Ok, you have a twenty something year old boat and sometimes you look at the other guy's shiny new sailboat and think to yourself, 'hmmm.' Well, here is the lazy man's tips for getting the shiny new boat without the boat payment.
When I bought my 19 back in 2004 the gelcoat was a chalky mess. I was excited to use a compounding wheel with a mild compound and then again with a wheel put on some nice coats of wax. Well, forget about it!
I compounded and compounded and ended up with a pink colored chalky mess ground into a faded gelcoat. Then I had to remove the compound and then try to wax. The result was dissappointing. I made due that first year with an old 1983 boat, gelcoat long since past.
Then, not satisfied with this sad state of affairs I researched all the products out there. I stripped the boat and scrubbed and got it clean.
I found something called VertGlass gel coat restorer.
I followed the directions and what a miracle. Its super easy and when you're done you can see your reflection like in a mirror.
This season I washed the boat, and to my amazement the shine was still there. I touched up the dings and scratches, replaced some pinstripe.
I put on another coat of VertGlass just for fun from what was left in the bottle. Let it dry and an hour later I put on the Turtle wax Express shine. Super easy!
It is so fast to keep your boat looking factory shiny this way that you wont dread cleaning. The wax is probably only good for a couple of months but it is so easy it takes about ten minutes.
I used Penetrol on my Teak because the layers of poly that I have put down before always chip off after a few months and looks terrible. When the teak looks dingy I clean it with teak brightener and put on another coat of Penetrol. I used the Penetrol on my rub rail and it put on a super shine.
I put on the Turtle Express Shine spray wax on all the anodized spars and stanchions and made them look nice.
The other thing that works great is a spray bottle of Clorox cleaner with bleach. It took the mildew and mold off everything. It cleaned the woodwork and the cabin top with one wipe. Inside the lockers and under the sliding compainonway had mildewed a little. Took it right off.
Use a wood polish and the mahogony inside glows.
Also, Murrays has a spray paint line called Duplicolor. They have a color called Wimbeldon White (the same color my '65 Mustang was) that is a perfect match for the Com-Pac gelcoat if you're desperate in wanting to fix something. I painted my old Johnson outboard and it blends into the boat better. It was sea green and I hated it.
They have a brown mettallic paint that is an exact match for the sheer line stripe on the Com-Pac. I'll get the number if anyone wants it.
A nice trick for shabby looking rub rails is a black bumper paint from Murray's. It smooths out the scruff and brings back some life to the rails.
I have learned some trick for about everything because these old boats either need complete refitting or if you're on a budget some cosmetic fixes.
Let me know what your quandry is, and maybe I have the five dollar solution.
My white gel coat is fine, but the brown upper band, shear stripe, is chalky and only cleans up so so with compound and wax, looking bad again half way through the season.
Where did you get the VertiGlass? Also the bumper paint?
Great advice you provided. I am all set to compount and then wax this year with Mother's Gold wax as recommended by Skip.
Hey Gil,
Sorry, I spelled Vertglass wrong. Its Vertglass. Look it up on line. I bought it at my local Marine supply store. You can buy it online too. It was $79 but a lot cheaper than a professional polishing or a paint job.
I got the black bumper paint in a spray can from my local Auto parts store. One spray can is plenty.
I'll post the paint code for the sheer stripe paint tommorrow. It came from the Auto parts store as well.
The Vertglass product made the waterline stripe shine. I just went over it when I did the hull.
Another trick I have learned is to use SnoBowl gel toilet bowl cleaner. Its $1.99 at the grocery store. A bottle will do the whole boat. Just squeeze it on above the scale deposits. Then scrub with a brush, just a little, then run around and squirt it off with a hose. Ready for your favorite boat wash.
Here's the paint code for the Com-Pac Sheer stripe I used. This may not be a perfect match for old faded sheer stripe, so test and make sure you like it.
It would be best to do the whole area and it will require 4 - 5oz. cans. prep with a wash, 400 wet dry paper to give some grip, then a wax and grease remover wipe down. mask and spray.
Dupli-Color
Auto Spray
DSFM 153 Dark Brown M
It is a dark root beerish brown with micro metallic finish.
You will need to spray on several light coats to cover. Too light a mist and you will end up with poor gloss, too heavy and you get runs.
I bought mine at Murray's Auto supply, but this brand is carried at most stores as OEM touch up paints.
