Shaft log was lag bolted

[RileyBoo]

You just never know what previous owners or their mechanics have done until you pull things apart.

I have my 27 hauled for bottom paint and am addressing other common issues such as cutlass bearing, shaft seal, etc.

I have read all of the posts on here about the shaft log and how hard it is to get to the dreaded bottom bolt.  Just before I hauled, I took a close look at the inside aft end of the shaft log with a light, and could see that the top "bolt" had no nut, and had course threads.  It obviously wasn't a bolt but a lag screw.  Oooh, that's not good.  Well, good for removal but that's about it.

The lag bolts had fender washers under them and they backed out really easily (no surprise).  I took a putty knife and with fairly little pressure was able to break the bond on whatever was used to adhere/seal the log (it sure wasn't 5200).

Plus, the shaft log holes had been countersunk (not sure why since it had hex head bolts and washers, perhaps at one time it had countersunk head screws?), and the countersink literally goes all the way to the inside edge of the flange actually leaving a sharp edge on the bolt hole.  Wow, just wow!

On the other end of the log there was significant corrosion such that the metal was pitted (chunks missing) which isn't good for sealing the hose for either a stuffing box or dripless hose.  Mine has the PSS dripless and the bellows was in good shape but seemed at bit oversized for the shaft log. With the clamps off, the bellows just fell off and at rest actually had a gap between it and the log.  It's a rubber compound...seemed like it would have been better to be slightly undersize rather than a loose fit.  Seemed to be a bit of corrosion on the PSS carbon seal (on the bevel, not the face). I had noticed a black streak on the boat floor where it appears there is a bit of water getting by the carbon to SS seal, but I read you can pull a rag between the mating surfaces to clean them occasionally.  I wasn't doing that because I didn't know the condition of the bellows so I wasn't about to disturb it.

My plan is to install a new shaft log and bolt it in properly and do like most on here have done and put the nuts on the outside which makes sense.

Some people have said they used 5200 to adhere/seal but I was wondering if 4200 would work since this cutlass bearing can be a PITA to replace and removing the shaft log can make the process much easier.

Another issue I found is almost half a cotter pin hole in the bronze prop shaft end...the cotter pin was in it but not much metal left there.  I'm thinking electrolysis here?  The rest of shaft looks good except corroded, but I'm thinking new shaft so I can have good sealing surface for either a traditional stuffing box or a dripless (whichever I choose to go back with).  I have not checked it for straightness yet, but since I'm going to replace, there is no need.

The shaft coupler was in decent shape (a bit of rust), but if I install a new shaft I'll put on a new split coupler.  I used a coupler removal tool and it came off with little effort which isn't always the case.  Keyway and key in good shape, no distortion.

The rudder had work done on it before I bought the boat and the shaft is slightly bent to aft. I found a soft spot on the lower aft part of the rudder...drilled it out and it is weeping of course.  Also I found a small piece of what appears to be a fiberglass patch in the same area lifting up.  It appears they glassed over bottom paint so no surprise it is lifting.  Also seeing some delam/splitting on the top of the rudder. I'm thinking I may just replace the rudder if one is available because the repairs (I'm not doing the glass work because of time) will probably cost quite a bit relative to the cost of the rudder and I'll still have a bent rudder shaft.  Plus I'll get peace of mind with a new rudder.

Bottom seems good.  Fixing about a dozen blisters.

If you made it this far through this long post, my question was:
 Q. 5200 or 4200 to install the shaft log?
 Q. What are you treating the exposed metal with: barrier coat and bottom paint or is anyone using some of the specialty coatings like Pettit Barnacle Barrier.  I like the idea of the black magic marker for the prop since that is cheap but I'd hate to find out it doesn't work in my water (I'm in FL and get a lot of growth year round).

Cheers y'all!

[RileyBoo]

Today I took the hose and flushed out the shaft "well" and found the remnants of two bolt shafts with washers and nuts where the head had been ground off.  No doubt that there were the bolts that originally held the shaft log in place.

