Mainsheet and reefing lines

[rwsandersii]

Hello,
I have a newer (2010) 27 and I'm not exactly happy with the reefing system or mainsheet. 
I'd like to move the mainsheet to a block with a camcleat on the traveler, but I can only find fiddle blocks with 2 blocks and it would require 3 and the camcleat.  Has anyone else considered a set up like this?  Surprisingly I can't find such a block anywhere, but did encounter a picture that showed what I want on a Suncat. 
Also, I'm not sure I like the single line reefing, because I still have to go to the mast for the topping lift and outhaul, so I'm not seeing any benefit to having the single line.  Also, I really think I'd like to have a second reefing point anyway, I did this on my 23 and it made a huge difference (so did getting a decent sail, not a baggy dishrag from JSI that the boat came with).  It is hard to convert though because the new gooseneck doesn't have a hook, just a place for a shackle at the tack of the main.
Has anyone altered either of these systems?
Thanks,
Richard
"Of Beren and Luthien" 2010 Compac 27/3

[slode]

Would a triple block (all blocks on the same axis) work?  Those are available from all the manufactures with cam-cleats off the center block and beckets if needed.  The other option would be to use a single block with cleat for the base and mount a double block (smaller diameter) on top of it

http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?id=4441&taxid=430

This is the one I use on my beach cat mounted on the traveler with an additional triple block (7:1 purchase) and it works well.

[deisher6]

Hey Richard:  It is worth looking at   Garhauer Marine   http://garhauermarine.com/index.cfm for hardware. 

My experience with single line reefing on a IP-27, the reefing line tensions the downhaul and the outhaul at the same time.  If I  understood it correctly there is a line that attaches to the gooseneck that goes up the mast and through the reefing point on the luff.  It then goes back down to the gooseneck, inside the boom to the other end, then up and through the reef point on the leech and back down to fasten around the boom  (with a bowline) under the reef point.  The actual reefing line is attached to the center of this line inside of the boom with at least one block.  When the reefing line is shortened it pulls both: down on the down haul reef point on the luff, and aft and down on the reef point on the leech.  There is a bunch of friction in the system on the IP, but it worked.

Windrunner has just one pretty deep reef.  It is just right to balance the 110 jib or another smaller jib.  I use it much more often now than I did 30 years ago.  I am looking at a new main with two full battens at the top, regular lower battens, a foot rope (or slugs), and one reef point.

It is an older boat, I removed the roller furling in favor of hank-ons, and the only lines in the cockpit are sheets.  It has a bridge deck traveler for the mainsheet.  I like it that way. 

Hope that this helps.  Smooth Sailing.

regards charlie

[redfishnc]

I had single line reefing and the friction was  a bit much and seem to bind often.  I removed the boom internal fitting (nwot sure what it's called) and am using the second line for the second reef I had put in this year.  Still have to go the mast for the horn. Too many lines are showing up especially with the mast mounted jib pole (and I'm questioning the need for it as it is seldom used, a bear to put up and too much for me alone).