For 23 owners flying asymmetrics....

[brackish]

...where have you mounted your sheet blocks?   

[Shawn]

.... and how did you rig everything else too?

My current plan is just to add a small block to the ring at the forward edge of the masthead with a line running up the mast, through the block and forward to the bowsprint with a quick release on that end This will the halyard for the spinnaker sleeve.

Since I still have a hanked on jib I was going to use its halyard as the halyard for the spinnaker itself and its downhaul for the sleeve downhaul. The sheets would run outside of all rigging (including forestay) to the aft cleats.

How does everyone attach the tack to the boat... directly to where the jib connects or with a short line to raise the tack up a bit?

Make sense? Anything else I'm missing?

Thanks,

Shawn

[Craig Weis]

Yes a block is needed at the masthead. I have enclosed a picture of my block in the CP-19 posts under "Trailer Modifications" second from the bottom.

No way would I use the same halyard from/for the head sail though. Rig a second halyard just for the spinnaker.
If your fitting a sleeve it comes with it's own attachment for both the spinnaker and the spinnaker halyard plus a 2-way control line to slip on and slip off the spinnaker.

As to a tac for the spinnaker I use a big old thick black rubber 6" long 'bungee' flat rubber with out the steel hooks. I use the hook holes and an anchor bend knot and tie the rubber to the very tip of my bow pulpit. The other end I anchor bend tie on a Q/D.
I appreciate the shock absorbing give for this tac using the rubber. Easier on the boat/sail/and skipper.

skip.

[brackish]

.... and how did you rig everything else too?

My current plan is just to add a small block to the ring at the forward edge of the masthead with a line running up the mast, through the block and forward to the bowsprint with a quick release on that end This will the halyard for the spinnaker sleeve.

Since I still have a hanked on jib I was going to use its halyard as the halyard for the spinnaker itself and its downhaul for the sleeve downhaul. The sheets would run outside of all rigging (including forestay) to the aft cleats.

How does everyone attach the tack to the boat... directly to where the jib connects or with a short line to raise the tack up a bit?

Make sense? Anything else I'm missing?

Thanks,

Shawn

Now I'm a little confused, Shawn.  I thought the sleeve had a short pendant inside where the head of the sail was attached and you used only one halyard to get the whole thing up.  Or maybe I'm misunderstanding your comment.

You should have a tack line, best to rig it adjustable so that you can bring the tack down for closer reaching and let it up, above the bow pulpit as you come around approaching a broad reach to run.  Or so I've been told.  I'm also told that a tack collar helps, that is a collar from the tack of the sail around your forestay or furled headsail.  They can be purchased or made.

I'm just not sure where the sheet blocks should go.  Is the far back of the track still too for forward.  or should I rig something to the stern cleats.  I'm sure it depends on the length of the foot of the sail. 

I've one on order, need to work out the details.

[Shawn]

"  I thought the sleeve had a short pendant inside where the head of the sail was attached and you used only one halyard to get the whole thing up.  Or maybe I'm misunderstanding your comment."

It might, I don't have the sleeve yet as I just bought a used setup so I was just going on an assumption on how it is rigged. If it has the pendant inside that makes things even easier. (time passes) Just checked ATNs page at:

http://www.atninc.com/sleeve_en.php

And it does have control lines built in and can be seen in action in the video there, that is slick!

"I'm just not sure where the sheet blocks should go.  Is the far back of the track still too for forward.  or should I rig something to the stern cleats. "

On my Scot the it had internal spinnaker lines. The blocks were at the far back corners of the boats then run inside of the boat to be able to have the lines come out at the seats with cleating there. However it also had hooks on the outsides of the shrouds at the deck which you could use to hold the spinnaker lines down sooner. The Scot used a symetrical spinnaker with a pole and up/down hauls for it so it flies a bit differently.

Shawn

[Shawn]

"I don't think I would use the halyard for the head sail though. That would pull the head sail way up past it's usual tac on the deck."

I'm not sure what you mean here? I meant I would use the existing halyard for the spinnaker, not a new halyard (like you have rigged) for the jib.

"If your fitting a sleeve it comes with it's own 2-way control lines to slip on and slip off the spinnaker."

Thanks, looks like a great way to make the spinnaker easier to deal with.

"I use an anchor bend knot and tie the rubber to the very tip of my bow pulpit. The other end I anchor bend tie on a Q/D. "

Do you tie that to the hoop above the anchor roller?

Thanks,

Shawn

[Craig Weis]

"I use an anchor bend knot and tie the rubber to the very tip of my bow pulpit.
The other end I anchor bend tie on a Q/D. Do you tie that to the hoop above the anchor roller?"

Nope. The tac for the spinnaker is tied to the bow pulpit. Not the hoop on the anchor roller. So that puts the spinnaker tac about 28 inches above the deck. Sheet for the spinnaker is on the stern cleat. Note my radar reflector on starboard spreader. With a little more wind I might try to unfurl the head sail too. LOL!!

Remember, put the cursor on the picture and you can hold down the control key and tap the + key to make this image larger. Control - to make it smaller.



skip.

[LConrad]

I tried to set mine up similar to Harken's recommendation on page 12 of their online catalog.  http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/0a05c1a8#/1f45c228/12   I did it like the third picture down the left side.  Since the Assymetrical load is not too large, I attached the ratchet blocks to the back corner rail posts. I also installed two cam cleats on the splash rail.  The sheet runs through the ratchet block and lands on the cleat. It seems to work pretty well although keeping the lines up along the rail while not flying the asymmertic is a bit of a problem.

[Shawn]

My new (to me) Airforce Asymetrical arrived today. Claims to have only been used twice and that certainly looks possible. The sleeve setup will make flying the spinnaker much easier.

The plan is to install Harken 091s (blocks with built in cam cleats) on pad eyes on the rear corners to control the lines I will also add a block to the top of the mast for a separate halyard for the spinnaker. Looking forward to giving this a try.

Shawn

[Craig Weis]

"installed two cam cleats on the splash rail"
OH, say it ain't so!

Brack, I don't do any sheet blocks for the spinnaker sheet, simply thread the sheets through the raised up center section of the stern cleats and tie a figure 8 stopper knot at the end so I don't loose it over the side and have a floppy spinnaker trying to turn inside out. The unused sheet on either side is long enough to go from tac to stern cleat. LOL.

That means additional holes in my boat. I can't do that.
It's extremely agonizing and takes days of thought before I drill or sabersaw a hole in the boat. I didn't even like the extra deck organizer and three gang rope clutch I put on the starboard side that matches the old antiquated hardware original to the hull #588.

skip.

[brackish]

Skip, it's only a couple of holes.   I think, because of the location, won't matter and the approach is organized.

I'm going to start with a more conservative approach until I get a feel for this thing.  Two wide D shackles attached to the stern cleats with full swivel blocks, sheets led forward from there to the sheet winches and cam cleats. Nothing permanent.  Although I fully intend to do the same thing you did with regard to the deck organizers and blocks on the starboard side to handle the Spin Haylard and the adjustable tack line.  That in the spirit of single handling accommodation.  Will do that or not after I get a feel for the thing. 

Wish I didn't have to drop that mast to put the Spin Halyard block on.  It'll be up and down twice in about a month, second time for a road trip.

My sails should be here in a couple of weeks.  Can't wait to try them out.