Hi,
First of all, I never used the battery for anything on my CP 19 1993-2000. Didn't have a system on the Suncat, so only used items that had their own batteries, 2000-2005. I think I anchored out a couple times with the Precision, didn't really interact with the battery, more like I did with Suncat, except I somewhere added one of those jumpstart batteries to charge some things, run a sirius radio, etc.
Nimby, my old Slipper 17 had no battery either.
So, get the picture of someone who has little or no experience with the 12 V system?
Now, with the CP 23, 1980 model, I know it has a battery, because we used it for the depth finder, figured out the running lights work, etc. I have a mast connector, and there's a connector in the sidewall of the gas tank area.
I have this boat in a slip, unlike my previous 20 years of trailersailing. I think I'll want some charging done. I can run a cord into the boat for a charger, but there's no shore power plug, or charger, etc on the boat.
Here's what I think I'd like to do:
a. Understand better what I actually have on the boat. I do have a multi meter, but I can't remember how it works. The guy who came with me on my transport said it worked, and he is the one who figured out the above info I put in. I don't have him around to ask, since he lives elsewhere, and is busy building his own house now.
b. add something to charge the battery (I don't know what the battery is, but am going to the boat tomorrow, so can look at things).
c. add a receptacle or several so I can plug in 12-volt stuff I have: radio, fan, charge my phone, maybe add reading lights, etc.
d. what else? I have no idea what I might like to add, but I'm into keeping it simple if possible.
So, recommendations on how to get some knowledge? I found this book online, thought it might be good: http://www.amazon.com/Boatowners-Illustrated-Electrical-Handbook-Charlie/dp/0071446443/ref=pd_sim_b_1
Thanks in advance for any insights, suggestions, etc.
Bruce
Bruce:
That book looks good. Try this one also, I have used it in the rewiring of my 23:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_sabc?url=search-alias%3Daps&pageMinusResults=1&suo=1390172023843#/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_0_14?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=sailboat%20electrics%20simplified&sprefix=sailboat+elect%2Caps%2C272&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Asailboat%20electrics%20simplified
Remember to use only marine wire and fittings. Don't scrimp in this area or it will come back to haunt you.
Bob23
Thanks, Bob! I have used Don Casey info before, and he's terrific! I might get his book too. I need a lot of splaining!
I appreciate the wire info; I'm in agreement. I'd like this done right (haha, if I can) and certainly will use the best stuff.
Bruce
Just ordered the book, thanks.........nies
Pick up a copy of 'The Nature of Boats'.
skip.
Bruce:
As I mentioned, I rewired my 23 after she first aquired me 8 years ago. I moved the main panel to the starboard side, just forward of hatchboard wall. What I learned mostly was to plan, plan , and then plan some more. Making a list of anything that you could possibly want to add electrically was helpful and drawing out a schematic really helped in the final execution. In my project, I included a main battery switch, something I felt was indispensable.
Some of the electrical items I have are and Icom VHF radio with Commandmike, A Garmin GPS, an electric bilge pump, a small solar panel with controller that I'll be upgrading this winter, a 12v outlet to charge a phone, etc., and the factory interior lights and nav, anchoring and steaming lights, all of which have been upgraded to LED.
So, take your time, plan it out thoroughly and use only the best wires and fittings. I sail in salt water so this is essential. Being the type to go to the extremes in quality work, I've had no problems other than some minor corrosion is one of my original Perko nav lights. I'm not an electrician by trade but I felt the 23 was worthy of a top notch job.
Have fun!
Bob23
Thanks for the book tip, Skip; looks like a cool one I should get.
Bob23, again, I appreciate the comments! I took some photos of the various elements of the current "system." There is a control board which has switches for various things. The Miscellaneou is apparently the depth guage. There's one more spot for something else.
What was interesting is that each thing seems to separately go back to the battery; there are like 6 sets of little wire ends on top of each other on the terminals, har har har.
Also, something interesting. You know the fitting the mast lights go into there at the deck? Well, there's another one just like it back at the stern, under that gas tank cover. I wonder what I could plug into that.
