Com-Pac Yacht Owners Association

Yay!, it looks like the Forum's back on line...I wonder what the issue was?  But anyways, here goes:

As some of you may recall, late last winter I acquired a "foundling" later-style '93 Com-Pac 16-3 for the princely sum of $1, which had been sadly mouldering away neglected by all but the weeds and creeping vines for perhaps a decade in the same boat storage lot as my other boat, a hybrid "power-sailor" Macgregor 26X (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HDKfX6d4qHk).  The story of how I came by her is found here (http://cpyoa.geekworkshosting.com/forum/index.php?topic=9237.0).

What with her companionway hatch cover having been missing for who knows how long, and so wide open to the elements, her cabin had been pretty well flooded...probably several times.  When I got a hold of her, the water was up to the cushions. The result was the ultra-funky interior shown below, just after she had been pumped out with that jury-rigged electric bilge pump also shown:

(http://i63.tinypic.com/2wg93ee.jpg)

Following a months-long regimen most weekends and many weekday evenings on the way home from work of electric fanning and me bobbing into the cabin with a big sponge like one of those wacky drinking dippy birds (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o9v9Dn4ildo&t=10s), she was finally dry enough to do something about her. 

Luckily, once dry, it turned out her main wooden structural underlay bits were all in remarkably sound shape.  It was basically just the 1/4 inch or so thick teak-veneered plywoody finishing overlay that had really suffered the brunt of the flooding. 

Once those rotted overlay bits and that big teaky plywood bulkhead thing forward had been removed for refinishing, and the base and berth bunks and bow area cleaned up and sanded a bit, I slapped on a couple of coats of some medium-grey Aqua-Guard Aqua-Gloss Marine Enamel (http://flexdel.com/products/aqua-gloss-waterbased-hi-gloss-marine-enamel/) that I just happened to spot a quart of a while back for just $5 as a markdown at Lowes or Home Depot or somewhere. Surprisingly, it was a near spot-on match for the original factory color--in case anyone's looking to freshen up their own berths. It's water-based, so easy on the "vapors" in an enclosed area (the very definition of a Com-Pac 16's berth, right?) and a snap to clean up, but its seems pretty damned tough all the same. Really good stuff!

One of my regular weekend pitstops on my way to the boatyard, cheap pathetic geezeball that I am, is to grab the dollar breakfast at the huge Ikea here in Woodbridge, and then scurry own down straight to their big markdowns room.  If you're looking for a hundred scented tealight candles for a buck to help keep your "Compy" smelling sweet and "Admiral-approved," that's where you'll find 'em.  Personally, I favor the orange ones.  I've found they also frequently have lots of other nautically-useful stuff, especially stainless steel doodads, there at fire sale prices.  Hell, my Macgregor's galley is ALL Ikea stuff.  Ahhh...sweet modular stainless Nordic doodads for next to nothing... You'll also find racks and racks of various types of finished wood bits. Sure, most of it is just variations on that plastic laminate covered fiberboard crap that's only slightly firmer than cardboard and has no place anywhere near the water, but now and then there's something good.  Several months ago there was a whole rack full of lovely 20"x36"x1/4" planks of some sort of solid Scandinavian Spruce with nicely routed edging for just 99¢ a pop.  I bought them all...maybe a dozen or so.  That's what I used for the Com-Pac, having sanded and stained them just a wee bit and then finished them with a few coats of Ace Hardware's tested and highly-regarded yet inexpensive (http://cdn.practical-sailor.com/media/newspics/varnishes_2partrev.jpg) house brand of Gloss Spar Varnish (http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=12664445).  Truth is, I just love the "old school" way it smells compared to urethanes and two-part potions and whatnot...Reminds me of my time as a "Riggers Apprentice" aboard the Balclutha (https://www.nps.gov/safr/learn/historyculture/balclutha.htm) back in the late '70s, aboard which pine tar was considered a "hair care product." 

So anyhow, here's the "After" picture you've been patiently waiting for, though it's admittedly just a bit of a slapdash over-the-shoulder shot on my way out to gallop homeward to dinner:

(http://i64.tinypic.com/se5bma.jpg)

It's a shame one cannot really make out the rather pleasant way those routed edges of the lighter spruce planks meet up in the above shot, and I still need to varnish up that handpost/mast support and woodplug that crossbeam edge's mounting screw holes, but you get the general idea.  Sure, it ain't a Hans Christian's über-opulent interior (http://imt.boatwizard.com/images/1/87/83/3918783_0_211120091409_5.jpg), but I rather like that two-tone look and think it brightens things up a notch.  And I've still got more than enough of those spruce planks left to bang together some useful cubbies, a little shelving or whatever else later on, once I get a better handle on what could be useful for a "charming wee overnighter."

P.S. Today I pulled off that little rectangular center piece nearest the blue carpeted floor just to darken it up to match the post, the bulkhead thing and that overlay strip at center. 

