Reefing system re-do

[Fastdoc98]

As I mentioned in my earlier post I need to replace the stock reefing system as the cleat at the front of the boom won't hold the reefing line and it pulls out with minimal force, so I'm looking at what hardware I need and have some questions about attaching to the boom.  I'm not sure what size cheek block is necessary for this or what kind of loads are generated.  I was looking at the Harken 22mm micro cheek block, but is that too small for this application?  I was also looking at the Schaefer single cheek block on a curved base, but that's much larger at 37mm.  Is that overkill?  I also wasn't sure about which cleat to use at the fore end of the boom.  I was looking at the Ronstan medium fairlead V cleat as I don't think I would want an open V cleat or a cam cleat up there, and I dislike horned cleats.

The other topic that confuses me is attaching this hardware to the boom.  I did some digging and went down the rabbit hole on this subject, and it's all over the place.  Seems everyone has an opinion on what's the correct way to attach to an aluminum spar - you have to use aluminum rivets with lanolin or Tef-Gel, you have to use stainless rivets with lanolin or Tef-Gel, you have to drill and tap and use fine thread screws, no, you need coarse thread screws.  Don't ever use anything other that a bolt with a nut on the back.  It's exhausting.  Do you guys have any insight?

[Fastdoc98]

Anyone?  Bueller?   Bueller?

[slode]

I'm in the same boat as you.  Been living with the factory setup for two seasons now and what I found that makes it livable is you have to have good double braid minimum 1/4" line for the cleats at the front of the boom to hold. The line on the boat when I got her was single braid and just under 1/4" and never held well.  Never did understand why it was different line than the outhaul.  After I changed to 1/4" sta-set it was much better.  Been reefed in some pretty heave stuff and hasn't let go.  If one of your cleats is worn switch the line around to the other one.   I don't know if I'll ever completely change it, you have to go up to the mast to hook in the front cringle anyway, unless I come up with a single line system that doesn't add too much complexity. 

[Fastdoc98]

Thanks for the reply, slode.  I did replace the previous line with brand-new Sta-set as I replaced all the running rigging after I got the boat.  I suppose I could try a different cleat to see if it holds, but I'd like to improve how the sail gets pulled down at the aft end as well.  Are the cleats at the fore end of the boom supposed to be spring-loaded, or are they normally loose and floppy?  Seems they would work better if there was a spring mechanism pulling them closed. 

[slode]

The boom cleats hang loose unless a line is cleated in.  I agree they are not great but they are compact and fit the installation well.  If they were spring loaded you'd never get the line out!  Do you ever have issues with your outhaul line coming loose?  If not I would think you should be able to make the reefing line hold.  You really have to pull down and back hard and keep pressure on while you're letting out until the cleat sets.  Once they are set they take a pretty good tug to release. 

[bruce]

I don't have an Eclipse, but I have installed a small, light block on the leech cringle to make reefing easier. You may find it helpful. The block is a Ronstan Series 20 Orbit Block, RF25109. The soft shackle is 7/64" Dyneema. Breaking loads 1,510 lb. and 1,600 lb. respectively. The block does come with 1/16" lashing, but I preferred a soft shackle.

[Fastdoc98]

Thanks for the tip, Bruce, that's a really innovative solution.  I was looking at your picture and specifically the cheek block on your boom - it looks like a Shaefer Series 3 cheek block to me which is one of the pieces of hardware I was looking at buying to set mine up.  The other idea was a Harken cheek block for wire @ 29mm.  Is that cheek block attached by rivets or screws?  I can't quite tell from the picture.

[bruce]

Yup, the photo isn't good. The cheek block is from Dwyer, who supplies all of Com-Pac spars, AFAIK. I haven't changed it. It came with the boat, circa 2010, those are #10 self-tappers. The blocks are good up to 5/16" line. Don't recall the manufacturer right now, doesn't look like Shaefer Series 3 to me, certainly by price.
https://www.dwyermast.com/searchResultItem.asp?ItemID=117

As long as your cheek block is good for 1/4", I wouldn't worry about it. Just bare your basic Delrin sheave, nothing fancy, or particularly high load. Not sure of what you have, but upgrading it won't make much of a difference, IMHO.

[Fastdoc98]

It appears to be a Ronstan Series 29 utility cheek block with curved base.  The stock system on the Eclipse consists of a sheave at the aft end of the boom and the reefing line is tied off on the boom, goes up through the cringle, down to the sheave and then forward to a fairly floppy cleat at the mast end of the boom.  The forward cleat doesn't like to hold the line and it slips out, so I'm thinking about adding a different system by installing a new eye strap, a cheek block, and then a cleat forward.  One crazy thought I had is tying a simple knot in the line where it would be at the cleat when reefed as I'm sure the knot in the line would act like a stopper to that cleat at the mast end of the boom.  Just give it something get some purchase on.

[Vectordirector]

Hi Doc,

I, like many here, had fits with the reefing system on the Eclipse.  I'll second what Slode said.  Replace the crappy black line with 1/4" sta-set.  That helped a bit.  What really helped was to thoroughly clean the jaws at the mast end of the boom and then lube it often with sail-kote or similar.  Those jaws were really hard to open until I did that, then they held well on the sta-set.  Helps to hold the outhaul better also.


Hope this helps,

Vectordirector