Anyway, maybe this evening or tomorrow I'll practice posting pictures and get some into this thread for comments.
I am interested in that solar charger; found one online that has its own safety gizmo. It seems like putting it on the top of the front hatch would have it need a looooooong cord to attach to my battery.
Well, that's all I got for now.
Bruce
Pictures of your current setup would help so we would know the starting point.
The connector in the gas tank area could be for the starter or alternator wiring to the motor. That is where mine is routed and I installed a quick disconnect so I could remove the motor more easily. If your current motor does not have electric start or a charging alternator, maybe a past motor did.
If you have a switch plate, but everything from there goes directly to the battery, that is kind of a mess, you might need to install a main switch and put a couple of buss bars close to the switch plate and just have one lead to and from the battery. That is excepting the bilge pump if you have one with an auto setting, that should always go direct with an inline fuse.
If you choose to install AC shore power so you can charge you should read this thread so you can understand the issues. Even the Casey book is outdated relative to some of the info in the thread. If you have any conductive material from your boat to the water, you should follow the current ABYC standards. However, your usage profile may indicate solar and that would be a simpler and less expensive install than doing shore power from scratch in a manner that meets the standards.
Keep in mind that routing an extension cord into the boat, while in the water, to run a portable charger with no ELCI or GFCI protection does not meet the standard and is inherently dangerous to you and others.
http://cpyoa.geekworkshosting.com/forum/index.php?topic=7038.0
Thanks, Brackish,
I think that gas-tank area fitting might work for the connection from the motor (Tohatsu 6 hp came with a cable that doesn't have that end on it, but otherwise would reach there). The included cable is not long enough to reach to the battery. I'll have to check that out.
Back to charging, etc, I feel like I should get one of those flexible solar deals that has its own controller and just needs to plug in. I'll figure out whether I should use the deck mounted connection (well, if I used the one for the mast, I'd have to turn on the switch for those lights for it to work), or just run the included cable back from wherever I put the charger to the battery.
I think that after the standard lights were put on the boat at the factory, all the new stuff was just run directly: radio, depth gauge primarily, and perhaps that stern fitting as well. I'd probably want to re-do those at the time I added a charging receptacle.
Bruce:
You definitely don't want a million wires running back to the battery. I used pretty heavy cable with the negative going to a buss bar and the positive going to the battery switch. Or something like that. I only have 2 wires that don't go through the panel boax- the bilge pump automatic line and a red LED cockpit light which is on it's own waterproof switch so I can turn it on at night without going in the cabin to turn on the battery switch. However, both have thier own fuses. Make sure everything is fused. Everything. Boat fires are not fun.
The only change I may make is to fuse the main positive cable from the battery before it gets to the switch.
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt260/Bob23_photo/Koinonia%20interior/12008panel02.jpg) (http://s617.photobucket.com/user/Bob23_photo/media/Koinonia%20interior/12008panel02.jpg.html)
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt260/Bob23_photo/Koinonia%202012/Koinoniacockpitlight.jpg) (http://s617.photobucket.com/user/Bob23_photo/media/Koinonia%202012/Koinoniacockpitlight.jpg.html)
Very cool, Bob! I like that led light; is that so you can develop pictures in the cockpit?
I can hardly wait till I get my electrickery (stole that from someone on this site) book, so I know what you are talking about! Seriously, I do think some folks just did quick and dirty wiring, which I am not in favor of. My switch box probably needs to be replaced with one that has more items possible to list, so things are separated on their own "line" and each thing has a fuse.
I added two outlets for autopilot and GPS to my SunCat last summer. Bought wire through West Marine, that stuff is really pricey. Is there something from the hardware store that would do the job and save me a few bucks?
Quote from: rogerschwake on January 22, 2014, 09:16:45 AM
I added two outlets for autopilot and GPS to my SunCat last summer. Bought wire through West Marine, that stuff is really pricey. Is there something from the hardware store that would do the job and save me a few bucks?