Awesome job!!! Great looking boat!!!

considering all the hard work you put into this boat, i'm willing to offer you $2 for her!

it does come with a roadworthy trailer right?

all joking aside, you did a fantastic job on her.

c.c.



_{seriously though, think about it, $2!  that's TWICE what you paid for it!}

Great job.  I love it when a orphan is adopted and rehabbed.  Send the rehab article and pix to various sailing mags for publication.

Gerry

Quote from: Gerry on December 13, 2016, 09:32:55 AM
Great job.  I love it when a orphan is adopted and rehabbed.  Send the rehab article and pix to various sailing mags for publication.

Gerry

Thanx!  And that's a fine idea.  Once I splash her (hopefully this coming Spring), I might just do that...assuming she doesn't sink right there at the launch ramp.

  i have to tip my hat to you. more work that i would have tackled but it looks to be worth it . fantastic job. if you were at the CLR a trophy would be in order

Very nice work! Fair winds with your Compac 16!

Great job

Well done. She looks good.

Nice work Bilgemaster, as a Compac16 owner myself, I recognize that you did a real nice job in very tight quarters, +1 for you.  If you get a chance to send an exterior photo that'd be great.  Congrats on a nice rebuild.

-Jason

Wow....really nice job reviving her! Looking forward to seeing more pics as you continue.

Here's a couple of shots of the more-or-less finished cabin, with that little center bit stained to match the darker bits, the crosspiece's little wooden screwhole cover bungs in and varnished, and a nice stainless steel rod from the markdowns room at the local Ikea--handy for hanging or securing stuff.  Weirdly, the reflection in the photo from the grey bunks makes that little rectangular piece seem like a really different color, though it's actually a pretty close match to those other darker wood bits for something I just eyeballed.

(http://bukmop.com/ComPac16/ComPacInteriorWide.jpg)

Here's a closer shot:

(http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/ah123/Bilgemaster/ComPacInteriorSlatsAndBar_zpsxfkjs6zp.jpg)

Outstanding work!

I may be late to this posting, but let me say how beautiful your work is. I'm going to save this and hopefully it'll inspire me to replicate your work on Pegasus. One question (for now!) - Do you have a pattern for the bulkhead. My 1981 CP16 Pegasus, did not come with with a bulkhead. Maybe I'll develop the appropriate skills (mostly anti-procrastination!) to accomplish something similar. Thanks for the inspiration!

Marty K.
1981 CP16 Pegasus

Quote from: MKBLK on January 06, 2017, 04:22:11 PM
I may be late to this posting, but let me say how beautiful your work is. I'm going to save this and hopefully it'll inspire me to replicate your work on Pegasus. One question (for now!) - Do you have a pattern for the bulkhead. My 1981 CP16 Pegasus, did not come with with a bulkhead. Maybe I'll develop the appropriate skills (mostly anti-procrastination!) to accomplish something similar. Thanks for the inspiration!

Marty K.
1981 CP16 Pegasus

Thanks!...and sorry it took me so long to respond.  I haven't checked in in a while.  Fortunately, that bulkhead veneered plywood piece was still salvageable, so I didn't have to cut a new one.  There was a bit of rot between the veneers near the bottom starboard edge, but I just cleaned her up a bit and filled with a glob of JBWeld.  I thought I might slap a bit of moulding down along that bottom edge eventually, but haven't bothered yet.  With that said, I did have to make a similar (but obviously larger) bulkhead for my Macgregor 26X's rear berth area, covering the transom innards.  So, I just made a few basic measurements, got a BIG piece of cardboard, and sort of cut that to size a bit larger than needed.  I then took that cardboard and a pair of scissors down there and just commenced trimming it bit by bit until it fit perfectly.  The result was a nice template to do the actual cut.  In the case of the Macgregor, it needed to be a perfect sort of "press fit" with the topmost edge sliding just under a kind of lip in the interior's cladding or fiberglass walling, so I used a bit of medium-firm closed cell foam strip adhered along the bottom edge and sides of the new bulkhead to help seal and keep it in place.  With a little patience, it all came together just perfectly.  Luckily, in the case of the Com-Pac, that bulkhead just screws into a pair of wooden braces that come up from the floor.  If you need photos of the bow-facing side of the bulkhead and those braces, I can easily oblige.  But not to worry: that bulkhead itself should be an easy fitting with a piece of cardboard.  It need not even be a particularly firm fit against the hull.

Even though there was what passes for snow here in Virginia out there on my lawn this morning, I take solace in the fact that we're only a day away from February and the home stretch for prepping for 2017's sailing season.  I'm hoping to finally get the "Foundling" splashed some time in April or maybe early May, depending. 

