Wet Sanding................

[Glenn Basore]

Can you wet sand Cetrol ?

I followed the instructions on the can, 3 coats, and not sanding between coats!

I'm just not happy with the results.

I sanded my teak prior to Cetrol and my surfaces were smooth but my finshed 3rd coat of Cetrol just doesn't seem to have a very smooth finish.

So, can you wet sand Cetrol after drying for 48 hrs?

by wet sanding and then polishing I thought I would have a nicer even finish. (the finish now has open pours)

Glenn

PS, also, I bought a "Satin Finish Cetrol" which seemed to be a very glossy finish.

[Keith]

I'm no expert, but I got pretty good results by giving the wood a once over with a scotchbrite pad (eg "greenie-weenie") between coats.  Maybe give it a try then add one more coat of Cetol?

HTH,

Keith

[skip1930]

Why wet sand the third coat at all? I'd dry sand the Cetol with a 3-M scratch pad. Just knock the gloss off and take down the 'bumps'.
After drying for 48 hours, should be hard enough for this kind of abuse.
Tac wipe away the dust and apply the #3 coat again. If you mess up, do the above again. Maybe the third coat ought to be cut with solvent a wee bit for a 'wetter' coat that lays down, drys slower. Use a slow solvent. Not a fast [ hot--evaporates quickly ] solvent.

Doing a water wet sanding job on the coat may just raise the grain of the wood IF the surface is compromised down to the wood, allowing water to touch the wood.

I'm in the process of letting my wood go back to all-a-natural, allowing the Cetol to deteriorate off with the help of some elbow grease, pressurized water, nylon brush and soap and more 3-M scratch pads. Soon I'll be done removing the Cetol and then I can go back to oiling the wood.

skip.

[Glenn Basore]

Skip,

Interesting statement about removing Cetrol and going back to all natural teak oil!

I was thinking, how hard is this going to be to go back to natural teak?

My reason for trying Cetrol was, Twice a year I would sand (lightly) and re apply the Teak oil. I thought perhaps the cetrol would hold up for 2 years before having have to do it again...............saving me the hard work. Now I'm not so sure.............

As to a thinner, I was thinking of just that. I have 3 coats of Cetrol on the wood, I did use a nylon pad to go over it lightly to take off some of the bumps, still not really happy with my results.

I was thinking of using paint thinner or mineral spirits to thin it out a bit for a final coat after a light sanding.

your thoughts?

Glenn

[Bob23]

   Why don't you remove the teak that you can? Cetol, while promising easy application, is not that hard a finish. I use at least 5 coats of Flagship varnish on my exterior teak. Sure, it's a pain to sand between coats and it does take time, but when it finally dries, it is a hard finish. A maintenance coat in the fall and one in the spring is all that's needed unless a chip in the varnish has occurred. I just happen to like a very high gloss finish and Cetol, without the final coat being gloss, isn't all that shiney.
   Just lightly sand the teak....no need to wet sand.
   I like the idea of letting the teak go grey and applying teak oil. Maybe next boat...we'll see.

Bob23

[skip1930]

The Cetal can would indicate the correct solvent for thinning.
I don't think mineral sprits would be the best choice. I might try linseed oil.
Mix up a Dixie cup of a mixture and spread out a bit on a scrap piece of wood.
Watch it dry. See if you like it.

As all of those who tried Cetal, "It ain't varnish" but it's not suppose to be.
Some say it's not glossy enough, some say it's too orange, but it's always opaque. Never clear.

skip. By the way...messaging from across the pond in Marionett-Menominee. Had to motor bare poles for 20 minutes through a hail storm. The ice balls and 60 + winds that blew me backwards hurt like hell even with 5 hp pushing me. Was able to keep her bow-in to the wind. No broaching. Was with in 1/2 mile of the harbor.

[Bob23]

Sounds like conditions I'd like to not encounter! How long did the storm keep up? That could have been a disaser...glad you and "Comfort" are ok.
I believe the Cetol can does not advise thinning, if I remember correctly. I use the Teak colored Cetol on the trims on the cabin sides above the portlights. I can't seem to keep varnish on 'em for some reason. Maybe they flex a bit while sailing...don't know. I was gonna paint them this spring but could'nt bring myself to do it. The regular Cetol is too orange for my eye but the Teak flavor is just right...a bit darker.
Glenn:
  I use Cetol Teak flavor on the Mahogany handrails on the decks of a customers bay front home. It will require a fall maintenance coat and a spring one too. I don't think Cetol had the UV inhibitors that Flagship varnish does, but it's a lot faster to work with.
Bob23

[Salty19]

Yep, you're not supposed to thin Cetol.

My advice with finishing is to spend time sanding down the irregularities before coating with anything.   Makes the final result smooth and very attractive.

Admittedly I go a little overboard with varnishing, but it does look good and lasts a long time.  First step..sand then part with 80 grit until smooth, then 220 grit. 
Apply teak cleaner per instructions, scrub with a scothbrite pad. Let the wood dry.  Apply teak brightener per instructions. Let dry.  Then 4 heavy treatments of teak oil letting it soak for 2 days or more between coats.More coats are OK.  Clean with acetone until new rags come out clean, then apply Starbrite teak sealer.  It doesn'ty dry too well alone...let it soak in for a day and clean again with acetone. Then mix the sealer and cetol together (about 20% sealer/80% cetol).  2-3 coats of that, let dry for a day in between.  Lightly sand the rough spots off.  Reapply cetol w/o sealer.  Let dry for at least 2 days-more in cooler weather (up to 2 weeks).  Lightly sand by hand again with 220 grit, then varnish 5-6 coats (or more if you time).  I never have luck with thin coats of varnish. I put it on very heavy and go back over it within a few minutes to remove excess and drips. Don't wait very long else you'll get brush marks. Use as few brush strokes as possible and brush into wet areas for best results.  Lightly sand and clean with acetone between coats.   Fix any drips or runs along the way.   Also don't put the part into service until at least a week after everything is done.  Needs cure time.

I've used paint thinner in varnish and that does work well to evenly spread the thick varnish.  Just make sure you allow it to dry.  For me, that's usually a lot longer than the can indicates.

Yes a lot of work, but it's really just 15 minutes of work repeated every few days for a month or so.  Not that big of a deal.  Good winter project for us northerners.  I'll need to reapply the varnish this spring (one or two coats), but the base layers are holding up great and still glossy after sitting in a slip during two seasons.  Not too bad...

[Glenn Basore]

Salty,

Now I'm confussed!

Are you saying you can varnish over the Cetrol?

I had sanded everything pretty good before using the Cetrol. I didn't sand between coats following the instruction "not needed"

The finish is growing on me a bit and over all, looks a lot better than before.

Has anyone used "Bristol"......I don't know if Bristol is a varnish or urethane?...............

I even thought about using Shellac as I have used it on other woods and liked the results, also easy to work with and touch up.

Glenn

[Salty19]

Yep, varnish right over the Cetol.  Works very well!!!

OK to not sand between coats of Cetol.  You'll find after 3 coats it probably needs the rough spots to be knocked down a bit.  Just apply more to maintain layer thickness. 

You can also mix the Cetol and varnish too.  I use Minwax Helmsman spar varnish, gloss.  No complaints. 

Never used Bristol.  Brackish did and his brightwork looks top notch too.

[Glenn Basore]

Thanks to all.................

I will study this a bit more.

Glenn