My guess that a yard did this and didn't want to waste time fooling with the bolts, and the lags were the easy and quick way out.

This is why I like to do my own work.

[TopsailB]

The exposed portion of the shaft log on my 1989 CP27 has been barrier coated and painted with bottom paint. It is secured by screws with counter-sunk heads. I believe this to be the factory install on this boat. I use 5200 when joining structural components needing strong adhesion. If there's a good chance the component will need to be removed in the future, 4200 is the go-to. Both are polyurethane, the primary difference being tensile strength.

[deisher6]

Hey RileyBoo:
1) Use 4200

2) The aft end of the shaft log is not that hard to get to with a 18-24 inch extension from Harbor Freight.  Nuts on the outside is a good move though.

3) I personally do not like DSS shaft seals.  The stuffing box on a CP-27 is very accessible.  I used the standard stuffing box with high tech stuffing (can't think of the name).  It was virtually dripless. I checked temperature by touch often.  I would now use an infrared temp gauge also from Harbor Freight. I helped a buddy restaff two standard stuffing boxed on his catamaran in the water using elastic bandages to seal the gap while replacing the stuffing.  This would be tough to do with a DSS torn bellows.  The standard stuffing boxes worked for me on two '86 CP-27's for over 10 years.  I think that it is still working for Windrunner, Jim? 
That being said, I have DSS on our Pacific Seacraft and have kept it because of accessibility.

4) I thought that the rudder on our CP-27 was getting water inside so I replaced it with a new one from Hutchins.  I cut up the old rudder and found it to be VERY solid.  There was pictures of the cut up rudder on this blog under deisher6.  I think that I still have copies if interested.5) Since you are messing with the shaft log and should realign the prop shaft engine coupling, you may want to consider checking/replacing the engine mounts before you align.

6) Windrunner, our last '86 CP-27, had a bronze prop shaft.  It was straight and true, however I had a heck of a time keeping it from backing out of the engine coupling. I replaced the shaft part of the coupling, dimpled the shaft for the set screws, loc-tighted and tightened the heck out of it but it would still eventually back out when the engine was in reverse (2X while docking). I replaced it with a SS shaft around the same time that I replaced engine mounts & etc.  Now thinking about it, the prop shaft was probably not properly aligned allowing the shaft to wiggle enough to eventually back out.

Keep up the maintenance, trust me even old guys can do it on a ComPac...not so much on all sailboats.
regards charlie

[RileyBoo]

Thanks for the input!

I talked to Gerry at Hutchins this morning and he is building me a new shaft log (they just shipped the last one they had in stock...rats).  He said use 5200 on the install but I'm still thinking 4200 would be adequate.

I decided to go back in with a traditional stuffing box and try the PTFE flax.  The one thing I didn't like about the PSS in my 27 was there was very little space between the bellows and the shaft tunnel.  At first I thought the bellows was rubbing the sides but once I got a light down there you could see daylight between the bellows and the hull.  Not much though, less than 1/16".  Too close for my comfort...with a little vibration in the shaft and it could possibly rub. Most PSS installations I've seen the bellows is no where near rubbing anything.

And because the prop end of the shaft was degraded (half a cotter pin hole), I'm going back with a new SS shaft and split coupling. I too had the original bronze shaft and it was ready to be replaced.

The engine mounts look to be in good shape and after I get her back in the water I'll check the alignment.

A new rudder is a 6 week lead time so that is a no-go for this haul-out.  My fiberglass guy will make the necessary repairs on the old rudder and that will have to do for now.  Next bottom paint job I'll plan ahead and pre-order a rudder.

Nice to put new things on the boat and have a new baseline and knowing what is there.

[Cpy23ecl]

My guess is the packing you are referring to is Gore.

https://www.gore.com/products/gore-gfo-fiber

I've used it for my several boats and would never use anything else now.