I have noticed that when heeled over, water will come up the cockpit drain. I assume it is coming through the opening in the transom. All of my rubber flaps do not look like they would seal. Is there a fix for this? Thanks.
Peter
The easy fix is to pick up your feet or wear boots. I have had this happen when there was to much weight in the aft end of the boat. A a couple people sitting in the back corners of the cockpit will do it, but what a confee place to set I know. A cockpit grate also helps this problem. This problem will not sink your boat and I'm sure some body will have some better ideas for you.
ROGER
Peter, my fix was simple, use drain plugs. This is a somewhat controversial solution as there is risk if not pulled should you need the drains to function. I figure that if I'm at the point of worrying about water drain, the wet feet on a simple cruising sail is no longer the main issue, so the plugs are pulled early. Check any kayak store or online outlet, and measure first. I ordered yellow and had to replace with green (or maybe the other way around) for my CP-16.
http://www.oceankayak.com/uploadedFiles/Website_Library_Assets/Files/Miscellaneous/Scupper%20Stopper%20Dimensions.pdf (http://www.oceankayak.com/uploadedFiles/Website_Library_Assets/Files/Miscellaneous/Scupper%20Stopper%20Dimensions.pdf)
You can also replace the scupper valves, something like this: http://www.boatus.com/magazine/trailering/2013/October/how-to-install-a-one-way-scupper-valve.asp (http://www.boatus.com/magazine/trailering/2013/October/how-to-install-a-one-way-scupper-valve.asp)
Or a completely new valve system: http://www.attwoodmarine.com/store/product/Scupper-Valves (http://www.attwoodmarine.com/store/product/Scupper-Valves)
I may overhaul the drain systems this winter, looking at using thru-hull valves and flexible tubing over rigid PVC pipe (except at the fittings). I had a home where all piping was flex tubing instead of hard pipe, seemed to work well and minimal cost difference now.
-Justin
I've had this happen on occasion when I've had a cockpit full of people and larger following waves while running. I consider it part of sailing. But then again, it's only a little water on my 23.
Bob23
Yes, it's not much water, maybe two or three cups. I'm not worried about it much, but if there is an easy fix,i want to make it.
Thanks Justin. Good ideas. I did not realize there are entire businesses built around fixing leaky scuppers! ????
I looked at the Hutchins parts list, the parts for the scupper are readily available. Entire assembly, cover and scupper is less than$10.
Is the labor to repair them simple? Remove cover, replace parts, seal, re-cover?
Thanks!
Peter
As folks have said, for all the reasons above, don't worry too much, not a real problem. Second, if your flaps are old and dry they probably are not sealing well so replacing them is the best way to go. Another source of water in the Suncat cockpit is the centerboard pennant tube. At speed and especially under power, water is forced up the tube. A cockpit grate is a simple and attractive solution. They are available from the factory(expensive but nice) but many folks have made their own here . Do a search and I am sure they will pop up.
For dry feet on a Sun Cat, a cockpit grate is necessary. They are also comfortable for bare feet and they look good too. (The grate that is, foot beauty varies.)
I agree with Steve. Dry feet and keeping anything else that winds up down there dry are the two best reasons for the cockpit grate.
OK OK something else to add to my wish list!. I agree the cockpit grate does look grate! ???? I hear the groans from here.....
Peter:
You're gonna fit in here just fine with grate jokes like that!!! I hope it's not too much of a drain on you.
Our boat had the cockpit grate only because the original buyer did not listen to my advice when purchasing the boat. (I was his salesman before becoming his broker and then his customer.)
I told him to get Dri Dek and make his own. He didn't like the idea and I was working on commission so didn't want to argue the point, so a factory grate it was.
The factory grate is better. I don't sell them any more. I'm saying that as a customer/user.
If your centerboard pennant cleat is not already mounted up on a raised block it will need to be when you raise the deck level with grate, Dri Dek, or whatever.
Tom, i put down dri dek today. I think it looks good and should do the job. I could not really justify the cost of the wood grates.
Peter Dubé
I thought about a wood grate for my 23, not for the reasons of water intrusion but rather I like the way they look. But I'm a cheapskate so I'll not buy any teak but I just remembered I have a lot of leftover Atlantic White Cedar siding from a construction project so I may give that a try. It's light and weathers to a light gray. Like my hair!!!
Dri-dek = dry feet!
