Holding tanks and heads

[bmiller]

My 1986 has a porta potti, wife is insisting we install a marine head with holding tank. I don't disagree. Does anybody have photos of the tank installation and associated plumbing? I'm particularly interested to see how a flat surface is built to accommodate the tank. What capacity are the stock tanks?
Any photos of the head installation would also be very useful.
Thanks, Bill

[jimyoung]

Bill,

I have not forgotten about your request and should be able to take some photos of the head area on Miss B. this weekend.  It is totally gutted right now but should give you some idea where the holes will need to be drilled for supply and discharge lines.  I can also get you some shots of the holding tank as well.

Scheduled re-assembly of the head is for next month so it may be a little late if you are doing the job now but will keep you informed and have more pics if needed.

Jim

[bmiller]

Thank you Jim.
We will use the porta potti until the boat is hauled this fall. My biggest issue is building a flat level platform for the holding tank. There are three square surfaces I can start with to build the platform. Then probably use a nine gallon tank to keep it as light as possible and not take up too much space. The boat already has a throuh hull for discharge and a deck pump out. I will need to drill a fresh water intake, or tee off the raw water engine line, with check valves and additional shut offs. I'm a little leery about tee-ing off the raw water intake but then again I'm not drilling a hole in the hull.
What head unit are you using? Is the platform in the head sturdy enough to bolt to or did you have to back it up? If so access must be a bitch.

Bill

[Craig Weis]

A guy who has a Mariner 36 built and installed the head/holding tank and he can be reached at our USPS Door County site. Send him an E-Mail. His name is Marcuss. skip.

[spaul]

I have a '92 27/2 that came with installed head. I'd be glad to send you photo's of my installation so you can see where our boats construction may or may not differ. I do have a dedicated thru hull for the head water supply. If you sail in American waters most of the time I'd use the thru hull for discharge as the water take up since you aren't allowed to dump except off shore anyway. Just don't plumb it for discharge other than pumped out of the tank through a pump fitting. If you decide to sail offshore you can always take a discharge pump with you and empty it that way.
I have an aluminum 12 gal tank bolted to the rear head bulkhead. It does not rest on the hull bottom. I do believe I've seen poly tanks molded with a curve that would allow for more capacity in the same space.  The aluminum was put in by the po and I will likely need to replace it someday as it will be eaten up and leak sooner or later, but I now use it as a step down into the laz for engine maintenance or cleaning or packing gland work.

Steve

[jimyoung]

Bill,

Here is one of Miss B. with all removed.  I will get some of the other side of the bulkhead showing the holding tank and plumbing for it this weekend.  Sorry I am so slow in this but work has been slamming me and am trying to get the boat back together for a six week sailing adventure in November.



Hope this helps some,  it does show the supply and discharge lines going out and the mounting holes

Jim

[bmiller]

Thanks for all the info. So the tank is bolted to the bulkhead? Are they through bolted?  Are heads available with the pump handle on the right or left? What is a good reliable head? Seems any tank available would need the fittings relocated since they are mostly horizontal. Although that would free up more locker space. This will be done this year before we go to California. Photos and details to follow.

[spaul]

BMiller,
Yes the tanks are thru bolted to the bulkhead with no problem, I recommend that in fact. You asked about brands of head units. I have a Groco HF manual tht works just fine, in fact I recommend a manual pump so you never have to worry about using the head if the power goes down or the pump fails.
Groco is good, I have used the Jabsco and it is equivalent in my opinion, the Wilcox Critenden looks similar to the other two.
In fact, I rebuilt my Groco last summer and at the price of a new Jabsco may just replace the whole damned thing next time since the kit is almost as much as a new head. Most of the manual heads can be configured right or left hand but if you and or the Admiral are right handed I'd install it that way for an easier pump. I believe right handed will fit better in your compac anyway.
Photos soon I hope.
Steve Paul

[bmiller]

What are the dimensions of the tanks mounted to the bulkhead. Any tank I get will require a relocation kit for the fittings. A 9 gallon tank is 17X14X10 one of the fittings can be used for the intake on to. Will need a fitting on the new bottom for the discharge.

[spaul]

Bmiller,
Two photo's, one of the head with right side pump and also the tank supporting bolts showing on the bulkhead.
Other photo to follow.

Steve

Well Bill, I think it's Bill, my photo's are too large. Send me a private mail and I'll forward two photo's for you.

Steve

[Al Parker]

Hi Bill et al,
  I'm late, again, at getting in on this.  But here's an alternative to a "conventional" marine head with separate holding tank.  Probably not great for long trips where you can't dump the tank, as it's small, but -- .   Dometic Corp. makes a "Sealand Marine Toilet" model 711-M28.  The holding tank is right below the "pottie", almost like a portapot, with a pretty good valve separating the 2.  The tank has 9.5 gal. capacity, it uses 1 Qt./flush avg, has discharge and vent fittings, total wt 41 lbs, so it's not a lightweight/cheapie solution, and bolts in permanently.  We got one with the new small power boat we just bought (C-Dory 25) and with limited use so far, it seems an easy, good, solution.  Wife spotted what looks like it in the West Marine catalog the other nite.  My info above was from the manual.  try www.DometicSanitaion.com 
good luck and good sailing,
Al & Pat
CP-27 Knot Home II

[bmiller]

I have all the parts, head, tank, macerator, y valve, hose and clamps. Now just a day to work and it'll be done.

[bmiller]

It's done.
Here is the throne. I have a tendency to over engineer things. Built a stainless steel plate with studs welded from the bottom, that plate was then screwed to the floor of the head. Mainly because access to the underside is very limited, this made installation simple and should never wiggle loose.


The old plumbing with manual pump.


New plumbing, yes the old fresh water lines are next and I need a couple 1 inch hose clamps. Notice the towell stuffed into the inaccessable space under the head floor, lots of parts disappeared there. Also notice the momentary contact switch near the macerator, that way you have to be right by the pump to activate it.


Can't really see the tank mount but it's a steel angle on the bottom with a custom fabricated bracket chafe protected by old fire hose.


For fresh water I used a brass tee after the engine raw water intake. I know some will question that but there is also a shut off and check valve. Plus the boat was in the water making installing a thru hull problematic.

All in all it was pretty simple except for dealing with the stiff hose. Had to route things a little different then I thought. Very glad I pumped lots of fresh water first to check for leaks. A few clamps had to be tightened, glad there was nothing nasty in there.