Now that I've got the interior of the cabin pretty well squared away, next up is the mast and rigging.  The "hard stuff" like the mast itself, shrouds and stays and most other hardware seems sound enough.  The "soft stuff" like the halyards are more of a mixed bag, and much needs replacement.  I see that one of the spreaders had cracked off where I guess a clevis pin holds it into a bracket set on the mast.  For now I thought I might first try just dressing (grinding) the break nice and flat, drilling another hole, and hoping to take up the resultant slack at the turnbuckle on the chainplate.  Failing that, I might try to get one from Hutchins Yachts, though I don't see one on their CP-16 Parts List (https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xtfxq40jvl9esw9/AAB7IRg5-cCjhoHIwUSB-seqa/CP%2016%20PARTS%20AUGUST%202016.pdf?dl=0).  Any thoughts or tips on this would be welcome. In fact, if anyone near Woodbridge, Virginia may find themselves with some free time some weekend to swing by Leesylvania State Park (http://www.dcr.virginia.gov/state-parks/leesylvania#general_information) for a look-see, drop me a PM, I could definitely use a pair of knowledgeable eyes on the matter.  Fortunately for me, there's another older but nicely kept CP-16 mast-up and nearby in the same boat storage lot to serve as a guide, but still, there's no substitute for firsthand experience.

I broke a spreader last summer.  I got a new pair, I recommend that you buy a pair, from Com-Pac.  They weren't expensive at all.  It is my understanding that they usually have them in stock.  Give them a call.

Al

Excellent craftsmanship!

Tomorrow's likely to be a red letter day for the "Foundling." Weather permitting I'll be raising her mast for the first time in certainly well over a decade. I'd already wired in the new spreader to replace the snapped one last weekend, so today I laid it all out: mast up on deck, cushion on the companionway sliding hatch, spreaders pinned in, port and starboard shrouds hooked up, halyard led low, all ready for my kid and I to give her the old Okinawan heave-ho.

The forecast claims we might get a brief shower overnight and in the early morning, but it looks like a go for the afternoon.  I might have had it up last weekend, after getting on the new spreader (one was cracked at the mast foot) except for lacking a turnbuckle barrel for the starboard shroud.  The good folks at Hutchins squared me away with one for $30 delivered. Yikes!...But at least they threw in a few complimentary ring-dings, which have come in useful today.

Thanks and a tip o' the hat to Beckeresq (http://cpyoa.geekworkshosting.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=5762), with whom I've been swapping PMs about that DIY-programmed Marine FM and NOAA Weather Radio for less than $30 (http://cpyoa.geekworkshosting.com/forum/index.php?topic=9873.msg74463#msg74463) I'd posted about earlier.  He was kind enough to give me a ring this morning with some very useful tips (including putting that boat cushion atop the sliding hatch to protect it if things should suddenly get all "droppy").

Wish me luck!  Pix to follow...

So, everything went pretty smoothly and according to plan with the Foundling's inaugural mast raising on Sunday, and once I had ceased babbling half-witted instructions to my kid and any wildlife observing nearby in that "Dad Pseudo-Nautical-Speak", as in, "Concurrently we'll splay the shrouds a-starboard, a-larboard and abaft so as not to foul the halyard periwinkles for the buffnibbins athwart yon fooblebinnacles!", my son and I got her up and pinned in maybe a minute tops--much easier than the larger Macgregor 26X's there in the background, even with its block-n-tackle Mast Raising System.  Here's how she looked:

(http://bukmop.com/ComPac16/MastUpPort.jpg)

Of course, the very next evening I swung by the boatyard to drop it all again singlehandedly in order to square away the roller furling's and the main's halyards properly.  The main's issue was just a matter of me being too simpleminded to make sure the right end of it (with the sailhead attachment thingy) was down towards the deck.  Meanwhile, though once up it seemed the furler's halyard might have been jammed up within the furler tunnel somehow, upon closer examination, once she was down again, it just seems that a goodly length of line from some sort of sliding tab that runs the length of the furler in a sort of channel to follow the halyard line within, had simply gone where the woodbine twineth, with only a little remaining residual scrap of line still attached to a hole in that slider tab.  For all I know, the rest of that line is currently the elegant crown molding or supporting a hammock in some fashionable woodchuck's burrow nearby...And I somehow find either option an oddly comforting thought.  Though I'm a bit new to all this, it seems there's no real problem after all: I just need to bowline enough of a length of line into the hole in that sliding tab to run it down towards the deck (possibly passing it first through some block up on the mast, I wonder?).

Next up this weekend will be sorting out the roller furling's lower barrel and its line (and/or lines) needed to furl and unfurl the sail.  My Macgregor 26X has a CDI FF2 furler (http://www.sailrite.com/CDI-Furler-Flexible-FF2-With-Ball-Bearings), with a sort of barrel cover covering the spool within and a single line from its furler barrel.  It just worked from the get go, so I never really needed to fix or even figure it out much.  In contrast, the Com-Pac's furler has a sort of open reel spool for a barrel, and I imagine that there must be some sort of line (or perhaps lines) wound somehow within that spool.  Here's how she looks, from above and from the side:

(http://bukmop.com/ComPac16/RollerFurlingTop.jpg)

(http://bukmop.com/ComPac16/RollerFurlingPort.jpg)

The furler has no markings I can find that might divulge its make or model, so if anyone can identify it from the photos, point me to any sort of manual or how-to guide or video, or just explain how it may be properly rigged (including its halyard stuff), I would be very grateful. 

