and how
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m493/brett32806/1998%20compac%20cape%20coral%20016.jpg) (http://s1128.photobucket.com/user/brett32806/media/1998%20compac%20cape%20coral%20016.jpg.html)
I'm about to buy this boat and noticed this spider web like crack in the transom apparently from the top bolt of the outboard bracket.
Should I be concerned about this or does it look minor enough to not worry about it.
FYI there is no backing plate of any consequence on the other side, which I will correct.
As always, thanks for any feedback.
Yes, but Mac will tell you how to do it. Use stainless or aluminum for the backing plate, not wood.
Bob23
You will definitely want to put a backing plate on it like you suggested. Those marks are probably from someone trailering with the outboard left on the bracket.
If I was to re-do the bolts when I was putting a new backing plate on I would probably use butyl tape and countersink the outside screw holes: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware
It probably isn't a big deal. Check for water penetration but I doubt you have any. I have seen that before on a previous boat of mine.
Appears to be too much stress at the top, meaning too much motor at some point, or also, something hanging off it at somepoint that was too much.
The bolts Hutchins did was typically with regular washers, that tend to pull into the backer.
What I suggest is 2 pieces of aluminum, one that is on the outside, to cover the cracks, which you will seal to the back of the boat, that will also act as a strengthening plate. make that look nice, and it will look as if it should have been there somewhat. and the second plate for the inside.
If you wish to do Gelkote, you will find it tedious, and wont match in the end due to age. Grind out the cracks, checking the laminate and then repair as needed or fill the cracks with the gelcoat. sand the spot, then coat and fair to the best of your abilities.
If it were me, I would do the double plate, like 1/4 inch plates, make the edges real nice on the exterior plate, shiny side out, and Voila'! cracks disappear, and bolstered the mount!
Mac
Thanks. Yeah, I'm not really interested in doing Gelkote.
I like the aluminum idea though.
So something along the lines of this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/8020-Inc-Aluminum-Rounded-Oval-Plate-2455-6-5-x-25-x-18-Long-/331222220991?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d1e6200bf
under the motor mount so it would look like a "base" for the motor mount?
Yes, but I was thinking like a full plate behind it, but you could do 2 separate ones (one for each side) as the main holder will be the one you have inside to help stiffen it all up and be the backer.
By round over, I also just mean that the edges are soft, not sharp so that you wouldn't cut your hands if grabbing the boat from behind when swimming up to it.
Mac
Might want to consider a 3/4" thick star board plate on the outside. Either black or white would look good and like it was there all the time.
Myself I would use a good grade of Stainless Steel Plates rather than Aluminum. More cost upfront. Hard to polish out the pimples that may develop with in the Aluminum. I think Aluminum would be more pron to galvanic decay by coming into contact with another type of metal such as the motor mount.
Cats paw makes a great point on the SS, and Tom L on the starboard.
I didnt think about salt water in my equation (Marina I run is on fresh water.....) but any of those options should work well.
Starboard works well with common wood working tools, and I have heard a router works with it nicely.
Mac
So I would first bolt the Starboard to the transom and then attached the motor mount to the transom trough the Starboard?