Marcus, great hints for shiny gel coat. I too was disappointed in the gel coat on my cp27, 1992 vintage. I tried buffing, I tried 3M polish cleaner but I'm using Polyglow and getting the same results as you.
Polyglow and Vertglass are acrylic compounds exactly the same as Future floor wax and other one-step quick dry liquid waxes. The way they work is to fill the tiny cracks and crevices so light reflects instead of diffusing. The Polyglow comes with a special cleaner that along with a 3M scuff pad takes all the oxidized coating off, then start wiping on the acrylic finish.
This is my first year and it's advertized to last one year, then just wash, dry and recoat. It will come off with ammonia or the special cleaner if needed but I must say the results are amazing. Much easier and a better look than rubbing and rubbing as you said.
I've had poor results on fiberlass with Penetrol but I've never thought of doing the teak with it.
Great post, thanks for the ideas.
Steve Paul
cp27/2
IM PAUL SIVE
Thanks for the restoration ideas Marcus. Do you know if there is a color for the gold stripe used on the early hulls? Thanks, Steve
Hi Steve
Yes, you can get gold pin stripe in 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" at your local Auto parts store.
I just went over my faded original pin stripe.
I think there are many variants of pin striping over the various model years. Its your boat, do what you think looks good.
Also, when I converted my 19 to a 19II I used the pin stripe as a guide to paint the brown sheer which meant I lost my original ComPac logo.
I ordered a 19II type ComPac logo from Overtons.com.
Mine is in gold and is a little bigger than stock.
I'll take a picture of that area and post it.
I used auto store pinstriping to freshen up my 1990 CP16 when I bought it several years ago. This stuff works great.
On a related topic - the aluminum spars . . .any suggestions for getting black marks off the anodized aluminum without damaging the anodizing!
Well you only can wax it if the gel coat is good. Other wise I like that VERTGLASS idea. skip. Thanx.
Yeah, you're right. The Vertglass or polyglo gives a nice shine. But going over the Vertglass with a couple coats of wax makes the finish smoother and creamier.
It also adds a smoothness to the touch that I like.
Waxing a smooth gelcoat is a pleasure, whereas trying to wax a chalky gelcoat is like fingernails on a chalkboard.
It's still alittle cool here for sailing but the docks are now floating in the water and things are looking up. What about resizing photos/ Any easy way to do that? skip. I went to school in Ann Arbor. Lived in Jackson. skip
Hi Skip,
Resizing photos is easy once you become familiar with the program. The problem is most Photo Shop type programs are so good they can do everything 6 ways. This is great once you are a master but when you're first starting out just trying to do something simple it can be frustrating.
In Photo Shop you go to file, open, browse your image from whatever file its in. Go to Help, scroll down to 'resize image'. I usually select 600 pixels as my width and let the height fall where it may. Save for the web as a jpeg.
Or, send me your photo and I'll size it for you. I can post it if you like.
Lately, my business has been very good and as you can tell I have extra time on my hands.
Gil,
You might try one of the products for vinyl or flooring to remove black shoe scuff marks. Might be worth a try. Let us know if you learn something from this.
Steve Paul
cp27/2
IM PAUL SIVE
I also mad a mess with reddish brown compound. it found its way into the porus oxidized gelcoat.
Help was to be found at a nearby boat repair shop. They told me to get a dewalt varible speed polisher and the correct cutting solutions. My tryout spot (gas can cover on 23/3) went well. It takes a powerful polisher (1,000 - 3,000 rpm) to cut the top layer. I sanded out deep scratches with 220, 400, and 600 grit sand paper.
With the polisher at 1600 rpm, constantly moving and bearing down, it did the job. Without wax, it looks and smells new. And no swrill marks!
For the dozen or so small gelcoat cracks, I sent the cover to Mini Craft of Florida for an exact gelcoat match. I will report on that later.
Ramble On
Well now, the Vertglass sounds like a great idea for the smooth stuff, what do you guys use for the non-skid. My 87 CP23/II non skid is looking really bad. Also, the floor stuff that someone else mentioned, has anybody tried that, or is there some sort of UV additive to Vertglass?
I hope to work some this weekend on mine and get it into the water sometime next week.
Greg
Complements to Kirk for a lot of work well done. Nice change here.
