Water In Cabin

[Schwartz16]

I just bought a 1977 CP16 that has been sitting for a few years and has collected water in the cabin. The problem is that the water is underneath a translucent epoxy-like coating that appears to be a floor pan between the berths. Is this pan supposed to be there and should it be adhered to the hull to prevent water from getting underneath it? Any suggestions on getting this dried out?

Thanks,
Rich

[adifferentdrummer]

I just bought a 1977 CP16 that has been sitting for a few years and has collected water in the cabin. The problem is that the water is underneath a translucent epoxy-like coating that appears to be a floor pan between the berths. Is this pan supposed to be there and should it be adhered to the hull to prevent water from getting underneath it? Any suggestions on getting this dried out?

Thanks,
Rich

Rich,

Congratulations on owning one of the best micro-cruisers ever built!

This water in the cabin thing has been a problem for me, too, and I've figured out a few things about it.

First, if you can manage it, see if you can wiggle your way down one of the berths (head first) and find a small opening at the aft end of that floor pan on the centerline of the boat. Take some sort of a probe with you like a screw driver, or better yet, something like a screw driver but with a little bit of a crook or hook at the end of it. Stick it up into that opening and rake out any debris that might be clogging it up. If you are a big guy, or are the least bit claustrophobic,  forget it. I'm only 140 lbs and it was a scary tight fit for me.

Next, there is another hole (or should be) in the bottom of the semi-bulkhead that separates the cabin-berth area from the stern lazarette area. You can reach it from outside the boat, through the lazarette hatch. Make sure that it is clear of any obstructions.

Now, raise the tongue of the trailer as high as you can and prop it up with a board. You should be able to raise it about chest or shoulder high, until the back of the trailer touches the ground. Make sure your rudder blade is raised first, and everything else back there is clear. You may have to recruit some assistance for this. I can do it by my self, but just barely, as it's pretty heavy to lift it that high and then shove the board under there, too, so an extra hand would be safer and easier.

Once you get her up there, you should begin to see water accumulating in the lazarette. If you have a drain plug in the bottom of your transom, you can unplug it and let most of the water drain out, or you can bail it out or sponge it out. I would leave it elevated like this for a full day, or maybe longer if the water keeps coming out.

I've had to do this to mine several times now. I'm not sure where the water comes from; how it gets under there; I'm still investigating. I have found several deck leaks that I thought I had fixed leaking rain water in. I have read others reports of water getting into the keel and having to drill a hole at a low point to drain it out, but I haven't done that yet.

Anyway, this is what I've found to work for me, so far. If I gain any more understanding of this problem, I will be sure to post it. In the mean time, I hope this will help with the problem you are experiencing. Let us know how it turns out.

Best of luck,
Milt

[nies]

Rich, my 1978 CP 16,#650, has always leaked around the cowl vent in the fore deck. Have tried everything but removal and reseating, that's next. Have someone spray a hose on the boat with you inside and you will find any leaks. The simple solution is to put a small bucket(also useful for other needs when under way)  under the cowl vent and empty as needed, this has been my answer. You got me thinking again, not and easy task, think I will take vent out and reseal / reinstall .............Phil

[Craig Weis]

The fiberglass matt impregnated resins are clear until painted grey. I can see daylight through my hull from time to time. Just keep that peeled off grey out of the bilge so it can not be sucked up into any pumps.

So anyway water accumulation is normally handled back on the dock with my wet dry shop vac and a few buddies all on one side. Open up everything and let her sit in the sun and dry out. I have repainted my grey several times down below. And as tubby as I am I can skinny astern till my head rest against the transom. I'll never poke a un-Factory hole in the hull or cabin top or cockpit sole 'TO LET THE WATER OUT' because I feel it's just a hole to let the water in.
Makes sense to me.

skip.

[nies]

Skip, very good advice......Phil

[adifferentdrummer]

Skip, I think you misunderstood my post. I didn't suggest poking a hole in the hull or anywhere else on the boat. My recommendation was to clean out the already existent drain holes which allow accumulated water to drain to the back of the boat when the boat is tipped up on it's trailer. These drain holes are small and easily fouled with that (as you mentioned) peeled off grey paint and other debris.

I should have asked Rich if his boat was in the water or on it's trailer before I posted. My recommendation was for a CP16 on it's trailer. Once the factory drain holes are clear of obstructions and the tongue of the trailer is raised to tip the boat back, any water in the boat will flow aft and collect in the lazarette where it can be easily removed.

Rich, I neglected to answer your question, "Is this pan supposed to be there and should it be adhered to the hull to prevent water from getting underneath it?" Yes, it is supposed to be there, and no (at least on mine), it is not really adhered to the hull, but just sort of lays on top of the concrete ballast of the keel, in between the berths. It is there to catch any drips or leaks that get into the cabin, but it can fail over time and allow water to get underneath. Check it as best you can to make sure it is intact. Also, check your keel carefully all the way around on the outside of the boat to make sure there are no cracks or other damage that could allow water to get in. If water becomes trapped in the keel, it can cause damage when it freezes.

Get all the water out of the boat that you can, as I described above. Cover it to keep rain water from getting in, keep it as well ventilated as possible with a fan or dehumidifier inside, and let her dry out real good. Find (as Phil described) and seal all deck leaks. Check the rub-rail for leaks. Check the bow-eye, and any other place on the boat that might be a potential leak point, and check the keel.

Keep us posted on your progress.

Milt

[Schwartz16]

Thanks for the advice guys. Nice to know that there's a helpful group like this!

The first thing that I did when I saw the water was to tip the trailer hoping that the water would run to the rear where I could towel it out. However, very little water drained back, so I assumed that there was a bulkhead that separated the front from the rear. I'm glad to hear that there should be drain holes, but I'm 6'2" and almost 220 lbs, so crawling back to clear them may not be in the cards. However, I can probably send my 11 year old son back in there (fringe benefit of fatherhood!).

Rich

[Radicalcy]

Rich,
That pan is simply a cover for the concrete ballast. It can be easily removed. Use a sharp knife, or chisel and run it along the folded edge of the pan. It may take a couple of runs along the length, but it will come right out. You can replace it later with new glass and epoxy if you reallly want to.
Larry Wilson
Richmond,Va.

[Radicalcy]

Rich
You also want to open the inspection hatch just ahead of the mast support, and check for water. If it's wet in  there, you may want to check beneath  the plywood in the forepeak and in the cabin beneath the sleep platforms. There is flotation foam there and it may have moisture issues.
You're welcome to email me to discuss any issues that you run into. I've been through most of them with my CP16. Radicalcyatyahoodotcom.
Larry Wilson
Richmond,Va.

[Schwartz16]

Thanks Larry. I'll check the forward area as you suggest. Problem is that we have been substantially below freezing for the past few days, so I'll have to wait for warmer weather. I was thinking about separating the top from the hull in the spring and really going over the cabin. We'll see if I am ambitious enough when the time comes. I think that's the only way to make it as nice as yours!

Rich