Windlass instalation on a 27/2

[Allure2sail]

Last summer I decided to install an anchor windlass on my 1987 27/2. My summer cruise to Long Island with the local sailing group I belong to was supposed to be allot of anchorage stops so it was time to make my life easier. The windlass is the basic Maxwell that I purchased at the Defender warehouse sale in the spring of 2010. Along with the windlass I purchased 80 feet of chain to work with the windlass. I had the existing 1/2" anchor line rode spliced to the chain for a total of 200'. Pictures attached are the end results of the project. To power the windlass I mounted a group 27 marine battery under the V-berth on the starboard side. It is in a battery box that has angled shims underneath it to keep the box level. I secured the box to the inner wall with screws (finish washers on the outside wall and fender washers and nuts on the inside) the battery box wall. The relay and circuit breaker was mounted under the v-berth and just above the AC outlet as pictured. Control switch to pull up and let out was in the cockpit on the starboard side, just under the autopilot control. I used the template that was supplied by Maxwell to position the 4" hole for the unit but based its location by centering the drop point hole over the existing horse pipe hole that was there from the factory. The deck up front is pretty thick and I had to finish the cut through by going as deep as I could with the hole saw from on top and then finish the cut through from inside the Rode locker. Kind of tight but it all went into place and lined up. The battery at this time is isolated from the other two group 27 batteries under the companion way stairs. I have a good sized flexable solar panel that I use to put what ever current I use from the windlass battery, it takes usually a full day Of sunlight to bring the battery back up to 13 volts. I sneak the wire through the front starboard porthole to a small wiring harness with a fuse in it to the battery itself. Aside from the mounting of the gearbox and motor inside the chain locker it was not a difficult project. The things I would change would be have purchased more chain (100 feet). The reason for that is I could cover 95% of my anchoring by using all chain and then cleat it off using a snubber line and chain hook. I never anchor off the bowsprit it is a no no! I use my snubber line (15 foot 1/2" dock line with a chain hook to grab a link and cleat it off using one of the chock blocks and central cleat. The only other thing I should have done was smooth out with sandpaper the hole in the foredeck that the anchor line is feed through (I'll do this by spring launch). The rough hole surface appears to snag the line from time to time and I have to go below and give it a downward pull to get it falling again. That's the reason I wished I had bought more chain, I would not have to let out any of the line out if I had more chain. Or better yet have an all chain rode (expensive). All in all it was a good move. I use a 22 pound danforth with this setup and have never dragged (altough I keep a 18 pound Bruce anchor, chain and another 200 feet of anchor line just in case). I also added another cleat up front by using the existing four holes as the two inner holes for each cleat. Used the cleat to mark the four outside holes and drilled through the deck. coated all the holes with sealant and use huge stainless steel fender washer on the inside. Nice to have two cleats up there....
Bruce


WINDLASS INSTALLED



DUAL CLEATS & WINDLASS



WINDLASS CONTROL SWITCH



CIRCUIT BREAKER & BATTERY BOX MOUNTING SCREWS



RELAY & CIRCUIT BREAKER MOUNTING UNDER V-BERTH



BATTERY BOX (VIEWED FROM ABOVE)



GEAR BOX & MOTOR (LOOKING UPWARD)

[capt_nemo]

I have installed vertical windlasses on a large sailboat and a large trawler, used them in extensive cruising with all chain rodes, including the Bahamas, and would offer the following comments/suggestions.

First, nice, neat, well done installation.

Although there is definitely a weight consideration, I would highly recommend an ALL CHAIN RODE, or at least enough chain to cover that 95% of anchoring situations.
Try to have the chain fall to the lowest point possible in the bow area. You might consider directing the fall of the chain further back or to a lower area (bilge) with a downward sloping length of supported 1 1/2 " PVC Pipe. Don't go for aluminum or stainless - aside from being expensive, I found through experience that the slippery surface of PVC works MUCH better in the pipe for sliding chain! You can carry a spare if the one mounted wears or breaks. If you do use a PVC Pipe, attach a "U" shaped piece of stainless  steel round rod or one with right angle legs just in front of the lower lip of the pipe with SS hose clamps holding it in position along the sides of the pipe. This allows the chain when being deployed, that is, pulled up into the pipe from below, to ride nicely over the hard round stainless rod into the pipe and toward the deck and not wear down the edge of the pipe irregularly which could cause problems.

Continue to always use the nylon snubber with chain hook! And, after hooking chain, pay out several additional feet to form a large loop of chain from bow to hook. This puts additional weight on the hook and pulls the snubber and chain rode down into the water for a slightly more horizontal pull on the anchor itself. Every little bit helps.

Recommend you switch to the Bruce Anchor for your Primary. It is a better anchor all round in most bottoms, and especially in wind shifts or changing current. My primaries were Bruce Anchors and served me well for many years of anchoring.

[Allure2sail]

Great input...thank you:
I totally agree with you about an all chain rode, or at least enough chain to cover 95% of your anchoring situations. I think that the fact I should have purchased more chain was the only shortfall to the project. The deepest anchorage I can think of that I've been to is around 20 to 25 feet. That would put me in the range of I would imagine 125 to 135 feet of chain rode. I currently let out all the chain and then enough line to make sure that all the chain is on the bottom before it transitioned into the 1/2" anchor line. In tighter quarters I let out only to the end of the chain and use the hook and snubber line to cleat off. The 1/2" anchor line is what snags up when I try to retrieve it, once I get to the chain the haul up preforms flawlessly. I allways drive the boat slowly forward with the engine and never pull the boat to the anchor with the windlass.....that's a no no. Also never anchor of the bow sprite, take it off the roller and give your self enough slack to go through the chock block and then to the cleat. If you anchor off the bow sprite you load the headstay up with unnecessary forces and could weaken it.
THanks again
Bruce
S/V Allure
PS I know you'll get a chuckle out of this. I bought the "Bruce" anchor becuase it's my first name LOL! I may try it this summer but most boats in this area (Narragansett Bay) either use a Danforth, a Delta or a CQR style, pretty much in that order.

[skip1930]

Good job me thinks.

skip.

[capt_nemo]

Bruce,

Glad to hear that other "plow" type anchors are used in your area. The literature, as well as practical experience (usage and testing) has shown that in most anchoring situations there is a big difference between the performance of the "Danforth" type of anchors and the "plow" types (Bruce, Delta, CQR, and several others). The advantage clearly pointing to the "plow" types. That is why I made the recommendation that you change to the Bruce as Primary. The Danforth is OK for a "lunch" hook or daytime anchor as well as in certain bottom conditions.

Also, think again about all the chain line and some transition to nylon lying on the bottom - chain withstands bottom abrasion well, nylon does not! Otherwise, carefully inspect your nylon line periodically for excessive chafe and cuts to the fibers. If wear or cuts are present, just cut it off the chain and splice the other end to the chain - what is commonly referred to as "swapping end for end".

As for the nylon line not feeding down thru the deck hole, I couldn't help but think about the expression used to provide a mental picture of attempting something difficult with little hope of success - "It was like trying to PUSH a rope!".

Fair winds, and may your anchors ALWAYS SET WELL!

capt_nemo