Depth Sounder Units

[Osprey]

My Suncat came with a Humminbird PiranhaMAX 215, which doesn't work. I don't fish anymore, so I'm thinking about replacing it with a simple depth sounder. The one I'm looking at is the HawkEye D10D. I'm also hoping to get by with an in-hull transducer. Anyone have this unit or any other recommendations.

Terry

[Greene]

We installed the same unit last season in our 19.  We epoxied it to the inside of the hull (inside the starboard V-berth storage well) and it worked very well.  It seemed to be pretty accurate and didn't spend any time searching for a depth to display.  If you epoxy it in place, make sure you don't get bubbles mixed up in your epoxy or it will diminish the sensors accuracy.

Mike and B

[Tom Ray]

I would not glue a transducer to the hull. Some future owner will probably curse you for that one!

Clean the transducer and hull thoroughly, carefully squirt out a blob of silicone, making sure not to trap any air bubbles. Press the transducer into the blob until it is almost, but not quite, touching the hull. Walk away for 24 hours.

They work using sound, and rubber is a sound damper, but a thin layer won't hurt for our purposes. Air bubbles or cored hulls mess them up.

[skip1930]

Either way you can always grind off both the silicone or epoxy down to the boat's inside.

I popped a couple of 2" dia. holes 6" in front and 6" to either side of the leading edge of the keel.
Gooped them in with copious amounts of 3M-5200. Had to grind out and remove a tad of the sound deadening foam
to find the fiberglass.


skip.

[Greene]

I epoxied the transducer in place as the Norcross installation instructions described.  In fact, they said to use "Only a 2-Part Slow Cure Epoxy"  and not to use "Any glue which is not a 2 part slow cure epoxy (Silicone Sealant, Weather Sealants, Rubbery Caulks, Construction Adhesives, 5 Minute or Quick Cure Epoxies, Rubber Cements, Colored Epoxies, etc.)"

STEP 3
Gluing the Transducer In Place
1. All surfaces to be bonded must be smooth, clean and dry.
If the hull surface is not smooth, sand it with 30 grit
sandpaper until a smooth surface is obtained in an area a
little larger in diameter than the length of the transducer.
2. Clean and dry both the selected area and the face of the
transducer with a weak solvent to remove any dust, grease
or oil.
3. Prepare the adhesive as per the directions supplied with
the adhesive (DO NOT mix the epoxy on the transducer).
4. Apply a generous amount of adhesive to the entire face of
the transducer (side opposite from the cable) and the
inside of the hull.
5. Press the transducer face onto the hull with a twisting
motion to expel all air bubbles. (If the hull is slanted,
temporarily secure the transducer in place with duct tape.)

Mike

[Osprey]

Thanks for all the replies. I've decided to go ahead and install the HawkEye and will report back after sea trials.

[Tom Ray]

I epoxied the transducer in place as the Norcross installation instructions described.  In fact, they said to use "Only a 2-Part Slow Cure Epoxy"  and not to use "Any glue which is not a 2 part slow cure epoxy (Silicone Sealant, Weather Sealants, Rubbery Caulks, Construction Adhesives, 5 Minute or Quick Cure Epoxies, Rubber Cements, Colored Epoxies, etc.)"

Did they say why? I have done it to several boats with silicone, and it works. I also wonder why quick setting epoxy would be any different?

[Tim Gardner]

Bubbles can form in the Quick epoxies when mixed, and set up before they can dissipate.  Screws up the signals. Silicone sealant works fine though.

TG