bilge pump project finished

[brackish]

decided to go ahead and use the "Skip" method which is not consistent with conventional wisdom but seems to work great.  Thanks Skip.  No new hole in the ole hull, shared outlet for the auto pump and manual gusher. 

Hard to find a Tee for a 1.5" id hose to 1.125" id hose, but a simple PVC tee 1" X 3/4" will do the job, the 1" has to be turned down about .050" but plenty of thickness left for this.  The small inlet OK as is.  To further prevent back flow from the stern outlet, I looped the small line up and came in from the top.  It works.



My pump and level switch sit on a piece of 3/8" thick Corian ( I keep finding stuff to do with the leftovers from my kitchen remodel) and the Corian plate is not attached to the boat.  The weight of the plate and hose keep it in the bottom of the bilge no matter the sea state or degree of heel.  The benefit of not attaching is that after pumping out, I can lift it up and easily scoop or sponge up the last bit the pump can't get out.  This is a tested method, had the same on my Columbia 8.7 for 16 years.

[T]

I also just installed an electric bilge pump in my CP23. I have it wired to the battery with an in-line fuse. I also installed a switch that allows me to run the pump in manual mode or auto mode. In addition, I installed an indicator light to let me know when the pump is running, not just if the switch is on. A piece of lexan cut to fit the bilge serves as a mounting plate and it too stays in place without the aid of being fastened to the hull.

I haven't plumbed it through the hull yet. I was also planning to connect it to the original thru-hull for the manual pump. I'm considering using check valves to prvent either pump from pumping the water back down the other pump's discharge hose.

[brackish]

I also just installed an electric bilge pump in my CP23. I have it wired to the battery with an in-line fuse. I also installed a switch that allows me to run the pump in manual mode or auto mode. In addition, I installed an indicator light to let me know when the pump is running, not just if the switch is on. A piece of lexan cut to fit the bilge serves as a mounting plate and it too stays in place without the aid of being fastened to the hull.

I haven't plumbed it through the hull yet. I was also planning to connect it to the original thru-hull for the manual pump. I'm considering using check valves to prvent either pump from pumping the water back down the other pump's discharge hose.

T.

You should check the specs on your manual pump, mine already had a check valve on the outlet side to prevent backflow from any source.  I believe my loop is enough to keep from having any backflow through the 12V pump line, although it provides a lot of capacity for backflow when the pump is turned off, but I just sponge it out and don't have to worry about a check valve failing.  My Rule install instructions said no check valve.

I also installed a selector switch, and a fuse box, then went directly to the battery.  Idea about a light when running is a good idea, wonder about placement which would let me see it from the cockpit.  When I'm below I can hear the pump but not in the cockpit.

[T]

I installed an Atwood Sahara 750 pump. I'll have to check about the internal check valve.

Your switch panel looks very nice. It took me awhile to decide where to mount my switch and indicator light. I chose to mount it in the coaming box (for lack of a better name) at the rear of the cockpit. This box already contained the key switch, hour meter and kill switch for my outboard motor. I though it would be good to have the switch and light located where they could be seen from the cockpit or dock. Although I trailer my boat right now, there may come a time that I leave the boat in a slip. It seemed logical to me that I'd want to be able to know right away if the pump was running. Or even be able to give someone instructions on how to turn the pump on or off if there was a problem.