I need a dinghy for my 23, and so I decided to take the advice of friends here on cpyoa and build a portuguese dinghy. I will not tow a dinghy unless just changing location in a cove or anchorage. Therefore the 23 presents a problem for carrying a dink on deck. I cut out and screwed the p dinghy together and put it on deck and it's a no go. It's too large for my taste. I have plenty of exp. with s&g and fiberglass so I decided to make the dinghy fit my needs. I turned it into a pram and am going to make it a nester. The new dinghy is 7' long 47" wide, with maybe 1-2" extra rocker at the bow. Nested dimensions will be 47" wide by 44" long. The bow transom is 23" at the top. This allows the bow to nest against the transom between the 6" knee braces. It will have dual bulkheads that when nested will allow the dinghy to fit over the forward hatch and cabin. This leaves the entire foredeck open and gives great visiability from the cockpit. It also presents almost no extra windage.
Inside seams are fillited and taped and screws have been pulled. I have about 5 hours in it now and $30 bucks not counting the tape and epoxy I had just sitting around. This is going to be a quick and dirty build as I have time. I already have 2 7' oars. I need to buy a couple yards of 6oz glass for the bottom and oarlocks with 4 sockets along with some paint. I figure I will have less than $200 in the entire setup and maybe 20-25 hours. Connecting hardware will be bolts and wing nuts. The dinghy weighs 23lb now. I am shooting for >50lb when complete.
(http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/ah178/cw021382/dinghy%20build/photo_zpsbe4ab07d.jpg)
(http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/ah178/cw021382/dinghy%20build/photo_zpsf7e88456.jpg)
(http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/ah178/cw021382/dinghy%20build/photo_zpsa9f91380.jpg)
(http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/ah178/cw021382/dinghy%20build/photo_zps9901af7d.jpg)
(http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/ah178/cw021382/dinghy%20build/photo_zps7e8192ba.jpg)
(http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/ah178/cw021382/dinghy%20build/photo_zps09861881.jpg)
-Chris
That is a very interesting approach. Keep us up to date on the build and in particular, the performance when you have it completed. I too, would prefer a hard dingy that can fit on the foredeck that is light enough to assemble and launch from the boat. If it works out, I'll probably be copying it.
That is, of course according to the Admiral, if I ever get the FS14 out of the carport. Aye, Aye ma'am, I can't work epoxy with temps falling below freezing.:)
(http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af200/brackish_photos/P1000648_zps23b30ffb.jpg)
Chris:
Why won't you tow a dink?
I've used Sure-ply for underlayment...bought at Lowe's. I thought it was just an interior product. About 5mm, or is it 4.5? Don't remember. I'd be interested in this project although I like my Walker Bay 8 towed behind. Thanks for sharing your project with us!
Bob23
Chris,
Looks good so far. Keep us posted on progress - especially with photos.
I made a full sized Portuguese Dinghy (see previous posts) although I don't intend to use it - it's for sale. If I were to do it again, it would be the shortened 6' version with a little less beam than specified to satisfy the needs of a solo sailor on a small 17' boat.
capt_nemo
Hi guys, I haven't had much time for the dinghy lately. I did manage to shape and glass the outside seams a couple of weeks ago. If this cold, snow, and ice would go away I would get more done. I will take a few pics next time I work on it. Next up is to fab up the bulkheads and glass them in.
-Chris
With the warm weather yesterday here in the St Louis area I was able to get another layer of fiberglass on my dinghy joints. I was then able to do a "sea trial" later in the afternoon and all my leaks are sealed and it floats just fine. Now I can focus on the seat, oarlocks, and finish work. I am learning that my finish on the fiberglass is not so smooth and fine, but for a first time working with fiberglass cloth and resin it is not too bad.
wroundey,
With experience your glass work will get better.
I've found that "finishing" a boat takes longer than "building" the darn thing.
capt_nemo
As Nemo says, It truly is the finish work that takes the most time.
Even with the work I do at the marina, it is always the finish, fine tuning that takes the most time. Now that I have done it for so long, the time it takes me to get it ready for paint is significantly less than when I started.
Everyone, keep up the good work on these little boats, and post pictures! I am sure I am not the only one wanting to see what friends are building!
Mac
I do lots of woodwork and know the importance of a good finish - it does take a lot of time and prep work.My issue on the dinghy is the glass itself - drips, dribbles, bumps..... I don't want to sand too much and sand through the cloth on my joints....I think since this is my first time I will get it good enough and go from there. As a former boss once told me - every carpenter makes mistakes, but the good ones know how to hide them so they are the only ones who know what went wrong.
wroundey,
Truth be told, I've gotten pretty darn good at covering up (hiding) most small mistakes.
It's the BIG ones that are a real PITA to hide, and, failing that, to live with forever as reminders!
capt_nemo
Dinghy so far. Now to build the seat, tholepins, and do some exterior finishing.http://s1281.photobucket.com/user/roundey1/slideshow/Dinghy (http://s1281.photobucket.com/user/roundey1/slideshow/Dinghy)
wroundey,
Look'in very nice thus far.
If you intend to carry a passenger, recommend you follow the advice of the designer to make a long longitudinal seat on the centerline. This makes it easier to achieve proper balance of weight in the lightweight dink.
I made my seat/side supports removable (for future repainting and maintenance ease), and longitudinal seat removable as well. Works great!
capt_nemo
P.S. That's me in the bow checking out position of second set of oarlocks with neighbor as passenger. Note the freeboard exposed with two adult males aboard. This dink is a load carrying machine!
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/Portuguese%20Dinghy/IMG_0605.jpg) (http://s1125.photobucket.com/user/CPYOA/media/Portuguese%20Dinghy/IMG_0605.jpg.html)
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/Portuguese%20Dinghy/20140901_140919-1.jpg) (http://s1125.photobucket.com/user/CPYOA/media/Portuguese%20Dinghy/20140901_140919-1.jpg.html)
Capt nemo - I am doing the long bench seat, working on that today.
Painting the outside of the dinghy today. The wife said I need to use something we already had around the house ( keep the costs down). So she found me a gallon of paint she picked up at a garage sale - Home Depot Disney line - Mickey's Pants. A rather bright red color, so I will be seen a mile away for sure.
wroundey,
Coincidentally, I'm just about ready to start painting the Kayak I'm building and, guess what, the color chosen and purchased some time ago was Interlux Brightsides One-Part Polyurethane BRIGHT RED!
Visibility on the water should be quite good indeed.
capt_nemo
Nemo - sounds like you have your oar locks set up well for the dinghy. What is your distance from the transom to each set of oar locks?
wroundey,
The STRAIGHT LINE DISTANCE from the outer edge of the transom to the center of the oarlock hole for the first set is 27½".
STRAIGHT LINE DISTANCE for the second set is 52½".
capt_nemo
Took the dinghy for a row tonight - I need to fine tune the oarlocks, but it handled nicely and was fun to row around the pond. No one was around to take any photos or video, but hopefully that will happen in the next couple of days.
wroundey,
Congratulations on the "Splashing" of your dink. Glad you thought it handled nicely. I temporarily clamped the oarlocks on while "fine tuning" their locations.
Mine, like NEW, has been for sale for some time now, very reasonably priced, but no takers. I need to clear out my garage so I can work on more boats.
capt_nemo