Best place I've found for marine grade electrical components. Problem is selection is somewhat limited, however, they are adding stuff all the time.
http://www.genuinedealz.com/
Don't use hardware store or big box stuff. In my most humble opinion, you'll regret it. I do sail in salt water so marine stuff is a must. I bought most of my stuff from the local and very small but very competitive boat shop here in my town. It's a little mom and pop shop but they are so efficient that Boaters World, a chain, decided not to open up a shop here.
Bob23
Roger - you're right about Worst Marine. They charge full retail list price for everything.
As Bob said, don't go to the hardware store. Buy marine grade, but from a local store or online outlet that doesn't have the words "West" or "Marine" in the title. My personal favorite is Defender - www.defender.com. Excellent prices, wide selection, great customer service from real people, and they also have a brick and mortar store in Connecticut if you prefer. Highly recommended.
Wes
regarding LED lights, can I use the ones I see at Home Depot and Lowes that replace, say, a 40 watt bulb?
I did buy some of my stuff from Defender...they are indeed great! Super fast shipping and a very easy to use website. I try to stay away from West Marine...and the local one around these parts doesn't carry much sailboat stuff. I doubt that the HD LED lights are 12volt but I can't say for sure. The HD near my house doesn't carry anything I use on the boat.
I also found some interesting things here:
http://www.duckworksbbs.com/
Bob23
Here's a picture of part of my wiring. Might take me a bit to get all the ones in here:
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p681/brucewoods2/com-pac%2023/D14E8E2D-B753-400C-A4B0-EBC206E0228D_zpsrjtvd9sw.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/brucewoods2/media/com-pac%2023/D14E8E2D-B753-400C-A4B0-EBC206E0228D_zpsrjtvd9sw.jpg.html)
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p681/brucewoods2/com-pac%2023/29307261-5073-40DB-B2B6-F548901033D8_zpsplbckcql.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/brucewoods2/media/com-pac%2023/29307261-5073-40DB-B2B6-F548901033D8_zpsplbckcql.jpg.html)
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p681/brucewoods2/com-pac%2023/2F5FFD56-71DB-4D0E-BD81-9CBC5637C9C9_zpsuqq57v0f.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/brucewoods2/media/com-pac%2023/2F5FFD56-71DB-4D0E-BD81-9CBC5637C9C9_zpsuqq57v0f.jpg.html)
(http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p681/brucewoods2/com-pac%2023/ADA3E66A-AEAF-4349-9932-43B80D158C36_zpsvyqgcvr5.jpg)[/URL
[URL=http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/brucewoods2/media/com-pac%2023/69B73188-60E9-4967-AA6E-BB21F5505456_zpsmxroglqd.jpg.html](http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p681/brucewoods2/com-pac%2023/69B73188-60E9-4967-AA6E-BB21F5505456_zpsmxroglqd.jpg) (http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/brucewoods2/media/com-pac%2023/ADA3E66A-AEAF-4349-9932-43B80D158C36_zpsvyqgcvr5.jpg.html)
Thanks for all the help everybody. I checked the prices at Genuine Dealz, there prices are half of what I paid. Here in Iowa there are few boat shops and none that know anything about boats flying all those rags from a fence post in the middle of there boat. I have to buy all my boat things off the net, hard to do when you can't pick them up and look at them. I'll be adding another sight to my favorites list, thanks again everyone.
Some comments on the posted pictures and associated thoughts, including two ABYC tips of the day!
ABYC 1) no more than four connections to any one stud (be it a battery or anything else).
ABYC 2) over current protection (fuse, breaker, etc) must be located within SEVEN INCHES of the source of power (read positive battery terminal). You can extend that up to 72" with supports, sheathing, et cetera but those are all variances from the rule which is SEVEN INCHES.