Until then, wish me luck!  If all goes well, I am still hoping to splash it for the first time with me at the tiller next month.

Well done!  Looks great.

Quote from: Beckeresq on March 22, 2017, 09:05:24 AM
Well done!  Looks great.

Thanks!...And thanks again for calling with those useful tips for getting the mast up.  I'm still trying to get my head around the proper rigging of the roller furling. 

For example, in the picture below you can see a reddish line that I have provisionally attached to that sliding tab thing I had described earlier, which slides the length of a channel in the furler and seems attached to a halyard (or some sort of line) within the furler.  As you can see, I have fed that red line through a pulley off of the mast just to see if it looks "right".  Hint: It doesn't.  When I got the boat, that slider only had a scrap of line maybe a foot long attached to it, possibly the remnant of a longer line.  So, what SHOULD be there, what is it really for, and how should it run?  And that pulley off of the mast that the red line's shown running through...What's it really for?

(http://bukmop.com/ComPac16/RollerFurlingTabAndBlock.jpg)

Ok Bilge after all of this beautiful work, and it truly is, you should be compensated well. I know Crazycarl offered you double what you paid for her, but with all of the time and effort invested you deserve more. We are prepared to triple it! Can't wait for your first sailing pics of her. Congrats!

(remember we offed three time the price paid. :) )

Not sure this helps with your furler questions, but I'll try. The furler gray extrusion tape has (or should have) an internal halyard. One end of the halyard attaches to the head of the furling sail. That runs up externally to the top and through the black halyard device at the top of the extrusion tape, and back down the other (forward) side of the tape, INTERNALLY within the slot of the tape. That end has the slide you describe, which is designed to keep the halyard line within the slot on the tape. From the slide down the internal core of the line has been removed, so that end of the halyard (perhaps the 1 foot end you mention) should feel limp.

With the mast down, tie a long temporary line (about 20 feet, clothes line, whatever) to the limp line below the slider. The limp line portion slips outside the slot. Make sure the slider and rest of the actual halyard is WITHIN and can slide up the forward slot to and through the black fitting at the top. There is an opening toward the bottom forward slot to feed the halyard slide into the slot if has come out. The slider will remain in the forward slot and not exit on the stern facing side of the top fitting with the rest of the halyard. The limp portion however, along with your temporary line tied to it, has to remain outside. Now tie the firm line of the halyard to the head of the sail, and feed the head into the slot opening on the stern side of the tape, just like you're feeding the mainsail into its slot, and pulling on your temporary line on the other side of the tape, pull the sail to the top of the fitting. Once you figure all this out, you can from then on do all of this with the mast up.

Now you remove the temporary line you attached to the halyard and tie the limp end to that other hole on your furler drum. Looks like from your picture one end (can not tell which one) is already tied to the open drum. Anyway, the end of the limp halyard line should tie to the forward drum hole, and you attach a short line to the tack of the jib and tie that to the other hole on the drum. Forget the pulley you tried to use on the tang.

Probably clear as mud, but feel free to pm me with questions. Sorry, I can't identify your furler drum.

Jett

If I could add a "Karma," I would.

(Hmmm...And here suddenly, I find I can, so there you go Jett!)

your furler looks to be an FF1 Flexible Furler.

Our 16 has hank on headsails but our 23 had a CDI flex fiurler though a FF2 which is for larger craft. I agree with CC that it is more than likely the FF1 model. Our 23 had the internal halyard run incorrectly when purchased and another part of it was broken. Sounds like yours is intact. I downloaded the manual which was a great help and also spent much time on the phone with the CDI folks as I was sorting out the problem, getting a new internal halyard set up and run, with the mast up which was interesting (do any work mast down and it will go faster). They were great to deal with. Reach out to them for questions and sending pics to sort things out.

Here's link to manuals:   http://www.sailcdi.com/flexible-furlers

She'll be on the water soon!

Quote from: crazycarl on March 27, 2017, 12:32:46 AM
your furler looks to be an FF1 Flexible Furler.

Thing is, I have a CDI FF2 on the Macgregor 26X, and it and its online manual (http://www.sailrite.com/PDF/FF1-Online-Manual.pdf) have metal line attachment points atop the spool barrel, while the one on the Foundlng's are plastic--cast into the barrel. It also lacks the metal barrel cover, and the spool itself seems differently shaped.

(http://bukmop.com/ComPac16/RollerFurlingTop.jpg)

Quote from: Bilgemaster on March 30, 2017, 08:53:29 PM
Thing is, I have a CDI FF1 on the Macgregor 26X, and it and its online manual (http://www.sailrite.com/PDF/FF1-Online-Manual.pdf) have metal line attachment points atop the spool barrel, while the one on the Foundlng's are plastic--cast into the barrel, as shown below. It also lacks the metal spool barrel cover, and the spool itself seems differently shaped.

