Centerboard line replacement

[alsantini]

It is about time for me to replace my centerboard line.  Have any of you replaced your line?  How is it connected to the board?  I am contemplating doing it in the water.  Thanks  Al

[Vectordirector]

Easy Peasy!  I had my diver to do it when he was here cleaning the bottom.  Other option would be a travel lift if they don't charge you too much.  How long can you hold your breath?  Guys were talking about doing this a couple of days ago.  Look back in the suncat forum. 

BH

[slode]

That task is on my to do list this summer as well.  From what the Suncat owners have all talked about it sounds pretty doable if you have a pair of goggles and can hold your breath for a minute plus.  I "practiced" a bit last season but didn't have my new line yet.  I think I have the plan worked out. 

1. find a spot with clear water that's 6-7' deep on a calm day and anchor the bow and stern.
2. attach a thin snake line to the cockpit end of the line
3. drop the centerboard to around 1/2 way
4. swim down, cut line from board, and pull snake line through
5. come back up and attach new centerboard line to water side of snake line, let that drop back into the water.
6. pull new line through into cockpit
7. Swim back down and tie off end of line to centerboard.

Of all the knots I've heard people using for this I think a buntline hitch sounds like the best option.  It's easy to tie, pulls up tight, and doesn't come loose in this type of use. 

I've also heard people dropping the centerboard in 3-4' of water and letting it rest on the bottom.  If I can find a calm enough spot to do that it sounds like an okay idea.  But if a powerboat flies by I'd be concerned of the centerboard stuck on the bottom while the boat is rocking above.

Now I just have to wait for the water to warm up. 

[Andre]

That should work.  I actually used a straightened wire coat hanger which I pushed down from the top until it came out the bottom with the old line still  in place.  Then I cut off the old line and pulled  the new line through with the coat hanger.  This was on a PC.  Either way should work fine and you can use wire if the snake line separates.

I'll be doing it myself in a few weeks - my water is about 62 right now - too chilly for me!

Good luck

Andre

[Andre]

Oh and I just noticed in your steps 3 & 4 the CB is 1/2 way down.  It won't stay that way if you cut the line!  So either do it in shallower water or let the CB down all the way.

[Bilge Rat]

has anyone ever succesfuly done this at anchor - treading water underwater with board fully extended and tied a new bowline knot to the centerboard?

[Andre]

I have not, but an extra foot or two of dive depth shouldn't make much difference - I didn't have any underwater handholds even in waist deep water and staying down  is probably the hardest part.  You may want to practice just tying some knots while swimming a few feet underwater off your boat to see if it's feasible for you.  If you're not comfortable with it, don't do it.  Safety first.

Andre

[Bilge Rat]

I 've found it pretty easy to swim down and check the line while at anchor. If visual inspection ever indicates need for replacement I will give it a shot. I carry a replacement line in the boat and some stiff wire to do the threading. I like the previous poster's suggestion of using the buntline hitch as opposed to the bowline - seems like a much easier knot to tie in these conditions.

[slode]

I completed my centerboard line replacement this weekend.  I would not recommend attempting this yourself unless you are a pretty decent swimmer who can hold their breath underwater for at least a minute.  But it was not too bad of a task.  And now that I know what not to do, will be much easier next time. 

I made the mistake of setting up in about 4' deep water with sand bottom.  After letting down the board a bit I swam under to cut the line at the knot.   The board dropped and buried its tip in the sand.  I knew it would settle into the sand a bit but thought it would rest with the eye for the rope out so I could tie off the new line in not so deep of water.  But the thing sank to darn near vertical, almost 6" deep in the sand.  It was a struggle to lift it up and I had to rest it on my knee to tie of the new line.  I ended up with a couple small cuts on my knee.  It took two tries, first time I got the new line through the eye but ran out of breath before I could finish the knot.  Second time down I got the buntline hitch tied off with plenty of O2 in the lungs to spare.  It would have been much easier with the board all the way down in a few feet deeper water.

This would have also been much harder in anything but sand or rock bottom.  Mud would not have been good!

Another tip, there really is no need for a snake line or any other method of feeding the new line through.  The passage from the cleat down through the keel is straight and open.  The new line fed easily from the cockpit down through the keel.  I was able to feed the whole length through so there was plenty of slack to grab underneath the boat.  I used 1/4" sta-set.  It was slightly bigger than what was there.  The melted end would not feed through the cleat so I had to heat and re-form it so there was no mushroom.  But after that it fed down through to the keel easily. 

Recommended steps

1.   Anchor in 7-10' deep with clean, clear bottom.
2.   Drop board, untie stopper knot in existing line and pull working end through cleat.
3.   Swim down and cut line form board, pull line out through bottom of keel
4.   From cockpit feed new line through cleat and down through keel, tie stopper knot in end
5.   Swim down and tie off line to centerboard.
6.   From cockpit pull line until you can feel it start to get taut, re-tie stopper knot so you have 6" or so past that point for slack.  Cut of any remaining extra length.

I would definitely recommend a good snorkel mask.  All I had were swim goggles and keeping water out of your nose without breathing out is not easy, and breathing out just shortens the time you can stay under.  At the very least get a nose plug.  A weight belt would have also been nice.  Trying to hold myself under while doing this much work with your hands was a struggle.  Standing/kneeling on the bottom in 8' of water with the end of the board at waist height would have made it much easier.

[carry-on]

With some extra length in the replacement line,( to be trimmed later) seems once the new line is fed through the hole in the center board the hitch could be tied above water level. Then snug the hitch as you swim down to the center board.
I think of the buntline hitch as a clove hitch on the standing line.. should slide easily to the centerboard.

[slode]

carry-on,  That's not a bad idea.  It would take 15' or so of extra line but would reduce the duration of any given dive.  Had I had good access to the board I would have easily completed the task in one dive.  But for someone with limited breath holding capability it's a good alternative.