Just pulled the steering gear from the pedestal to the rudder quadrant out of Windrunner. In talking with Wes sometime during 1986 ComPac switched from using cables in conduits to bare cables running through sheaves. Note the black conduits extending from the pedestal through the cockpit floor, just to the left of the muffler.
(http://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag383/deisher6/100_3543_zpsb5597040.jpg) (http://s1373.photobucket.com/user/deisher6/media/100_3543_zpsb5597040.jpg.html)
The pedestal had been hand painted in place by a PO. It is getting repainted by an auto shop. Considered trying to get it power coated but there are numerous holes and plastic sleeves that would have to be rebored and or tapped. Paint seemed to be the simpler less expensive way to go. Will take a photograph of the finished product. The cable and sheaves, except for rust, were in pretty good condition except at the end fittings.
(http://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag383/deisher6/100_3548_zpsb4955b33.jpg) (http://s1373.photobucket.com/user/deisher6/media/100_3548_zpsb4955b33.jpg.html)
I chose to replace the conduits, connectors, as well as the chain and cable. "Ed" from Edison said that 5 foot conduits were standard for '86 ComPac 27's. The old ones measure 6.25 feet but I am going to go with the 5 foot recommendation. Will fabricate a way to support them off of the floor of the locker to take some of the stress of the end connectors.
The steering brake was in good condition. The steering shaft is very stiff. The bearings need replaced. The original compass had been replaced with a small unlit Ritchie. I got permission from the Purser (also Admiral) to replace the compass with a Ritchie DNP-200 stainless compass and binnacle. For a little bling bought stainless shifter, throttle levers and pedestal guard mount.
Should have all the parts by next week. Hope to assemble and install them by next Sunday.
regards charlie
Windrunner
Charley,
Just a couple of things to look at while you are in the area...
First, on the steering pedestal, take a good look at the casting that holds the shifting lever. While I was on my latest trip the one on Miss B. ('86) just busted into several parts for no good reason that I can tell. It took some "jury rigging" to get it fixed well enough to continue on but was fortunate enough that it broke within walking distance of a hardware store.
Secondly, if the screw-out access cover that is above the steering post has ever leaked even a little bit give a good inspection to the shelf that is at the top of the steering post housing. On mine, with casual inspection, looked to be fine, but I found out while in some pretty heavy seas just off Key Largo (same trip) that while the painted and glass surface was fine, the underlying board shelf was rotted and the entire rudder and rudder housing were in danger of breaking loose.
I will post some pictures of the broken parts, and "fixes" once I get back out to the boat again. After three months of cruising, once I got her home and safely tucked away I haven't even yet been aboard her again..... and her slip is behind the house.
Hey Jim, Thanks for the scoop. The shelf at the top of the rudder post looked ok, but I did not pay much attention to it. I will check it out again more thoroughly. The casting that holds the controls, except for the brake, is in good shape.
Wes has cable steering on his boat, that does not run through conduits. I talked with Scott this afternoon and asked if there was an upgrade from the conduits to the open cable steering. He said that he had never noticed. The only two steering problems that he had dealt with were the 'shelf' coming loose from the stern because of poor quality glass work (1 boat only). The second problem was a PVC rudder post..rather the pipe that contains the rudder post..later upgraded to stainless. It had worn through and he reinforced with fiberglass.
Thanks again for the tip, looking forward to seeing the pictures.
regards charlie
Finished up the steering rehab. While I was in the cockpit lockers thought that I would scrub them out. Waiting for them to dry out to reload then road test the new steering. I did not post any before pictures so here is one.
(http://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag383/deisher6/100_3326_zps48a06628.jpg) (http://s1373.photobucket.com/user/deisher6/media/100_3326_zps48a06628.jpg.html)
Note the corrosion on the compass cover, the pedestal was also chipped and corroded.
(http://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag383/deisher6/100_3574_zps79c74e9f.jpg) (http://s1373.photobucket.com/user/deisher6/media/100_3574_zps79c74e9f.jpg.html)
I replaced the guard mount with a chrome upgrade and replaced both the shift and throttle levers. Also replaced the compass and binnacle with a larger Ritchie DNP 200 that is lighted and a ss cover.
When I replaced the self steering control head, it was cheaper to buy the whole Raymarine self steering setup, so I installed the new wheel and steering motor mount. (The old one works fine if any body needs it?)
(http://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag383/deisher6/100_3579_zps987d22ad.jpg) (http://s1373.photobucket.com/user/deisher6/media/100_3579_zps987d22ad.jpg.html)
Some notes:
-If you have the cable/conduit steering system. Install the conduits to the steering box first. The cockpit drains preclude getting a wrench on the end connector nut, so you have to hold the nut as well as possible and turn the conduit to tighten the fitting. You can then hook the conduit up to the fitting at the base of the pedestal, then install and tighten the bolts that hold the pedestal to the cockpit deck.
-The steering cables enter the steering box at different levels and there are separate grooves on the quadrant that keep the cables from binding with each other. I had them crossed and there was a grinding sound as the rudder was moved from lock to lock.
-The original wheel bearing were toast. I really did not appreciate how bad they were until the unit was rebuilt. Definitely going to grease them every year or so. Edison recommends a monthly program!
-Replace the cables, conduits, sheaves, etc. with the same size that you are taking off. Edison does not have the specs for all versions of the C-27.
-I had the pedestal painted at an auto shop for 125$. I think that if I were to do it again I would have it power coated. It would run about the same price (or so local knowledge claims). It is a thought anyway. I am satisfied with the looks
-In mounting the compass, use bullet connectors close to the compass for the wiring. It took me to long to figure this out and in handling the compass a bubble appeared. It has reappeared and disappeared a couple of times. I do not know what to think of it yet.
-I mounted and used the emergency tiller to center the quadrant while I was tightening the cables. It was good to see how it fits. I thought that a longer tiller could be added. However the tiller on ours just clears the pedestal. Does anyone want to see a picture of the emergency tiller?
-The throttle lever has fast-slow directions on the top. Shift, throttle, Edison decals are available from Edison. They sent them along with the plastic bushings for the throttle and shifter for free, sort of. Total cost was around 1.2 boat units.
Wes and I are both happy that the wheel is centered when the rudder is midships. The wheel was about 3-4 degrees off to starboard. It is pretty easy to adjust the eyebolts on the quadrant to center the wheel.
Still have to road test the installation.
regards charlie (Who now too has rebuilt a steering system!)
Charlie - congrats on a complicated job well done. Looks sweet. Actually I think you made the right decision painting vs. powder coating, because the pedestal includes some cast aluminum parts that are notoriously difficult to powder coat without bubbling from outgassing. I know this from painful personal experience with the rudder mounts on my 19.
Ha, "1.2 boat units." I'll use that the next time I need to explain a Defender order to The Admiral.
Wes