I have a '92 CP with grey non-skid and it looks a little dirty now and then but what I do to keep it looking nice is to use a hand brush with a good cleaner. I also am using an Aurora Marine products product ( say that 10 times real fast). THe product is "Shure Step" a paste wax that gets less slippery when wet. Works pretty well and seems to keep the non-slip looking ok. Since the non-slip on CP's is molded in at time of manufacture drastic steps would need to be taken to change it. I suppose painting with non-slip grit would work but might not be esthetic enough for most of us. I'd like to hear more from those who've made this journey.
The Vertiglass or Polyglow does have a UV retardant added. You could use Venture floor finish or another brand but without the UV additive it would not last very long. I like the idea of waxing over the Polyglow. Think I'll try it. For what it's worth I'm trying to find out what the UV additive is in Polyglow, then you could add this to a less expensive acrylic floor wax and same some dough.
The one thing that I liked about Polyglow was the initial cleaning fluid, man it takes the oxidized fiberglass off the gelcoat very well and easily. Probably should have buffed from there but didn't. Am very happy with Polyglow but it's early in the season.
Steve
cp27/2
IM PAUL SIVE
Dupont white polishing compound easily took away the black marks. I used Mother's Gold wax on top and the boat looks fine!
I don't think you could use the vertglass on the non-skid. The applicator is intended for a smooth surface and lays down a thin film which flows down even smoother. You could try it.
After cleaning up my boat this spring the non-skid just got a scrub and wash. It isn't going to shine because of the texture. I didn't put anything on the non-skid. The boat looks great with the gelcoat vertglassed and waxed, all the trim washed, oiled and polished. The non-skid does its job best if you just wash it and scrub off any soil, mildew, or whatever.
You can paint your non-skid to freshen it up. There is a dialogue on that topic in the 19 section.
Hi Guys... wish I'd read this a couple of years ago when I was "de-chalking" my 16 yr old (at the time) '88 - 16. I got a couple of bottles of StarBrite compound and StarBrite teflon polish from West Marine and went at it.
Great results but not as easy sounding as the Vertglass treatment...
In my research for a restoration treatment I came across a few interesting treatments... but since my hull wasn't that far gone I didn't use them. I'd be interested to know if anyone has tried the following... for archival purposes. Their stuff seems pretty amazing.
http://www.islandgirlproducts.com/
great article (http://com-pacowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=689.msg3367#msg3367), mgoller. wanting to help, here's a product list of mentioned items needed items, taken from the suggestions provided in this thread.
(info added from a similar thread:
Keep your Com Pac Yacht clean (http://com-pacowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=53.0))
updated 20060706summary:
Woodwork:
- Semco :: says Bruce Woods (http://com-pacowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=53.msg546#msg546)
- Aurora Synthetic Oil :: says spaul (http://com-pacowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=53.msg547#msg547)
- Penetrol :: says mgoller (http://com-pacowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=689.msg3367#msg3367)
- wood polish for inside mahogany
- Lemon or Orange Oil for inside :: says Bruce Woods (http://com-pacowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=53.msg546#msg546)
Gelcoat:
repair:
- Evercoat Marine Match and Patch from West Marine :: says dgholmes (http://com-pacowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=375.0#msg1551")
clean:
- Simple Green - biodegradable & non-toxic :: says Gil Weiss (http://com-pacowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=53.msg82#msg82)
- Soft Scrub with Bleach :: says Gil Weiss (http://com-pacowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=53.msg82#msg82)
- A liquid toilet bowl cleaner, will clean hull, removes scale :: says CaptK (http://com-pacowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=53.msg164#msg164)
- Oxalic acid, brightens gelcoat, removes stains (read post link on where to find for best price) :: says CaptK (http://com-pacowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=53.msg164#msg164)
- 3M Fiberglass Cleaner and Restorer :: says CaptK (http://com-pacowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=53.msg543#msg543)
- Vertglass :: says mgoller (http://com-pacowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=689.msg3367#msg3367)
- PoliGlow
- Turtle Wax Express Shine
- Mothers Gold Wax :: says skip (http://com-pacowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=53.msg1366#msg1366)