And it's Home Depot, not Boat Depot. They've got nothing that'll pass muster. Sure, they may even have LED bulbs (but not in the sizes you need), but remember back to why LED took 3-5 years to work the bugs out = VIBRATION. We're not on boats that go 40mph & jump off waves, but they do move, and LED bulbs don't like that, unless specially constructed. Wire? Same problem. Heavy stiff romex cracks and breaks. Auto wire (SAE) is more finely stranded to absorb road shock and movement. Marine wire is even more finely stranded (read more flexible) and usually TINNED to prevent corrosion.
ABYC Bonus round = the battery must be restrained so as to not move more than 1" in any direction when 90lbs of force are applied in any direction for one minute. Provision must be made for retention/collection of spilled electrolyte (tray or box, without holes in the bottom including screws unless sealed); and connections to battery may not use wing nuts if the battery exceeds 800CCA (real nut with lock washer if greater than 800CCA).
Over 80% of the boat fires are electrical in nature. 100% of boat fires are self extinguishing at the water line. I had a hacksaw fall on a battery once, joining the terminals. Burnt through the blade like a fuse. But not before melting the cap off the can of WD-40 right next to it, with sufficient remaining spark to ignite the rapidly escaping WD-40 contents. All in the back of a GMC Yukon I still own and drive. And there was a fire extinguisher right next to those tools too, but it wouldn't be exaggeration if I told you I probably chucked that battery 40' after hurling that WD-40 40 yards! Spooky scary (yes, I witnessed this event in the rear view mirror having safely travelled 4 miles on paved roads and just turned into a bumpy dirt driveway); had to park in the middle of a field, open the back, and separate the "combustibles" by hand...
Thank you, Moonlight! I did find out why I shouldn't use the HD bulbs I saw; the boat ones are a bit more expensive, but why not get the ones that work, and also last, huh.
Also, about the wiring; I sure was not impressed with it. I think it started out okay, but then as POs added stuff, they did so haphazardly.
Do you feel like doing any moonlighting down this way when I get going on the fixes?
BTW, that's a very good story about surviving the battery mis-hap; glad you made it!
Bruce
I am wondering if I should consider this supplier, since they put a lot of things together that a newbie to electrickery (Peter, great term) like me can use.
Sure, there are likely some areas where I'd need to change what their stuff connects to, but I'm thinking the central unit and wiring harness, plus the lead back to the battery are the prime things I need.
I'm not planning a separate electric bilge pump, but I would have a solar charger that needs to connect to battery.
Here's the link: http://www.ezacdc.com/boat-wiring-products/marine-electrical-switch-panels/eight-switch-panel/
I'm still waiting for my textbook to arrive at B&N, but I'd love the simplicity of using the above products. Thanks for any input.
Bruce
Don't buy anything yet. read the electrickery book, figure out what you want to change or add, design your system on paper, run your design by us here on the forum, then buy the needed supplies. It's not hard to install wiring correctly, the book will teach you how.
I wouldn't even consider the exacdc stuff. Only a few inexpensive specialized tools are needed (voltmeter, wire stripper, connector pliers) to rig a wire to a connector, and that's the only advantage I see to it. A nicely done connector only takes a minute or two once you know how (including heat shrink tubing).
Based on your picture, IMO, you need an everything must go sale (except the battery if it's serviceable) and the actual appliances (like nav or cabin lights) if you are Ok with them. All that wiring is auto grade, unknown location of fuses, too many connectors on the battery, and poorly done (duct tape?) wiring connections. Rip it out and start over.
This stuff is not too hard once you learn a little about it. That book will do wonders to your knowledge and understanding of how to make a very safe, functional and reliable system.
Thanks, Salty,
That's what I was looking for; I really don't know what I'm going to know until I know it. I'm thinking I'll ease up on next steps as you suggest, until I know more about the subject, and then make a plan.
I've decided I'll want the cabin lights to be LED; I may also decide to change out the other lights as well. Heck, I don't use the lights much. I do think I'll want aux cigarette lighter type plugs to charge things from, etc.
Looks to me like the stuff I have is standby stuff, and if I don't have to use it, I'll be better off researching and deciding the next plan. I certainly wouldn't mind replacing things with better stuff.
