I have to replace the backing plates for the outboard engine mount on my 19-2 as the ones that are presently there are, well, let's just say that they are decidedly less than adequate. I won't mention how sloppy they are either. As everyone has opinions and I noticed that there are several self-admitted engineers on the site, I put this question out to the general audience: should I go with one large square backing plate of 3/4" wood or two separate backing boards? And if I go the two separate boards route, should they be installed perpendicular or horizontal? (I am thinking about the engine's thrust here) If you are able to put in more than two cents worth of information, please don't expect any change; either that or it's a penny down and the chase is on...
Thanks in advance and I look forward to your input.
Elk River
I used a big plate of aluminum. I think it was more beneficial than 2 strips or what not.
On the outside I did space mine off the transom by about 1.5 inches, to help give room for the engine to tilt and not hit the stern rail.
Mac
What did you do for the outside spacer, Mac?
I found I can put a block of wood in the space to keep the motor tilted enough for the prop to be out of the water while at the dock; that might work for tilting motor when sailing, but hey, it might fall out, too.
My two cents, was both. I am just noticing I didn't take pictures of this...
I went with two horizontal boards on the inside and two vertical boards on the outside. And I didn't use wood, I went with cellular PVC boards. This was all due to finding out I had no backing on the original install of the mount. And going from the trolling motor to gas outboard meant weight and size was increased. I ended up with the motor mount raised up about an inch, out from the hull by 5/8", and this allows the motor to be tilted and not interfere with the new stern rails. Man, I really wish I had a picture.
Not much more engineering thought put into it. The transom is curved more vertically than horizontally on the 16, so the horizontal boards were easier to align inside after holes were drilled.
-Justin
BruceW
I used HDPE plastic, machined with some woodworking tools and a table saw.
I will look sometime and see if I have close ups of the backer plate and the plastic on the outside.
I also used 8 bolts to bolt mine up instead of the usual 4. It had 4 originally, but I went ahead and upgraded since the holes were there.
Mac
Cool, Mac.
I have a scrap of white plastic; it is not a regular shape, but could potentially be made into two spacers for the outside. I have been looking for something I can make a one-piece plate out of. I am sure I'll need longer bolts as well.