Non-slip:
- Just scrub
- Aurora Marine Sure Step - gets less slippery when wet
Mildew:
- Clorox Cleaner with bleach
Skid marks:
- Dupont white polishing compound
- Simple Green
- Mr. Clean Magic Eraser :: says PHOENIXCP27 (http://com-pacowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=53.msg2444#msg2444)
Paint:
- Match Gelcoat (ie: engine cowling): Murrays spray paint Duplicolor, Wimbledon White
- Factory brown stripe: Murrays duplicolor Auto DSFM 153 Dark Brown M
- Rub rail: Murrays Black Bumper Paint
- Aquagaurd Bottom Paints :: says Gil Weiss (http://com-pacowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=53.msg692#msg692)
- Sherman Williams line of Marine Paints
Remove old vinyl tape and other decals:
- Goof Off (safe for fiberglass, but test in inconspicuous location first), rub it down with a rag, then use razor blade and more rubbing
- Razor blade that's been run across a windshield a few times first
Miscellaneous:
- A friend to help! :: says Don (http://com-pacowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=53.msg1039#msg1039)
Links to products on the web:
- Penetrol (http://www.thefloodstore.com/labels/Marine%20Penetrol.pdf) (caveat: PDF file)
- 3M Fiberglass Cleaner and Restorer (http://www3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/auto_marine_aero/marine/node_GSZYQSYNY9be/root_GST1T4S9TCgv/vroot_GS4JK4Y166ge/gvel_H8PTZGX97Rgl/theme_us_marine_3_0/command_AbcPageHandler/output_html)
- Vertglass (http://www.marinestore.com/vertglas-images.html?cart=3233993104221001)
- PoliGlow (http://www.poliglowproducts.com/)
- Aurora Marine Sure Step (http://www.auroramarine.com/)
- Mr. Clean Magic Eraser (http://www.homemadesimple.com/sites/en_US/mrclean/index.shtml)
- Sherman Williams Marine Paints (http://www2.sherwin.com/im/marine/default.asp) (see the featured products link, port-side menu)
Quote from: mgoller on April 03, 2006, 11:29:50 AMI found something called VertGlass gel coat restorer. I followed the directions and what a miracle. Its super easy and when you're done you can see your reflection like in a mirror.
I just bought a VertGlass gel coat restorer kit (because nothing else seems to work). Did you use it on the beige, non-skid surfaces?
Geospencer,
Non-skid is intended to be flat, not shiny. Shiny also means potentially slick, which is the opposite of what you want in non-skid. So, I'd not recommend a shining product on the non-skid. However, if your non-skid need a thorough cleaning, there are some options: stiff brush and elbow grease, bronze wool, there may be others. Hope this helps.
$0.02
FYI, Woody Wax sells a non-skid deck wax. I've tried it and it's "OK" but a little pricey.
http://www.woody-wax.com/woody_wax.php
Quote from: kchunk on October 08, 2008, 02:02:47 AM
FYI, Woody Wax sells a non-skid deck wax. I've tried it and it's "OK" but a little pricey.
http://www.woody-wax.com/woody_wax.php
I've used Woody Wax and you are right, it's pretty good stuff. It did make the non-skid deck look better. It didn't do enough for the rest of the gel-coat so I'm going to try the VertGlass for the shiny stuff.
Make sure you read up on that Vertglass (I mean real user opinions and not the company sales rhetoric). I've never tried it but I don't think this stuff is something that you "try". You have to commit to it. It's a clear coating that gets applied over your gelcoat, and I think it's for topsides only (the upper part of a ship's side, above the waterlin)...I don't think you want to use it on the decks, even the white shiny parts, barring the non-skid.
Do a google search for vertglass, poliglow and mop 'n glo. They're essentially the same polymer coating, some with more UV protection than others. However, the application instructions must be followed explicitly and they are all subject to build-up, peeling, and yellowing over time.
Strictly my humble opinion, these coatings are a near last resort option (with the last resort being painting or re-gelcoating). Now, I have no vested interest in elbow grease, but being a '94, I don't think your boat should need one of these coatings yet. I'd try compounding or even wet-sanding first. Once you apply one of these coating, it's even more difficult to remove if you don't like it.
Keep us posted on what you decide and how it turns out. My 23 is a '91 and has certainly seen better days. I've researched these options in the past and would love to know how yours turn out.
--Greg
Just found this thread when the site came back up.
The previous owner of my boat used one of these products. It began peeling, first a little, then in big swaths. It was very ugly. I removed all of it with a fine wet sand then buffed and waxed the hull. Now she looks like a well used and well cared for 20 year old boat. Not going to win any beauty pageants, but her skin ain't peeling anymore.
