Spinaker setup?

[Billy]

My boat does not have one, but I was thinking about setting it up for one. I do have a pad eye at the top of my mast, just under the anchor light. Is that a place to hook up a block for a halyard? Please see attached.
http://s1011.photobucket.com/albums/af237/billybbingham/?action=view&current=P8010036.jpg

Also, as far as sheets, do you just use the jib cars? I don't have a wisker pole but I was thinking I could just use my boat hook. Seriously, do you even need one?


Any thoughts or suggestions? How do you set up yours?

I'll hang up and listen.

[brackish]

My boat does not have one, but I was thinking about setting it up for one. I do have a pad eye at the top of my mast, just under the anchor light. Is that a place to hook up a block for a halyard? Please see attached.
http://s1011.photobucket.com/albums/af237/billybbingham/?action=view&current=P8010036.jpg

Also, as far as sheets, do you just use the jib cars? I don't have a wisker pole but I was thinking I could just use my boat hook. Seriously, do you even need one?


Any thoughts or suggestions? How do you set up yours?

I'll hang up and listen.

Yes, that is the place for the halyard block, in front of all other rigging.

Get an asymmetrical spinnaker, also known as a cruising spinnaker, does not require a pole, has more reaching ability.  All the sailmaker sites will talk about the differences and explain both.

Your Genoa track/cars are probably too far forward.  I used a wide D shackle attached to each of my aftermost moring cleats, D shackle through the opening in the cleat.  Attached a block to the cleat and then ran the lines forward to the sheet cleats.

If I had it to do over, I would use a Spectra or Dyneema loop rather than a Wide D Shackle.  You can get a 6" spectra Titan loop from REI (in the climbing gear) for $3.40.  run it through the open part of the cleat and then attach your block to both of the ends.  The soft loops don't interfere with temporary use of the cleat at dockside and let the block float around as needed.  Strong, they have a 6500 lb. rating.  I think some don't even use a block, just run the line through the cleat opening.

Skip should jump in here, he has his rigged for a 19, there is a picture of his flying on one of the threads I started asking about the same things.  Good looking star cut asymmetrical.

[Billy]

Thanks for the quick response! My jib tracks are pretty far back (about 1' forward of the stern cleats). Why do the sheets need to be so far back?

[brackish]

Thanks for the quick response! My jib tracks are pretty far back (about 1' forward of the stern cleats). Why do the sheets need to be so far back?

You want them as far back as possible to get the best sheeting angles for the sail.  The sail has a long foot, and particularly when you are using it to reach, you need that distance.  You can try your Genoa track/cars at the aftermost position see if it works, but I suspect the sail will fly and draw better as far aft as possible. 

Harken site has a catalog that shows various setups for spinnaker sheet blocks.  It think they suggest padeyes on the transom for the blocks.

[Potcake boy]

Billy,
I use a North G3 on my 19 - it has a somewhat shorter foot.  Initially I set up blocks aft, near the stern cleats but found it awkward to sheet to the existing winches and in fact a bit too far aft for the short foot.  I bought a couple of metal lined bulls eyes that strap to stanchions (made as furling line eyes for bigger boats) and attached them to my stanchions at the forward end of the cockpit.  The sheet lead is excellent for my G3 and the sheets lead nicely to the existing winches.  You might want to try your genoa blocks before installing any additional gear.  I don't use a genoa so I don't have those cars and tracks.
Take a look at a North G3 - it can be used for close reaching and can be flown winged out with a whisker pole for running.  I find it an excellent all around sail for light air and can be carried safely even as the wind begins to pick up.  I have it in a Chute Scoop and deck bag which make it easy to use singlehanded.  Of course while handling the sail on the foredeck the auto pilot is tending to the steering duties.
Yes that bail at the mast head does serve to secure a spinnaker halyard turning block - but if you are using a CD furler for your jib you may need to do a little modification to prevent the spinnaker halyard from wrapping onto the furler.

Ron

[Billy]

Thanks,
no furling, my jib is hanked on.

I did just by an old wisker pole and I'm looking into some used spinnakers from my local sail loft. I'll keep you guys posted

[Salty19]

Do a search...good 'ol skip has documented his setup in detail in the past.

[skip1930]

That ring on the masthead casting atop the mast is the perfect place. With a fuler I believe that the halyard for the spinnaker ought to miss any upper furler gizmo that allows the head sail to be rolled up. With a hanked on head sail, pull her out of the way and bungee that jib to the deck.

As far as a spinnaker tac is concerned, I use a 10 inch long black rubber strap without the metal hooks that is attached to the most forward hoop of my bow pulpit. This keeps the tac high off the deck. Where it ought to be. I tied the strap on to the pulpit with some line using an anchor bend knot. Both ends. The business end of the strap has a quick disconnect with a easy pull lanyard that is attached to the tac of the sail. Your going to need a Q/D because any strain at this fastener will not be overcome with simple 'man~strength' in any bit of a breeze. It's a big, pulling sail. At some time that tac on the port side will need moving to the starboard tac. Always put the new tac in place before releasing the old tac. So that means that both spinnaker sheets must be long enough. I believe that mine was cut one boat length + ohhhh I don't know maybe 10 foot more. Each sheet fitted with Q/D's. Actually the slack sheet is long enough to be Q/D'ed to the new tac.

I AM trying to work out a way to change tacs without going forward to do that necessary job. Anybody have any ideas? Once I even tried to fly the spinnaker and head sail at the same time. That was a disaster!

I use no cars or blocks for the clew sheets. The clew sheet simply is fitted under the stern cleat with a stopper figure 8 knot and once set is fetched onto the cleat.

I have no use for any pole to hold the clew sheet 'out there'. This sail either fits and pulls well or the boat is crabbing or going straight down wind. I can't drive the boat STRAIGHT down wind. The asymmetrical spinnaker is a off-center sail without a pole. Straight down wind with a pole, but who can be bothered? You'll need a crew.

A asymmetrical spinnaker without a pole and with the inboard tac, tac'ed onto the center of the boat must fly off to the lee side of the point of sail. That sail is going to hog off to the hull's side. This drives the boat to 'lean over' and to drive the bow into the water.

Let her balloon out. The rubber strap takes some of the shock load between fills if the air is light.
I run the spinnaker halyard back to a deck organizer and a rope clutch just like the head and main sail. I do have a Harken '00' furler. It's a fun sail.

Beware that any loaded lines run over the glass of the cockpit combing will saw into the fiberglass. Use a ware plate.



skip1930