong like bull! Don't sand anything smooth. Even when you paint it you can see daylight through it. It's fine. Do not paint the bilge if an electric bilge pump will be installed. Don't need to clog the pump screen up with peeling paint. Keep it reddish fiberglass color.

3~Remove the safety line, unscrew the bent stanchions flatten out the base and true up the post on the work bench and re-bed these back down with 3M-5200 slow set. The screw holes into the 3/4" ply under the deck ought to be filled with epoxy and the new screws put back in the same newly epoxied holes. Re string the safety lines. Go to Ace Hardware and buy two round keeps with an Allen key set screw to slide the safety lines through so when the pelican hooks are undone on the stern stanchions, the safety line stays tight up stream toward the bow. Details, it's all in the details.

4~Not enough info. Was the mast re welded? Or the bad section cut out and the two pieces put back together? Welded or slugged with an internal hunk of hard wood? A lot of bent masts just get straightened out in the vee of a tree and some man power. No problem with a 1/2" shorter mast. Just turn the turn buckles in some more. Make sure the mast is plumb with the waterline and take a good look~see up the mast from the open FWD hatch while laying on your back on the vee birth. The standing rigging can pull the mast off center or pull a kink into it very easy. Take the strain off and she'll pop right back straight again. Better to be too loose then too tight. Haul the main up 100% at the dock or on the trailer, and...so you always know if fully up, mark the halyards with a black marker Pentel ink pen in the rope clutch when she's up all the way and locked in, no more guessing if it's fully up. Then pull the down haul down and tie it off. Same with the head sail. Are you running a furler? Or hanking on the headsail?

skip. Look at some of my photographs and posts.

[wbrown62]

Skip,

Thanks a bunch for the info. Very informative. As far as the mast, I only saw it in a horizontal position. I eyeballed down the mast and it appeared straight. The owner stated the bad part of the mast was cut and a sleeve added into the mast. I am not sure what material the sleeve is made of. Looking at the repair on the outside of the mast, I could not even see a cut joint at the repair area. The owner stated the mast was professionally repaired at a boat shop. He gave me the owners name in case I wanted to contact him to talk about the mast repair. That is all the info I have on the mast. At any rate, thank you very much for the informative response.

[skip1930]

Sounds like the mast repair was a sleeve [ slugged ] and then welded and ground smooth.
No wood sleeve if welded. Anyway the repair is as strong or stronger than the original extrusion.
If the mast was anodised from Dwyer in Illinois, then the weld won't be. No big deal.

Pull a string from top to bottom around the circumference to check for straightness, but why do that? Can't do much about it now if it's a tad off.
It will hold the sail up and that's all it's good for anyway.

skip.