I got a 1989 Compac 23 last summer that had been horribly neglected and sat untouched on it's trailer for probably 4-5 years. Anyway, the gelcoat was a chalky mess with all kinds of mold and stuff caked on there. After lots of cleaning and scrubbing and researching, I ended up going the wet sand/compound/polish/wax route. I ordered this kit from Jamestown Distributors:
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=4138&familyName=Boat+Polishing+Kit
The kit has everything you need to do the topsides on a CP 23 or smaller, but I'd add a white wool 3m compound wheel on it. Anyways, I followed the instructions on all the products and the results are incredible...the topsides look almost as good as a new boat (except for some chips and scratches from 20 years of use). Once you have the topsides nice and clean, you can do all the steps over a weekend. About 3 hours for a wetsand at 600 grit, then about 10 hours for compounding and polishing, then a couple coats of wax.
As far as the brown stripe...it would of buffed out to a nice gloss, but I didn't like the color so I ended up painting it dark blue with the Interlux Brightsides system. For the deck, you can use the wetsand/compound/polish/wax on all the non non-skid areas and they look great. For the non-skid, really the only options are to just deal with it as-is or to paint. I've found that you can't really compound and polish the non-skid because of molded ridges.
FYI, before I went the compound route I tried using Poliglow on the transom. I didn't really like the way it looked and the compound route gave a much better and real finish. If anyone has any questions about specifics of compounding/polishing, send me a message. Also, don't be scared to do this if you have no experience...I had never touched a buffer before I started on my topsides, but in a few hours I felt comfortable and had a decent technique and rhythm going. It is not as much work as you think.
Shiny Gel Coat again.
Maguire's #49 cleaner and lots of hand rubbing.
Then wax with Mother's Gold or Maguires wax.
I don't use a buffer as I get no deep cleaning.
Oxidized Stuff is still on the surface and I end up
doing a manual wipe one square inch at a time.
I see a speck and I work on it till it's gone.
It's all in the details. Takes a couple of days on a 19. skip.
I'm kinda confused. How often do you have to rewax a old boat that you have compound polished and then waxed? And how many times have those that have used Polyglow had to tear it down and start over? The polyglow I have on my boat is from last year- still looks the same. When can I expect it to peal off? I used it because Practical Sailor gave it such a good review, but now I not so sure I went down the right track. Still looks good, however.
HI Newt. At the beginning of ever season when C&J comes out of storage she gets a good hand wash. and good hand buffing, with Meguires #49 and then three hand wax jobs on the hull and three hand wax jobs below the waterline, only the wax down under stays on. skip. Good thing I'm not confused. With any luck water will never touch my hull but wax instead.
""[Skip you're finish must be in good shape if you don't need compound. Then again the way you care for the boat it doesn't surprise me.]"" Wait a minute. M-49 IS a compound. Very gritty.
NEVER USE POLY-GLOW!! Unless the hull is perfectly clean to start with. What you see is what you cover up. 'Poly', a petro chemical is plastic. And if you don't get the dirt off all your doing is sealing in the dirt with some plastic crap that covers up the dirt and makes it look shiny. It was never clean. It's like pouring urethane over all the beer glass rings, and fingerprints, and food stains on a bar to seal in all the unsightly stuff. You don't want that. Surface preparation is everything.
Nick, I agree with your method and I bet it looks great. Almost all of our boats could use a real machine and sequenced compounding and polishing. Then and only then wax. Sand if chaulky.
Skip you're finish must be in good shape if you don't need compound. Then again the way you care for the boat it doesn't surprise me.
My 1982 16 was dull, but not chalky. So I fire up the Porter cable random orbital polisher that I use on the autos, started with 3 passes of 3M Rubbing Compound with decreasing hardness pads, 1 pass of 3M Finesse Glaze with polisher, hand rubbed GelGloss (looks and smells like Finesse), then 3M Marine Wax by hand.
Admittedly I've only done the outer hull and minor topside so far and the results show the noticeable difference between bright bottom and dull topsides. The forward areas of the hull look spectacular for a 27 year old boat, the aft hull not so much, looks like more wear here and probably need to sand and start over again there. Next season!
Speaking of spit and polish, Does anyone use Plexus on their boats to routinely clean/polish the dirty cockpit at the slip? Great stuff,very happy with it on motorcycle windshields. On the label says to use on fiberglass. West Marine sells it as well.
The machine takes a huge amount of work out of the equation and does a much better job for professional results for the outer hull and smooth cockpit areas.