(http://bukmop.com/ComPac16/RollerFurlingTop.jpg)

Occasional replacement of the internal halyard on the CDI furler is a really good idea. The halyard is under constant stress and tends to wear out eventually. It is an odd design ("de-cored" at one end to allow it to slip through the slot in the plastic foil) so you really need to order it directly from CDI. Fortunately this is easy, and the installation process isn't hard.

Wes

Hey Bilge, don't hesitate to contact the CDI folks. they were great to deal with and the furler we had was an ancient version (well over two decades) so that sending them some pics and also having them on the phone while i worked on it was huge. The manual was still helpful though the version they have now is different from what we had.

Alright since you have not responded to my offer to give you three times what you paid for her guess that means you have wisely decided to keep her! Not sure what i would do with two of them anyway, well actually know some folks who would love one!

Bilgemaster. I didn't catch that you had a CDI furler on another boat when I posted my longwinded instructions in my previous post. My instructions are for such a furler, which you obviously know something about already. But the more I look at your pics, the more I realize that except for the extrusion tape, nothing else looks like a CDI furler. I still can't figure out what you've got and, therefore, how it should work.

One guess about the spool (drum) is it looks like it handles a continuous line. I know nothing about these, except they are a different beast. Your open spool doesn't look like it would allow line to wrap up like the traditional models. But even so, I can't figure out how that spool would keep line from slinging off sometimes (there is no guard that I can see). Oh, well....hope you get it figured out!

Jett

Jett:

Rest assured that there is absolutely NO need to apologize for trying to help out this noobie.  For all I know it IS a CDI FF1 furler--maybe an older model...maybe it's been modified...I just don't know.  Just because I have a CDI on the Magregor doesn't mean I have the faintest clue what I am dealing with on the "Foundling."

You earned that "Karma" fair and square.

Well, I'm off to the boatyard now to take another crack at my handmade motor mount.

Thanks!

So here's a shot of that homemade motor mount block I'd mentioned.  Don't be impressed--What we have here was basically just eyeballed for general size in "finger widths" from an actual store-bought one found on another CP16 in the boat lot, hoinked out from some random slab of leftover wood that was lying around mouldering under our backyard deck, shaped a bit into a roughly keystone shape with an old belt-sander, finished with a little hand-sander wearing some 100 grit, brushed off with a handy snot rag (that's what gives the woodgrain that lovely "glisteny marbeling"), slopped with a couple of coats of Ace Hardware's old school Gloss Spar Varnish (http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=12664445) (a real bargain by the quart, and which acquitted itself perfectly respectably for its low cost in recent Practical Sailor Exterior Wood Finish Testing (http://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/37_9/features/exterior_wood_10576-1.html)...Besides, I like that lovely old school antiquey-windjammery tall ship smell compared to polyurapoxywhatever-thanes), and held with four 2" crowned stainless carriage bolts, washers and nuts.  Lining up those bolts so they'd be nice and firm in their bores was the tricky bit.  Once in place, and after I had taken this picture I slopped one more coat of that Spar Varnish on her:

(http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/ah123/Bilgemaster/ComPacMotorMount_zpsxcccdjiw.jpg?t=1491159381)

Here's what she looks like with the little Mercury 2.5hp 2-stroker kicker motor mounted, shown at its lowest setting.  This motor was a bit of craigslist luck: cost me only $100...delivered to my door.  The deal was, "$200 running, $100 if not."  The fellow was just trying to clear out a bunch of random nautical crap left behind by a buddy who'd since gone back to England.  He couldn't get her kicking, so I took a chance.  After pulling off the carb, scraping out a couple of spoonfuls of long-crystallized goop, pulling the jets and emptying a can of spray carb cleaner throughout and giving the fuel tank a little rinse too, I put in some fresh fuel and oil mix with a dash of Marvel Mystery Oil, and she fired right up.  So, now I've got a shiny little Mercury 2.5, which can be beefed up to a 3.5 sometimes by just removing a little restrictor plate from the intake...sometimes with a new carb slide (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2unnzYPutKQ) (likelier in this particular later model case), depending on the model year.  The older Tohatsu which came with the "Foundling," virtually identical to this Mercury, had already been modded in this fashion, but runs overall a tad "fussier," so it's going onto my dinghy for now.  My hunch is that she just needs to stretch her legs a bit with some decent fuel after having just sat for over a decade.  Besides which, the Mercury's all nice and really shiny.  Not bad for a C Note...Thanks Devil Ethanol!:

(http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/ah123/Bilgemaster/ComPacMotorMountWithEngine_zps6bys32eo.jpg?t=1491163753)

That is a beautiful motor mount that you have there. Much prettier than my old scratched piece of plastic. I can't see the back of the wooden block to see if it is reinforced with something, but please make sure that the block of wood won't snap off with your motor along the horizontal wood grains. I hope she serves you well.
Chris

Chris,

Your point is well taken: In retrospect perhaps I'd have done better to orient it with the grain running top to bottom.  With that said, it is one beastly stout chunk of well-aged oak. My hunch is I could maybe hang the Magnum V8 360 from my old black Durango tow beast seen in the background from that board with no ill effects to it, let alone my little 30-something pound Mercury or Tohatsu.  Still, I'll be sure to keep a good eye on it...Maybe eventually screw a couple of brass or stainless strips into it, either vertically front and back, or perhaps around its very circumference should I suddenly be overcome by some manly true handworkerly urge of yore and trip over some brass stripping somewhere.


