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Started by dserrell, April 30, 2009, 10:36:46 AM

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dserrell

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edbuchanan

Hi David,

The solution I have been using on my 23 is a flexible 11 Watt panel mounted on our sea hatch by bungees.  While it can't replace the Ampere-hour loss from a 24 hour run with lights, etc., it does make the daytime electrical usage break-even, i.e. it produces more current than our VHF and a few accessories will use.   Your existing battery with a new solar panel should at least give you a longer trip.

If you get a panel that is not too large for a given battery, you do not need a charge regulator.

Ernie (Molly 23/II, 1984)

Potcake boy

Hey Dave,
I sail a 19 and wanted her set up for cruising without too much complication.  First I chose a group 27 (94 ah) AGM battery, it fits the battery mount area.  Next I changed out all my lighting to LED - inside and out.  For the interior lighting, I have two red LEDs - one above each bunk that come on when the cabin light switch is turned on.  At the same time, the circuit for the dome light is energized and it has a a switch that can be selected red or white light.  I installed a rectifier on my engine which puts out 6 amps and I have a Sunsei medium sized solar mounted on the stern rail above the outboard.  The rectifier has a built in charge control, and I use the Sunsei charge controller for the solar panel.  So far I've not had a problem with week long cruises.  I like the fact that the solar panel keeps the battery fully charged when the boat is inactive, it is good for battery life. 

I use the depth finder always and autopilot almost continuously while cruising alone, and occasionally turn on the GPS and VHF radio.  I do not have a stereo connected to the ships power system.  My battery seems to stay at 12.5 volts or better and my rectifier can put a quick charge if needed.  AGM batteries take a charge quicker, and I keep a full charge of about 13.4 volts.

I rewired my electric system with a proper bus and fuses.  All the power consumption goes through a basic battery switch, and the charging wiring goes straight to the battery terminals so charging takes place even if the battery switch is off.

So far, everything has worked fine.

I you have big power needs, you might look at one of those small portable generators.

Ron
Ron
Pilot House 23 - GladRags
Punta Gorda Florida

A mouse around the house - but much hotter on the water

kchunk

Howdy Dave. I have one vote for small generator.

I was thinking of a solution much like you are. No room for a solar (a lot of space for a little power) and forget a wind generator. A small solar charger is great to keep a battery topped off while on a mooring or at dock, but when you need a battery charged you need AMPS!

On my 23, I have  2 batteries, 1 starting and 1 deep cycle (if I had to do it again, I'd just get 2 deep cycle). I've found that I can get 2 days out on my boat before needing a recharge. That's using stereo, iPod, VHF, chart plotter, old fashioned incandescent interior lights, anchor lights, nav lights, etc. till my heart's content and without much regard for saving power. When the battery runs low, fire up the Honda generator and plug in the charger. The generator is surprisingly quiet and sips fuel.

The one I have is the 1000W EU1000i seen below:



It's small and lightweight. When sailing I leave it in the cockpit or even put it down below (the fuel tank is small and the vent in the fuel cap is closable so there's not even a hint of fuel smell (vapor) down below. When running it, I lash it to the foredeck (while it's quiet, you certainly know it there). It has a 8A 12V output for battery charging, but I'd rather use my battery charger plugged into the 115V AC outlet, it's one of those fancy digital chargers and at 25A, it's much faster. Another benefit of the generator, it's not tied to the boat. If you're not going to need it, leave it at home. If you're going ashore camping, take it along. Power outage at home, fire up the generator.

New, the Honda EU1000i is around $800 but they can be found used for $400-600.

--Greg