Regards,
Bruce
It is my understanding that its not a good idea to mix LED and conv. bulbs on same circuit as the LED take lower voltage than reg. bulbs and the LED will burn out.......................nies
You may be right; my first LEDs would be the cabin lights, which I think are a separate circuit. However, based on my new plan, I'll be reading up on things first, deciding on a plan, and then see what parts I'll need to implement the plan.
I could see a complete re-do as one possibility.
Bruce:
One word of caution. Make sure you can see the actual LED you plan to install. Some of them are a very harsh bright white to be pleasing. If you've seen ultra white LED christmas lights, you know the color.
I found some of my bulbs here:
http://www.superbrightleds.com/#
There is information on color, brightness and bulb size.
Bob23
Very good point, Bob, and thanks for the link. I know there has been a lot of evolution in the LED lights, and they are expensive enough to make me want to get it right.
I was thinking LEDs for cabin lights, not sure if I need/want to replace other lights until they need it. The cabin lights didn't work, so I figured it was the bulb. I just ready the chapter on the multimeter though, so maybe I should practice and check that circuit!
Wow this book is killing me; math, formulas, haha. I'll have to take notes! Oh, and I found this online resource that also helps:
http://newboatbuilders.com/pages/electricity5.html I read up to page 5 last night.
Yep, I ordered the Don Casey book too. Maybe a zillion times through all this I'll get the picture!
Bruce
My initial reaction to the light issue was that I should run out and change every light on the boat, both external and internal, to LED in order to save power. The cost of doing that right would have been hundreds of dollars. I'm glad I didn't. After owning the boat for several years and looking at my "usage profile" I determined that with the incandescent I can't use up the existing battery reserve even on my longest cruises which have been about 4 days. Even having some real power hogs like a tiller pilot and pressure water installed, it hasn't been a problem.
The only concession I made to LED's was to buy a cheap LED lantern to use as an anchor light. Not exactly COLREG legal, but in my case, usually anchored in tree lined coves where the masthead anchor light is not visible to traffic, it is a much better practical solution to hoist it up partially so it can actually be seen. I do use the masthead when in open water.
I will change things to LED as they go out, but not make it a mass project.
So look at how you use the boat, what you will have as charging capability, and maybe you can save your "boat bucks" for more needed items. The one piece of advice I'll give is if you have flooded batteries that require inspection and maintenance, check them regularly. I know from experience they will not hold a charge or have a long life if the plates are not covered. :'(
BTW, the link from your last post not working for me. Maybe modify the message and remove the semi colon?
Brackish,
I'm evolving my thinking in your direction already. I do need to have some of those cigarette plug receptacles for things like a fan, charging my various other things that need it, plugging in my solar charger etc. If my cabin lights turn out to be the bulbs, I'll get a couple LED ones and see how they work.
I will give the above more thought, but I think a couple in the cabin and a separate one that the solar charger can reach from it's anticipated spot on front hatch.
Oh, and I fixed the link.
Bruce
Brack has a very good point. My LED priorty was the anchor light and nav lights. One thing no one ever seems to talk about concerning LED's is that a nearby lightning strike may fry the circuit boards of the LED. It doesn't need to be a direct strike, just close enough to cause a surge. A regular bulb is a no brainer. There was mention of this in a recent Good Old Boat mag. I just decided to go LED because some of the lights were ready for replacement anyway.
Bob23
Regarding electrical subject. I've got a trickle charger hooked up to my battery for the winter. Is it necessary to keep the vent caps off the battery at all times?
Joe B
CP 23
Lewis Center, OH
Citi853 asks --> " Is it necessary to keep the vent caps off the battery at all times? "
No. That's why these are called vent caps.
Take it from a guy who has de-gassed a very nice and strong battery into a slug of dried crystals and lead incased in plastic box using a cheap solar cell uncontrolled making 19 volts and 300 milliamps for one summer. I am removing the solar cell from my boat for next season.
