Greetings

[David V.]

Hi All,

I've been reading these posts for several years now and have gotten many great ideas from all of you. Thank you. However, I haven't taken the time to figure out how to post a message.

It's cloudy, cold and I don't feel like painting the bathroom right now, so lets give it a try.

I have owned several sailboats over the last 8 years and have spent far more time renovating them than sailing them. I still have  much to learn about sailing. I started with a Javlin, then a CP16 and now have a CP19. I finished the CP16 and sold it to fund the CP19. There are pictures of it in the Sailing Texas Photo Gallery, Com-Pac, Com-Pac 16, 1979, Albany, NY. I thought it came out well.

Now I'm working on the CP19. The trailer is completely redone now, new everything, bunk boards, tires, axle, including added brakes, LED lights, even the bolts are grade 8. Now it's time to work on the boat. The CP16 only took about 15 min. to rig and I was disappointed to realize how much longer the CP19 takes me. So I've been working on speeding that process up. With the length of upstate New York winters, I have plenty of time to think. So I have made a few simple alterations that seem to have knocked off about 10 - 15 min. on the rigging time and that has inspired me to go for it and see if I can't compete with the Com-Pac's Mastendr system. I'll should know by this summer.

Anyway, thanks for all the help and the valuable insights and if anyone is interested I'll post my progress, now that I know how.

David

[Craig Weis]

Good morning. skip here. Trying to rig a 19 as fast as anything with a mast tender system is going to be tough. Speed isn't everything. "We are not machines you know." I think some of the early 19's had an extra set of shrouds going down to the chainplates, mine does not.
I sawed off the keel bunk boards on my trailer as she doesn't bounce on the trailer and they are a pain when loading the boat. Do more harm then good. Usually park the keel on top of the boards and sheer them off.  So I got rid of them. She will sit on the trailer and on her keel even with the hull bunk boards lowered on both side. Although I do tie the boat to the trailer, bothsides. Just for safety sake. And I don't lower the hull bunks when the wind is up. Speaking of wind. The wind is up now...I hate to waste wind!
Kind of a wintry day in Sturgeon Bay as well.

[kickingbug1]

     i read an article maybe on the carolina boat company site about removing the backstay on a 19 and moving the shrouds and chainplates aft to simplify rigging. someone else here might have more info on this. the rigging time and added weight at the ramp keeps me in a cp16. good luck let us know what happens

[Craig Weis]

Just me, but I am sure that I don't want to remove my back stay. Nor is there any desire to move the chainplates.

I was wondering the current chainplate location sits on a plywood hard point from the factory that is glassed in and sealed up. Why do I want to drill into unchartered territory with a new chainplate location? And where would I move it to? A new location would mean a new shroud length that may not be taken or given up by the turnbuckle.

Speaking of turnbuckles.
On my boat two chainplate tangs provide a home for each turnbuckle landing. A sailor buddy on his 19, Peanut Butter, uses one pin for two turn buckles and I can see that the angles of the tunbuckles appear to be fighting each other, while the two separate pins for each turnbuckle on Comfort & Joy are much more 'relaxed'...less strain = more tolerance when things get rough.

And when I set my tensition I laid on the vee birth and sighted up the mast. I could see the uneven tention that was placed on the mast by the shrouds. The mast is either 'kinked' to the port or starboard side until readjusted.

So I ask the question, with no back stay wouldn't the top-o-mast be pulled forward by the head stay? which is under considerable tention from the head sail. This need to be taught to keep the fuler happy on my boat.

Factoid: Did you know that the 'hard points' for weapons and leading edge on the on the wing of a F-4 Phantom fighter is 1-1/4" thick aluminum? Rolled?? How do you roll that with out cracking the material??

[don l]

David wrote "have spent far more time renovating them than sailing them"

Thanks for that comment,  our CP16 sits in the backyard, just love to fool and replace things on her, as money permits.   I tell the family, hey,  I love this boat, and she will be sailing a lot longer than I will, so I want her nice.  Boat's are money pits, I am told.  However, this 16 is a small pit.  She was in great shape when I got her, I will keep adding to that Com-pac beauty.

[David V.]

I won't mess with the standing rigging. I'm not a PE, but I have enough engineering in my back ground to know not to mess with rearranging the rigging without a thorough study of the forces involved and how they would change by relocating the rigging. However, that said, there are plenty of simple changes that make a difference. CS Johnson makes a Quick Release Lever (14-211) that will substitute for the forestay turnbuckle. With a snap hook, shackle and quick release lever, attaching the forestay is a snap and flip operation. Very quick. I found I was taking a lot of time with the side shrouds, coiling - uncoiling tying down. Two short leads tied off the bow rail with a carabiners attached to each allow me to run the shrouds forward when the mast is down and simply un-clip the shrouds when it is time to step the mast. Again quick. The mast itself now sits in a bow and stern bracket for travel and and quickly un-clips for raising. 

I don't get to sail nearly as often as I would like to, and the trip to water is an hour plus. If I can shorten the rigging time to 10 - 15 min, then the afternoon sail becomes a possibility with this boat. I'm working on it. Next comes the sails.