Meanwhile, in a world without handworkers... (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1TwIUgd7eb0)

Well, it looks like Mas and crazycarl were right about CDI and their staff being helpful.  Also, to JBC's credit, it seems that what we have here IS a CDI furler...just an early "continuous-line" model made in maybe the '80s or early '90s, before the company was taken over and they started making the "single-line" types they do now.  Hence the family resemblance.  The one on my "Foundling" is apparently something called a "CDI Micro Continuous Furler."  Sure, if you think: "CDI" = "Seedy Eye_®", then "CDI Micro Continuous Furler" could sound a bit like some sort of 24-hour salacious circus or sideshow act you might catch through a peephole in the seedier parts of Amsterdam involving dwarves, elastic medical tubing and maybe some Vietnamese potbelly pigs in a sort of twirling sling-shotting musical chairs romp.  But no such luck.  It's just my dumb old furler shown here:

(http://bukmop.com/ComPac16/RollerFurlingTop.jpg)

(http://bukmop.com/ComPac16/RollerFurlingPort.jpg)

For the ready reference of any folks who may find themselves baffled by such a rig in future, here is the pleasant and helpful email I received from CDI's Taylor Warren (Please note that email addresses and other direct contact info have been stripped out so this good man doesn't wake up to a steaming pile of spammy effluent in his Inbox were the "spambots" to harvest them online):

From: "Taylor Warren"
Date: Apr 5, 2017 9:45 AM
Subject: RE: Is my furler a CDI FF1 as some believe?
To: "Bill Connelly"

Good Morning,

Thanks for the information and the photos, glad to hear that the Com-Pac has gone to a good owner. I'm sure it already looks much better!

That would be an older CDI Micro Continuous Furler. It was produced for a very short time in the early 90's. It doesn't have a stainless steel cup like our modern systems. All it would use is a continuous line that fits right in the slot of the drum. Unfortunately we were never passed on much information/ parts on those systems when we took over CDI because of how long they were produced. The one concern I would have is if the drum is sitting on top of the body of the turnbuckle. It is hard to see exactly but you would want a gap there or there is a chance your drum will spin your turnbuckle.

What I would recommend is depending on the measurements of the luff extrusion we could update the bottom section of the furler to the current FF1 model. If the measurement of the luff extrusion is the same as the FF1 systems (I believe it is) it would be a very easy swap over.

Sorry we aren't much help with the older systems. You will have to send some photos of how this project turns out!

Have a great day.

Taylor Warren
Cruising Design International
1036 Waverley St.
Winnipeg, MB
R3T 0P3
www.sailcdi.com (http://www.sailcdi.com/)

I might go with that FF1 upgrade he describes some day, but for now, having actually found some rather positive, even glowing, reports and comments on my old-style freaky-deaky furler "out there" in Boat Forums Land, I think I'm gonna try to make a go of it, once I get my hands on a fid and figure out how to splice together some big old continuous loop (https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=splice+continuous+loop) to hopefully control what I've got.  And yes, I might well cross-stitch the bristles from those lascivious and far-flung Potbelly Pigs into whatever I may come up with for added resilience and stiffer line control.

Cool!

I don't know if this would work, but after watching someone messing around with spectra line, I think an easy splice would be do-able.  If you can use 3/16 line, get a length of spectra hollow weave and simply use a fid to insert one end into the other end to make a loop.  Shove the inside line as far into the other end as you can get it and it should never come apart.  If you are suspicious of that, stitch some nylon thread into the joint and it should never come apart.   Except for being a little thicker at the joint, it should wrap around the furler with little to tell it is there. 

Al

Oh, I forgot about this one.  To make a loop, simply pass one end of the line through the other end about six inches from the other end and pull out about six inches of the line that you passed through the first.  Switch the fid to the other end and pass that through the first line about 1/2 inch behind the first crossing.  Keep doing that for a couple more passes, then bury the ends inside the line.  This is unbreakable because the line has been passed through itself from both directions and simply cannot be pulled out.  Once there has been some tension on the line it will pull down to the same thickness as the other method I mentioned.

