Com-Pac 16 innards reveiled with rebuild.

[Craig Weis]

http://www.plasticclassicforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=2558&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight

http://www.plasticclassicforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=2969&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=compac

These came from the Yahoo site which I can only access through an e-mail.
Pictures are of r&r deck and r&r plywood formers, ect. Pretty interesting.
skip.

[mrb]

Great sites, should be an inspiration to those thinking of rebuilding their boats.

melvin

[Paul]

I can say with certain confidence that the Plastic Classic forum has an awesome amount of knowledge.  Great contributors and support.  I would really like to know how the other CP-16 turned out.  One curiosity I have:  how did he get that deck back on?  I think he cut the hull/deck joint flange off the boat entirely, IIRC.  He'd have to glass it back on, instead of 5200 and screws like it was originally made.  But, WOW!!  What access to the interior!!  Makes life a lot easier working inside the boat.

One thing I've learned:  You'd better LOVE the labor!  In my case, there's a whole lot of it!

[Craig Weis]

I'm thinking that the deck and hull fit was cut using a Milwaukee SawsAll and a half dozen blades. Fiberglass really dulls the tooling quickly, at least at Palmer Johnson Yachts it does.

Anyway the cut would be 1.5 mm wide and given enough time and being careful a perfect cut can be made without appreciable damage to the hull or deck.

I cut the deck off of a 16 foot Senior Dolphin by Sullivan sailing boats, more like a Sunfish with success. It was easy. Can you believe that this boat company used non-closed cell foam, and boy does that junqu`e soak up water!! Boat weighed a ton from water through a tiny crack in the hull. No way to get rid of the foam and water 'cept cut her. Or put her in a 190 deg F. oven for a week LOL.

On reassembly the same holes for the rivets can be reused with a good squish of 3-M 5200 slow set and new aluminum rivets used. I used a few #8 screws and nuts to align the holes first before riveting. Use the heaviest walled rivets that can be pushed into the holes.

With 3-M 5200 slow set you'll easily have a day to set the rivets. As an option the seam could be sealed up again with glass matt epoxy resign [West System]. This would make the seam thicker and the rubber surround harder to affix.
skip.