Interior Repairs

[Bob McKay]

I just purchased a 1975 Compac 16.  The wood on the interior of the boat is in bad shape and will have to be replaced.  Due to the limited space towards the stern of the boat, after the existing wood is removed, does anyone have a suggestion on how to attach new plywood to the boat hull?
Bob McKay

[acurtis]

Bob,
I just bought a 1987 CP-16/2 with what sounds like a similar interior.  Some rotten wood, etc.  I'm still trying to figure if I've got all the water out of the boat (it was left open in the rain).  I've got lots of exterior work as well, but damn, I own a sailboat!

I'll be following your posts and the responses.  I hope to post some pictures tonight, in the hope of generating advice.  I know other's have been down this road before.
Good Luck!

Al Curtis

[Bob McKay]

Looks like we both have the same problem.  There is so little space towards the stern that I can hardly reach the area let alone do any work.  I think I have figured out how to measure and cut the plywood.  But how do I access the back portion of the plywood to epoxy it?
Bob McKay

[wes]

Suggest you guys call or email Gerry Hutchins about this. He has been fantastic in providing hints and tips during my renovation of my 19. The horse's mouth, so to speak. His contact info is available on the Hutchins web site.

- Wes

[Bob McKay]

Thank you.  I will do that tomorrow.
Bob McKay

[wes]

I would also seriously consider just buying your replacement wood parts from Hutchins. Their prices are reasonable, and they will cut them exactly to match the original patterns, leaving you to just mount and finish them. I ended up doing that on my 19 and was happy. Everything fit like a glove, and I was saved the colossal headache of finding a source for marine grade teak plywood, having to buy whole sheets and cut the necessary curves, etc. When it comes to metal hardware you can find cheaper sources than Hutchins, but for wood I would go with Hutchins every time.

- Wes

[Bob McKay]

That is a great idea.  Being a part of this group is really helpful.  Thanks.  Another question.  The wood that I have taken out is extremely wet.  Is there a problem with water getting down in the keel?
Bob McKay

[Mountaineer62]

I just purchased a 1975 Compac 16.  The wood on the interior of the boat is in bad shape and will have to be replaced.  Due to the limited space towards the stern of the boat, after the existing wood is removed, does anyone have a suggestion on how to attach new plywood to the boat hull?
Bob McKay

I cut out the rotted portions aft of the compression post afte  r preparation of foamboard patterns and replaced with exterior fir 1/2 in. plyboard.  Rather than spend $hundreds on West System coating the new bunkboards, I coated the boards with TiteboardsIII, less expensive but water resistant.  I will attach the boards to the interior hull with West system 2-part epoxy and tape.

Yestserday I discovered the anchor locker bulkhead was totally rotten,  I have prepared a foamboard pattern and cut out a 3/4 inch ply replacement, covered it with Titebond III.  I plan to mount "cleats" to the inside of the hull with two-part epoxy, insert the new 3/4" ply pattern between the cleats, as a new bulkhead.  It has no strength requirement so mounting to hull permanently is not required.  I will probably drill 1" inch holes to improve air flow from the anchor locker and prevent future rot.

Hope this helps.

[RCAN]

Guys,

I'm going to follow your progress on this as well. Bunks on my 1976 Com PAC  16 must have rotted at one point and a previous
owner replaced the first 6 feet but left the last few feet toward the stern unfinished and open.Some day I would like to bring it all back to its original look.

I'm comforted that I'm not the only one with this kind of repairs pending.

Robert

[deisher6]

Just purchased a '89 C16 and am trying to get it ready to sail.  The interior was not in to bad of shape. The cushion covers cleaned up well and work with just replacing the zippers.  The foam responded well to sunlight and Febreze. 

Pressure washed the interior two times to eliminate wasp nests and one huge spider. When I pulled out the teak plywood that is forward between the berths and chain/battery locker to oil it, there was a couple of inches of water in a small 4x6 compartment just forward of the compression post.  Vacuumed it out several times over three days and it kept filling back up.  Then drilled several 2.5 inch holes around the hole that was there and managed to remove the rotted sides of the box and then dug out foam all the way to the bottom glass.  As of this morning, there is no more water there. 

I drilled a hole in the bulkhead between the two bunks to see if there was any water there.  There wasn't... it must be a separate compartment.  Wondering where else water might lurk.

Will put in a small round aluminum vent normally used on eves or soffits to allow air flow to the area around the compression post.

Today: replaced the hause pipe, put the interior teak back in (except for the forward bulkhead with the fuse panel), had a neighbor with a forklift help me take it off of the trailer and put on two coats of bottom paint, and replaced the lower guides (bunk boards) on the trailer with 2x5's much like those shown in the C16 section.

Tomorrow neaten up the wiring on the trailer and get a vin number stamped on it.  MT doesn't care much about registering a boat.. but a trailer is something else.  Then on to replacing the rigging and fixing the outboard.

Do not see how any body could do any work in the aft end of a C16.  I have two inspection ports on the cockpit seats near the stern.  They let in light and I was able to clean out the back end, but that is about all.  If it is bad enough that some folks must take the deck off of the hull to do some serious repairs?

I really wanna go sailing, soon!

Good luck with both your boats.