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/image.jpeg) (http://s1125.photobucket.com/user/CPYOA/media/image.jpeg.html)
Looks good, Peter. In addition to keeping your feet dry, any kind of cockpit grate will tend to trap sand, hair, and whatever else may come aboard so that less of it winds up in the cabin.
Removing it for cleaning after a trip always reveals a pretty ugly mess, but at least you're not tracking it around the boat!
Solved the problem with an INEXPENSIVE Cockpit Grate for my Sun Cat.
Made from leftover 3/8" Marine Ply (from boatbuilding) and some stock cross pieces from Home Depot my grate served me quite well and looked nice.
Made a pattern from cardboard to determine best width of longitudinal strakes. Cut strakes from plywood and attached 6 cross pieces under to raise strakes up and maintain their positions. Applied several coats of Interlux Brightsides Polyurethane.
Added quite a few round white rubber door stops to the bottom of cross pieces to keep grate from lying in contact with water, and allowing water to reach cockpit drains.
Process illustrated below.
capt_nemo
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/Com-Pac%20Sun%20Cat%20Mods/Cockpit%20Grate/100_1475.jpg) (http://s1125.photobucket.com/user/CPYOA/media/Com-Pac%20Sun%20Cat%20Mods/Cockpit%20Grate/100_1475.jpg.html)
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/Com-Pac%20Sun%20Cat%20Mods/Cockpit%20Grate/100_1474.jpg) (http://s1125.photobucket.com/user/CPYOA/media/Com-Pac%20Sun%20Cat%20Mods/Cockpit%20Grate/100_1474.jpg.html)
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/Com-Pac%20Sun%20Cat%20Mods/Cockpit%20Grate/100_1476.jpg) (http://s1125.photobucket.com/user/CPYOA/media/Com-Pac%20Sun%20Cat%20Mods/Cockpit%20Grate/100_1476.jpg.html)
I also used the dri-dek and like it very much since it is thinner and easier to build. I added some thin oak molding (with a few coats of Cetol on it) to the port and starboard edges in 2 sections on each side- see photos. It makes it look a little more "salty" and hides the jagged edges. The small dirt, twigs, crumbs etc easily fall through the grate keeping the boat very clean.
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/com-pac%20sun%20cat%20pics/CatEase/DSCN3023%20resize.jpg) (http://s1125.photobucket.com/user/CPYOA/media/com-pac%20sun%20cat%20pics/CatEase/DSCN3023%20resize.jpg.html)
It also has the advantage that it is a little stiffer and less apt to shift underfoot than dri-dek alone and is still flexible so you can lift it up one section or one side at a time to get some of that ugly stuff that accumulates under it and especially by the drains.
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/com-pac%20sun%20cat%20pics/CatEase/DSCN3024%20crp%20rsz%20ddg.jpg) (http://s1125.photobucket.com/user/CPYOA/media/com-pac%20sun%20cat%20pics/CatEase/DSCN3024%20crp%20rsz%20ddg.jpg.html)
The molding is held in place by a handful of SS screws with washers as shown, often cutting off one of the stubby little feet to make a wider flat surface for the screw.
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/com-pac%20sun%20cat%20pics/CatEase/DSCN3026crp.jpg) (http://s1125.photobucket.com/user/CPYOA/media/com-pac%20sun%20cat%20pics/CatEase/DSCN3026crp.jpg.html)
I have used this for two seasons and it has held up well but the wood has gotten extra Cetol each year. Since the molding is above the dri-dek which has hundreds of little feet I have not had to add any extra feet as Capt._Nemo points out are needed with wood sitting in even a little water. I love the look of Capt._Nemo's wood grate but did not have the skill or tools to make it look as nicely made as his. The wood grate is very solid under foot but the dri-dek is acceptably stiff for most situations. Foot bracing at high heel angles is best done against the opposing bench.
Don, thanks for that good solution to using dry deck. I used it on a previous small boat but didn't like the way it curled sometimes. The wood trim seems like a reasonably good idea to reduce the tendency for the dry deck to curl. I wonder if starboard strips could be used. Not as attractive as wood but easier to maintain.
Tom L.
Tom L.,
Be careful with Starboard (plastic) since it can be slippery under foot when wet unless you do something to counteract the slick surface.
capt_nemo
Cap, you're positively right about the slippery aspect of starboard. I don't really know anything that will ad-hear to it to reduce slipperiness. For this application with maybe 1 to 1.5" wide strips for the edges of the dri-deck I don't think it would be an issue. A whole cockpit sole of starboard would be a nightmare.
Tom L.