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How to create a mooring ?????

Started by tmolik, December 20, 2009, 03:22:35 PM

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Ted

I just read this whole thread.  Very interesting - I am going to put a mooring out on a Central Florida Lake this weekend.

My little CP-16 is currently tied up on a small lake on a ball somebody else put down.  They are coming back to the lake in two weeks, so I have to move my boat.  They have been tying up a large speedboat in about 6 feet of water and I have no idea what is holding down the mooring.

After reading through these notes, my fear is that if I put down an engine block, the DNR will come by and make me remove it.  That would be hard to do!  The cement block situation seems much easier (3 blocks, each can be picked up and carried out if need be, one by one).  I can pull the boat out if a hurricane comes along.  The lake is not that big, so it's not like we get big waves, although there are a number of professional wake boarders on the lake who do create some large wakes.

If I were in a big lake or tied up in an ocean harbor I would do the engine block for sure. I do wonder if anybody has a similar situation (small lake), used cement blocks, and have had problems given the conditions I have described.

Thanks in advance.
"Believe me, my young friend, there is NOTHING--absolute nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats." - The Water Rat

Ted

BTW, I posted on this thread because it was already here, in the Forum Help area - I can move it if need be.
"Believe me, my young friend, there is NOTHING--absolute nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats." - The Water Rat

nies

Ted, 2-3 cement will work fine, scope is the key the holding power of any mooring, the longer the tether the greater the ability of the  boat to ride easy,.....Phil

Billy

#18
nies,
Correct me if I'm wrong, but scope only applies when you have a fluke (see thread on sailing jargon) that "digs" into the ground. The larger the scope the better the angle on an anchor which prevents it from coming out of its holding. Concrete cinder bloks do not have any way to grab. It is their weight that keeps them in place. Therefore, it seems as minimal scope as possible would be your best bet as the hardest direction to move them would be up.
But I may be wrong  
1983 Com-Pac 19 I hull number 35 -no name-

nies

Billy you are partially correct,  but to short from concrete blocks or other weight to the boat and the boats rise and fall will lift the anchor and you will bounce down wind.....Phil

lostsailor101

What I suggest is a 3 point mooring system/ keep in mind I am in a tidal zone.

3 anchors spaced about 120 degrees apart with a 10 to 15 foot length of chain on each joined together with a large shackle.

From the shackle another length of chain for the vertical leg (1 ½  times the deepest water you will have)  example 6 foot of water at high tide = 9 foot of chain

From the vertical chain I use a swivel attached to a mooring buoy.

From the mooring ball to the boat I use two mooring pendants about 9 foot in length, with a rubber shock snubber

The idea is to limit the swing arch and provide a good 3 point hold regardless of the wind direction.
Not the cheapest, but this has been very effective for me, in extremely high winds and tides. I just happened to have a few extra anchors and chain laying around when I put mine down ....