Al

Thanks for the splicing tips!  Having caught a few demos on YouTube, where it all seemed straightforward enough at least, I went ahead and ordered a cheapo 3 pack set of Wellington Cordage fids (http://www.ebay.com/itm/152063585925?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT#rwid) for like 4 bucks to give it a whirl with some lengths of that Harbor Freight Diamond Braid stuff (http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=diamond+braid+rope) until I get it right.  Sure, I'd love to have a $100 set of gleaming stainless Samson or Selma fids, each presumably forged and hammered out by hand by elves in some magic forest and annealed in Essence of Unicorn Burps_®, but I don't really plan to start doing this splicing thing professionally...or maybe ever again, if I can help it.

In the meantime, last evening I had a bit of an insight breakthrough when I swung by the lot on the way home from work: while waxing off some of the Winter's crud, I finally took a good look at a line which has just been sort of sitting in a little heap on the starboard foredeck the whole time I've had the Foundling, but had never given much thought to--just another random ratty-looking length of rope festooning the craft when I got her.  Well, it turned out on closer examination to be a long loop, running through a sort of plastic fairlead hoop attached to a mounting on the gunwale.  So, it looks like I've found the PO's continuous line for the furler.  The line's dark and mildewey and ragged and even "crunchy" in parts with a stapled-together "splice" covered in electrical tape, which overall looks like it might have been done by volunteers from the Columbia Lighthouse for the Blind, but at least I now have a working model so far as length and thickness and routing of a continuous furler line that presumably once did the job.

Well, I'm off to the boat lot!

(https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/f9/d7/b8/f9d7b824d21047154f9cc0abeaa0f6e8.jpg)

Bilge,
Your probably right about that wood being a solid chunk of oak. I didn't realize that. Love the picture, LOL, and brass would be pretty sharp and salty on that. Enjoying the essence of unicorn belch seeping through the keyboard.
Chris

Fellow Mariners,

It is my pleasure to announce that after just over a year of scrubbing and sawing and scratching myself a new baldspot, yesterday afternoon the Foundling (http://cpyoa.geekworkshosting.com/forum/index.php?topic=9237.0) resumed her rightful place in the waves for the first time since maybe the Clinton Administration.  Here is a shot of her having just returned from her three hour tour (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yfSLuEj99d0), during which she acquitted herself like a real lady:

(http://bukmop.com/ComPac16/FirstSplash.jpg)

Lest we forget, here was the lamentable state in which she was found:

(http://bukmop.com/ComPac16/Com-PacBefore.jpg)

(http://www.amphicar.net/Macgregor26X/ComPacAsFoundStarboardFront.jpg)

(http://www.amphicar.net/Macgregor26X/ComPacAsFoundStarboardAft.jpg)

(http://www.amphicar.net/Macgregor26X/ComPacAsFoundCockpit.jpg)

(http://www.amphicar.net/Macgregor26X/ComPacAsFoundCabin.jpg)

All told, including the single dollar I paid for her (which was, granted, a real Morgan Silver Dollar on the theory that I really ought to pay a real dollar for a real boat), it has cost me precisely $571.60 to get this girl proudly back into the drink, if you count the gleaming little "optional" 2-stroke Mercury 2.5 hp motor I picked up off craigslist several weeks ago for just a C Note to take the place of the still workable but somewhat fussier, yet nearly identical older little Tohatsu 2.5 that came with the boat. That includes some parts for that Tohatsu outboard, $198.02 in boat and trailer registration fees, armfuls of dollar store cleaning products and knockoff DampRid moisture removers (https://www.dollartree.com/The-Home-Store-Charcoal-Moisture-Eliminators-9-8-oz-Tubs/p332039/index.pro) (that work every bit as well as their far pricier cousins), an optional new 2" hitch coupler and a pair of very non-optional trailer wheels and tires, a quart of Ace Spar Varnish (http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=12664445&KPID=12365820&cid=CAPLA:G:Shopping_-_Catch_All_-_New&pla=pla_12365820&k_clickid=0ebf4137-a482-43dc-bb61-fbac2fd2a59d), another quart of Blue Water Marine Regatta Red Ablative (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-Water-Marine-New-England-Copper-25-Copper-Ablative-Quart-Royal-Blue-/131999578339?hash=item1ebbc9b8e3:g:adcAAOSwo4pYJNib&vxp=mtr), a marked-down quart of that great medium-grey Aqua-Guard Aqua-Gloss Marine Enamel (http://flexdel.com/products/aqua-gloss-waterbased-hi-gloss-marine-enamel/) for the cabin bunks, a bunch of marked-down panels of lovely Scandinavian Spruce and bags and bags of scented bagged "shelf-worn" tealight candles from the local Ikea Markdowns Room, and a turnbuckle for the starboard shroud from the good folks at Hutchins (who were kind enough to toss a few complimentary ring-dings into the package). That and a bunch of found objects and other stuff already on hand sufficed to get her back into the water where she belongs.

The moral of this whole story being that if I can do it, then almost anyone, even a small new family just starting out and really struggling along as many of us do, could still handily afford to get out there and enjoy those shimmering days on the water like yesterday if they've really a mind to, just like your Kennedys, Rockefellers and Vanderbilts.  They just need to find the right little fixer-upper and apply a bit of elbow grease and maybe just a couple-few bucks a day to it...I mean, even with some optional items added in my case, we're looking at just about a buck-fifty a day over about a year.  I'm talking less than "Starbucks money" here.

