battery

[Salty19]

Right, which is why I said:  Some controllers can accept multiple connections, so buy one for your future intended configuration.

No question  as you said the type of controller you're using depends on the overall configuration. Any 'ol unit may not cut the mustard.

[curtisv]

The diagram was for solar panel only.  Most controllers don't like eithe a powerful alternator or a charger.  The larger among them can take a small wind or water towed generator.

For the solar panel there is debate about whether the leakage back through the panel makes any difference or not.  The diode gives you a 0.6V voltage drop which reduces that effective charging of the panel.  Some chargers are smart enough to open the circuit when the battery voltage is higher than the charging voltage.

For the alternator check the charge controller spec.  If the charge controller prevents back leakage then definitely leave out the diode on a solar panel.  If not, then you could go either way.  If you have more than one charge source, put a diode on each to prevent one from putting back voltage on the other.  You can toast a solar panel with an alternator.  Alternators already have diodes (a set of four called a bridge rectifier).

Curtis

[curtisv]

btw- I'm assuming you have a small alternator on an outboard and not a deisel with 100+ Amp alternator.  The controllers for those beasts are different.  They cut the alternator power by reducing the alternator stator winding voltage (acutally they usually pulse the voltage, reducing the duty cycle, but I digress) as the battery state of charge goes up.  These are called solid state voltage regulators rather than charge controllers.

Curtis