Had I been diligent and added R/O water [reverse osmosis] keeping the battery cells under water I might have saved the battery. Forget it. Don't need the hassle.
The darn cell has never kept up with the use of the battery on a three day cruise. Even with 100% LED lamps, an extra bulkhead mounted LED red lamp, a compass light, a ST-40 instrument, the big draw was the 435i chartplotter, a VHS radio and a am/fm/dvd player with only two speakers. I don't turn any of this c**p on. Just enjoy sailing with one Davis anchor light on when anchored out for the night. BTW, I wired in an on-off switch to the eye so it won't burn at night while sitting at the dock.
When the battery needs a charge I just plug in my battery charger dockside and set her on 2 amps for two days.
skip.
Thanks, Skip. Your advise is very much appreciated.
Joe B
So, to keep my battery charged, I decided I'd rather copy the solar charge ideas of folks on here, as opposed to go to the shore power route, which I think is also something I may try down the road, but don't need now.
To connect my solar charger I need a cigarette lighter receptacle like this:
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=92813&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=50523&subdeptNum=50529&classNum=50530#
So, with photos above, or maybe info not shown there, what would you do?
a. take off some stuff that is on the battery now, and add the above receptacle there?
b. add it to the control panel in the slot for ACC? (haha, Mizzou is in SEC, but I'm a faninlaw of two ACC teams)
c. try to hook this up where the mast lights connect via some kind of adapter?
d. other?
I guess I would just like to get this going, without screwing up something else, while I learn and decide how to re-do the chickenshit wiring that's aboard now.
Thanks!
Bruce
I bought my ss 'cig' lighter female receptacle from AutoZone and mounted that with a fuse into the cockpit on the bulkhead below the drop boards.
I can plug my cell phone charger in to it. Or a light. To be truthful I don't ever use he son of a gun. I should have forgot the idea all together.
skip.
<Sound of an LP record needle scraping over the vinyl>
Skip, you've got to be kidding. You fry your battery because your setup is poorly designed and dangerous, then recommend the same setup for others, after we have gone over this several times here on the forum as to why not to do what you're doing.
Solar chargers should NOT be connected directly to the battery. Ever. This is exactly why skip fried his battery. It was taking in too much voltage during periods of peak solar panel output, and he didn't know it was putting out higher voltage than what the battery can accept. Last time I checked, a 12V battery cannot take 17Volts without damage. In fact most of them will not want more than 14.7 as a charge current (depends on the battery). The excess charge/heat lowered the water level then guess what, no more battery charge.
Solar chargers MUST USE a voltage controller designed for solar. The solar panel connects to the controller, the controller connects to the battery or + buss strip. The controller limits the voltage input into the battery (steps it down from 16-20v to 14-ish depending on the battery and controller) so you don't fry the battery.
Plugging them into a 12V cigarette lighter outlet that is wired hot the battery is a definitely no-no, it will apply the higher voltage and quickly make death of the battery (in direct sunlight). Well, if it's a small panel, it will be a slow death (as the case of skips battery). This not only wastes money but the battery could of exploded, sending corrosive, acidic electrolyte all over the place.
At minimum, based on your photos Tiger you will want a fuse/switch panel, new marine wiring with terminal connectors, solar panel, charge controller, mounting board, wire routing clips (or C-cut wood to capture the wire) and any appliances you want. The charge controller is interesting as you can get them to accept more than one input, so if you add a second solar panel, or a wind generator and a solar panel, if you get the right one it can control both. You'll probably want a master cutoff switch too.
Don't hook up more than one thing to a fuse unless they both are low draw items (for example a cig lighter that would charge your phone and a VHF radio). If the appliance must work for safety sake or is high draw, do not share the fuse (like on a bilge pump or a 12VDC to 120AC converter).
Read that book and do nothing until you have a FULL vetted plan. Bulbs are fine to purchase now. Right now your wire looks questionable (auto grade), the connector spider web to the battery is a mess and the wires are not routed or secured well, and there is no central fuse box or way to protect the battery terminals from being connected together (like accidentally dropping the winch handle on it) which could be fatal to you or cause a fire.
