Line Diameter

[captbob57]

I am thinking of replacing the lines on my PC. My old halyards and mainsheet seem to be 3/8" and all other lines 3/16" or 7/32" ? Would like to know what Com-Pac uses.

[Andre]

My PC and HC came with 5/16 sheet and halyards so I presume same for yours.  Secondary lines appear to be 3/16 but I'm not sure.  The parts lists on the Com-Pac web site show these sizes as well, but they're just for bulk line.  I wouldn't go up to 3/8 with the original blocks - might be a bit tight.

[bruce]

I agree with Andre, 5/16" for the halyards, I wouldn't move up either. I upgraded the blocks to larger Harken blocks because the stock blocks were tight with 5/16".

The smaller black control lines are 3/16" Samson XLS Solid Color. I've never been able to figure out what the halyards are. From the markings they are from a different manufacturer, don't know why that would be, and that we have green on the port and red on the starboard has always bothered me! The sheet tackle is Garhauer, and they come with a line. You can buy the halyards from Com-Pac. If you do, ask them what they are!

I like this site for measuring diameters and selecting lines. I have 5/16" Yale ULS Yacht Braid and it feels very similar to our halyard. I'm sure the other lines recommended for cruising halyards would feel similar.
http://www.apsltd.com/line-resources

[captbob57]

Thanks Andre and Bruce. I also don't like the starboard halyard being red and the port halyard being green. My mainsheet is blue. I think they are New England Ropes. When I replace the lines I'll switch the red and green lines. Also some 3/8" Harken blocks and fiddle blocks with cam would be sweet!

[bruce]

Bob,

If you're going to spring for new halyards, this is a good time to mention something a lot of PC sailors have done, increase the purchase on the throat halyard to 2:1 to match the peak halyard. Them when you haul on the halyards to raise the sail you can pull both together and the boom stays horizontal as it should. Other catboats I've sailed are set up this way, and I prefer it. All of Com-Pac's cats are like this. It does take a little more line, and you don't really need the extra purchase, but I didn't like having to pull the halyards at a different rate.

To do this, simply add a block attached to the throat gooseneck and terminate the halyard back up the mast. So now the halyard runs from the cleat on the coaming to the cheek block at the base of the mast, up to the cheek block at the masthead, back to the new block on the throat, and back up the mast. Mine is fixed to an eyestrap on the port side of the mast opposite the turning block.

The blocks I upgraded were those on the halyards, Harken 40c. My sheet tackle is stock.

[captbob57]

Thanks Bruce,
Interesting concept with the 2:1. Did you rivet the eye strap to the mast? Any problems with lowering the sail with the 2:1? Another thing I noticed and was very surprised to see is that the 1 bolt holding the shroud and forestay mast tangs together looks like 3/16ths to me. The holes in the tangs will fit a 1/4" bolt no problem. I was thinking replacing the bolt with a 1/4" size. Any thoughts?

[bruce]

Bob,

Actually I had Com-Pac do the 2:1 before I took delivery. They tapped the mast and used #10 machine screws, as I would, I don't like rivets much. I was following advice from the Yahoo PC group when I was setting up my boat in 2011, and, at least among the most vocal members, the 2:1 upgrade was highly recommended. Since other catboats I'd sailed matched the purchase on the halyards, I was easily persuaded. Gerry misunderstood what I wanted to achieve, and gave me a hard time. He thought that I wanted to haul on the halyards together, and have the throat and peak set at the same time. No, I want the gaff to raise parallel to the boom until the throat sets, and then haul on the peak halyard until it sets. They did agree to do it, begrudgingly.

It does add more line, and some more friction, but the runs are straight, the blocks are upgraded to ball bearing Harkens, and I don't feel that dousing the sail is significantly more difficult. I know PC sailors who have the 1:1 that share my experience that we have to tug on the luff a bit to get it down. There's not a lot of weight up there. Some SC sailors install a throat downhaul to help. I've installed a 1/4" bungee on the throat slide, fixed to the boom downhaul horn cleat, that gets stretched as I raise the sail. When I release the halyard it comes down smartly for the first couple of feet. After that it either falls on it's own, or we help it down. Over the years, after other upgrades, I've wondered if the bungee is actually worth it. I've removed it, and after some tests, put it back in. No issues, it just works quietly in the background.

The tang through bolt on my boat is 1/4". Under shear, the 3/16" is probably enough, but I'd go to 1/4".

[captbob57]

Thanks Bruce for the input!