Brilliant to see another CP-16 returned to the fold, you certainly deserve a lot of credit for the labour of love you have bestowed upon her.
I hope you now get the weather to enjoy a wonderful summers sailing aboard. Enjoy

Regards

Gordon

Congratulations!  Another beauty returned to the real world.

Nice work-beautiful interior.
Ed

And the work continues...

So, I finally got around to dropping a battery into the Foundling to check her electrics.  The good news is that there was already a great little platform and strap installed forward for this purpose, and I had a nice enough battery which came with my "towbeast" Durango, but was a bit too small for her big V8.  Still, she's just the right size for the Foundling, so into a Group 24 marine battery box she went, and into the boat with a good full charge.

The Foundling's factory electrical panel and its wiring seem tip-top, with no corrosion to speak of and no blown fuses. It all seems to be pretty much just the way it left Clearwater.  Still, although the single cabin light and added bulkhead compass interior lighting work fine, neither the mast light nor the bow and stern navigation lighting seem to function.  I pulled the stern light off and apart, and everything looks tip-top.  So, before I dive in there with a multimeter, I am hoping someone might be able to provide me with a either a detailed wiring diagram of how she came from the factory or a couple of detailed photos of your own 16's switchpanel's wiring. 

Matt at Hutchins/Com-Pac Yachts was kind enough to send me a wiring diagram of the larger boat and its lighting, but not one with any detail of the actual wiring schematics of the switchplate.  At some point I'll get these diagrams and pix from Matt up on the web for later ready reference by others, but just now my free domain webhosting service is having "issues."

In the meantime, PLEASE!...If you have a 16 and can reach your phone around that bulkhead thing and grab a couple-few semi-decent snaps of your own switchery's wiring, please post them here ASAP!

Hello Mr. Bilgemaster,

In case this helps:  My CP16 MK I did not have any electrical system when I purchased it so I added one. 
-I installed a 12V AGM battery in a battery box in the bow
-In-Line main fuse in the main positive wire leaving the battery
-Marine wiring used through-out.  Protected in a corrugated plastic conduit
-Power Supply runs from the battery to a homemade switch box which I mounted in the inside of the exterior wall/bulkhead, on the port side of the companionway.
-I can reach all the switches while sitting on the seats outside the cabin, and my depth-finder wires run straight through the bulkhead wall into the switchbox
-In the swicthbox, there is a handy bus for wire terminals and every switch is fused (a bit messy because I used inline fuses, but it works), from the switchbox power goes out to the interior fan, interior LED cabin light, bilge pump, bow red/green light, white all around masthead light, and I have a 12V charger plug-in.  Lastly, I have a switch that turns off the bowlight in order to leave just the white anchor light on.  I mounted my marine radio nearby and use the charger to keep it charged.
-The plastic conduit is held along the port side of the boat, from the battery back to the switch box, with round plastic clips that are screwed into the hull-deck joint with small screws that do the job.  Another trick that worked well was to hold the wiring/conduit up out of the way for the run to the stern (bilge pump and stern light....I admit the bilge pump may be fairly pointless in that location in this boat but I put it in) by cutting a length of coarse gutter foam and compressing into the full length of coaming/gunwhale gap in order that the conduit would be pressed up out of the way all the way back to the stern, this has held well for years.
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/com-pac%2016%20pics/IMAG06281.jpg) (http://s1125.photobucket.com/user/CPYOA/media/com-pac%2016%20pics/IMAG06281.jpg.html)
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/com-pac%2016%20pics/IMAG0239_zps887dad0e.jpg) (http://s1125.photobucket.com/user/CPYOA/media/com-pac%2016%20pics/IMAG0239_zps887dad0e.jpg.html)
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/com-pac%2016%20pics/IMAG0236_zps757662c8.jpg) (http://s1125.photobucket.com/user/CPYOA/media/com-pac%2016%20pics/IMAG0236_zps757662c8.jpg.html)

The switchbox is mounted just on the inside of the bulkhead where you can see the depthfinder mounted.  This is a recent picture of the Compac 16 with a Pilothouse added, but I left the wiring all in place when I added the Pilothouse.
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/com-pac%2016%20pics/IMG_7678.jpg) (http://s1125.photobucket.com/user/CPYOA/media/com-pac%2016%20pics/IMG_7678.jpg.html)

I'm not too familiar with the OEM wiring setup, as I never had that in my boat, but perhaps this info will be helpful.

Happy Sailing, nice job with that boat,

Jason

Jason,

Thanks for the rundown.  Nice work you did there, but what I'm really needing is just a couple-few clear pix of the original factory wiring of that switchbox, or a close to it as possible.

I've just cross-posted this request (http://cpyoa.geekworkshosting.com/forum/index.php?topic=10167.0) as a new thread, since it's admittedly pretty well buried here.