finished and installed my fuel locker cover

[brackish]

I like it.  Hinged so no more binding to get to the tank vent or line.  No more wondering if the wasps that built a nest in there since the last time I was at the boat will get me when I reach in there blindly. 

Put a couple of brackets for removable gimbled drink holders and a thumb nut to lock my cockpit table in place.

[Tim Gardner]

Brack,

Unless I'm mistaken, wasps can get under the bottom edge.  Take care! 

TG

[brackish]

Brack,

Unless I'm mistaken, wasps can get under the bottom edge.  Take care! 

TG

Tim, they can, however, I can lift it from afar with the boat hook if I've been away from the boat for some time.  That's what I have to do with the side cockpit hatches.  With the old fuel locker cover I had to get right down there with them to open it.  To reach my tank vent and open it, I often would reach in there blindly. Not good.

[Mike]

Beautiful job...hope you will post some drawings or other details.

[AislinGirlII]

Really looks great !

[brackish]

Beautiful job...hope you will post some drawings or other details.

LOL, drawings?  I just went to the teak and marine ply scrap pile and made it up as I went.  Used the glass cover for a pattern.  Got some extra thick teak and made a frame for the top the same thickness as the old glass cover.  put a rabbet on the inside and epoxied in a piece of 3/8" Okoume ply that was left over from my skiff build.  coated that surface with epoxy to seal then put in the slats, they were approximately 5/16" thick.  I did that mostly to save teak, I could resaw a thicker piece and not use as much.  It is mostly for looks but will help some with seasonal and temperature expansion and contraction.  Used some of that teak deck caulk to finish it off.  The front piece is just a glued up piece of teak.  There is a 1" x 1" cleat at the joint which is not 90 degrees but matches the slope of the old.

You have to make a back piece that matches the compound curve, because you can't mount the hinges to the curved surface and have it open.  Cut the curve to match the back wall first then round over the bottom to match the other curve.  A little manual shaping and sanding required here.

If you make it out of teak, invest in some Smith and company "Oak and Teak Epoxy" which is specially formulated to work with the oil in teak.  I initially used Titebond III for the front panel glue up and had a joint failure.

A pic of the underside: