Garage package issue

[ChasRN]

I have a problem with the garage package that came with my 2013 SunCat. One of the four bolts was missing, which I though would be easy to remedy. When I attempted to fix the problem, I found out why the bolt was missing: the threads are completely stripped.

I then checked the other three bolts and found that they too were stripped, though one may be salvageable. I can get new 3/8 x 16 aluminum bolts, and run a tap in three of the holes to chase out the threads. That's not possible for the fourth however, the one that was missing.

I think there are aluminum helicoils (or at least helicoils for use in aluminum) and if so, that would seem to be the easy option. Another would be to try to tap a slightly larger thread (1/2") in the fourth hole. The less appealing option would be to run two stainless bolts through the holes and secure them with nuts.

Anyone else run into this problem and if so, how did you handle it?

[Renae]

Not to co-opt your thread, but what the heck is a garage package?

[bruce]

It's an option from Com-Pac that allows you to lower the mast stub, and boom gallows, so you can get the boat in a garage. Both are sleeved. Better suited for seasonal storage than routine use.
https://www.gisails.com/boatpictures/suncat/283

It doesn't come up often on this list, or others, and I've never heard of the problem being described. I don't think many boats are equipped with the package. Sounds very fixable, in this case. Photos would help, the photo from GIS seems to show it through bolted. Using aluminum bolts originally seems unlikely. Com-Pac may have seen this failure before.

[bruce]

I found a couple of older posts on the TSBB that might be of interest. Tom Ray worked for GIS, and took the photos for their site. These show the detail much better.
https://forum.trailersailor.com/post.php?id=1216919

It looks like originally the upper mast stub was through bolted. You PO may have decided to try bolting into the mast step directly, with or without properly tapping the holes. Tom explains why we see two weld beads, mast steps are being used back to back. The lower step is welded to the lower mast stub, and the upper step is welded on top of that, leaving the male section of the upper step to attach the upper mast stub. That also explains why the bolt holes are so close to the edge. Here's the mast step from Dwyer, part #DH 2140:
https://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1ID=20&cat1Name=Masts&familyID=38&familyName=DM%2D375+Mast

Here's a second garage package that the owner modified. He was lucky he didn't lose the rig. Tom's point on maintaining shroud tension seems spot on.
https://forum.trailersailor.com/post.php?id=1216920

Personally, I'd probably go with through bolting. If the mast step was tapped properly, to receive 7/16" or 1/2" bolts, then 4 bolts could work. You'd want to check then frequently to see if the bolts were loosening in use. But, there isn't a lot of extra metal to play with on the bottom of the upper mast stub. I'd be afraid the holes could tear out. A better design would use a sleeve that extends further into the two mast stub sections, but they had mast steps already sized to fit into the mast, so that was a simple solution.

[ChasRN]

Thanks Bruce. I tried to attach photos but was unsuccessful, even after changing the file format to reduce their size.

I actually phoned Com Pac yesterday and spoke with Gerry, who confirmed that the factory taps the mast stub for 3/8" - 16 aluminum bolts. The PO appears to have been unfamiliar with how fragile soft metals are and simply forced things.

Gerry suggested that phone back today and speak with Rick Hutchins, who fabs the garage packages for the company. I play to also ask Rick if I should consider simply replacing with a new full mast stub rather than to repair the existing two-piece stub. It may a bit more work to the drill pilot holes in the new stub to reattach everything but it gets rid of the unwanted and unneeded garage package.

Will post the results of the conversation.

[bruce]

Thanks for the update. Com-Pac does provide excellent support.

[ChasRN]

Just got off the phone with Richard at Com Pac. His suggestion was either to tap the mast stub for 1/2" threads or to drill and through-bolt.

Tapping for oversize bolts is advantageous because it allows the hole to be angled toward the center of the spar, putting the head of the bolt roughly parallel to surface of the attach plates which are angled to match the spar. This is probably the most elegant solution.

Using a through bolt will mean drilling a straight hole through the solid center of the mast stub That in turn means the head of both the bolt and nut meet only part of the attach plate. That's not ideal but a great amount of force is not needed to keep everything in place. It may even be possible to fabricate a plastic wedge to spread the through force more evenly.

There was a third option that Richard suggested once he learned that I don't need the garage package. That is to simply remove the mast stub and have someone weld the two pieces together. This is an appealing option in that it is a complete, no-maintenance solution.

I think I'm going to try option 1 first and just ordered 1/2" Al bolts and washers along with a 1/2"-13 bottoming tap from McMaster Carr.

[bruce]

+1. Besides the hassle and expense of pulling the stub, welding, and reinstalling it, it is a $450 option, that might be very attractive if you wanted to sell the boat at some point.

[ChasRN]

I will document the process and post some photos if possible. May be helpful to the one two other Sun Cat owners out there with garage packages . . .

Also want to give a shout out to Com Pac. This is the fourth time I've called them with a question and they have been very helpful each time. I know from personal experience that not all boat builders are so accommodating.

[Jim in TC]

+1 on the comment on Com Pac service. On the one occasion I really needed it, they were able to identify my issue and overnight the necessary parts. Pricey shipping but, hey, back on the water the next day!

[ChasRN]

Update:
While waiting for the package from McMaster-Carr, I decided to try a few things with some hardware I had on hand, specifically a 3/8 ss hex bolt. It started to thread a bit, so I borrowed a 3/8 - 16 taper tap from my neighbor and partially cleaned out one hole (the holes in the stub mast are blind). After I'd cleaned up the tapped hole, the ss bolt threaded normally, as least as far as it could (to where the tap threads made it).

Conclusion:
I think a jumped the gun with needing to drill and re-tap to use larger diameter fasteners. I've ordered some 3/8" Al hex bolts, washers and a 3/8 - 16 bottoming tap. I will try tapping the holes to the bottom and if it looks like that's successful, I'll stick with the 3/8" hardware and keep the 1/2" solution in my back pocket.

[bruce]

I didn't want to bring this up, since you'd already ordered the 1/2" products, but the drill for tapping 7/16" x 14 thread is 3/8".

Check the diameter of the existing holes. For 3/8" it should be 5/16" for tapping. You might get away with more, but the threads will be weak, and could fail as they have previously. For 1/2" x 13 the hole should be 27/64", ideally.

McMaster-Carr does do refunds without jumping through hoops, shipping wouldn't be too bad for little stuff.