Sorry if I'm coming off as a jerk here but it grinds my gears to see information given out that is faulty and dangerous.
"Sorry if I'm coming off as a jerk here but it grinds my gears to see information given out that is faulty and dangerous."
I agree with Salty19 on keeping things safe and doing it right as I am sure most know on here, I am really picky about that sort of thing.
A few things I have seen on Solar panels are this controller setup, and a panel with a built in solar controller. Without it, you will slowly bake the battery.
Auto chargers will do the same when the battery goes bad. They read off of a peak, and so the charger constantly tries to get the battery to peak voltage which is impossible when the battery is bad, as it is incapable of achieving the voltage.
There is only a few scenarios (correct me if I am wrong) that a battery ends up going bad. Age, Overcharge, drying out, and undercharging or killing it constantly.
There are a few ways to revive a battery, which can be found in good electrical books that describe the process in detail.
A side note on the Solar, they do make them where they connect to the 12 cig outlet to charge that battery supplying the cig outlet. I have seen them, and sold them. They are just a simpler way to go.
It is best you talk to someone who has the utmost knowledge in the subject like a rep or someone who is in that field, or has a very successful system already in place. If you have a brand you wish to buy I would probably call them and get the info direct from the source.
Frying a battery in a boat and degassing it into your interior is a bad deal, and hard to repair the stink after the problem..... It can kill you according to my chemist friend who has now changed the marina's response plan through his knowledge passed to me and into our weekly safety meetings.
We get one a year at the marina minimum. Some are uneventful, others are a big deal.
Anyway, do research, and paper plans. I and I am sure a few others will be glad to ensure your plan is not over-thought, which is easy to do, and well planned for your application. And couple that with knowledge from different boat related manuals related to boat wiring I think you will have a vast knowledge to tackle this problem head on.
With poor information and lack of detail, you will end up with a nicer version of what you are currently dealing with, and no one wants that, which is something I and several on here strive to help people avoid........
I wish to make one recommendation, which is what I do currently. I use a Schumacher auto charger from Wal-Mart, that plugs into a regular outlet, that charges my Group 31 DEEP cycle battery. When I am prepping the boat I plug it in depending on how much I have used it. For me I can use it several times before each charge, and the charger gives me a readout of 0 to 100 as far as battery life goes when It starts to charge it up.
That is a simple process, nothing extra and easily maintained...... No overcharging because I am always right there. and no extra FIXED items on the boat to be messing with.
Just my suggestion.
Mac :D
Salyt19-->" Skip, you've got to be kidding. You fry your battery because your setup is poorly designed and dangerous, then recommend the same setup for others, after we have gone over this several times here on the forum as to why not to do what you're doing. <--
What??? Re-read this.--> "Take it from a guy who has de-gassed a very nice and strong battery into a slug of dried crystals and lead incased in plastic box using a cheap solar cell uncontrolled making 19 volts and 300 milliamps for one summer. I am removing the solar cell from my boat for next season."<--
When did I say, ... "recommend the same setup for others" in this string of posts? ... I'm agreeing with you ... Don't do what I did. It's a warning. Slow down and read the post for what it is. Not what you 'skimmed it to be'.
skip.
thanks, Skip, Macguyver and Salty.
I am certainly not proceeding at this point.
Here's the panel I got, which I thought would take care of the controller situation. Perhaps I misunderstood the info:
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|328|2290044|2290049&id=1802131
anyway, I'm still reading and thinking. Got plenty of time to do things, since I am really just trying to understand and take care of the battery I have.
Bruce
Mea Culpa, Skip I did read it too quick. The mention of the auto zone cig outlet rather then a charge controller led me to believe that's how you were suggesting attaching the solar panel. Most marine type panels would not have the controller built in to limit voltage for delivery into the system. :-[ I hope I didn't offend you or anyone else; whenever one is messing with several hundred amps of battery as you know we need to be clear what to do and not do.