Hello, I have a 1976 compac 16. I've been sailing it a dozen or so times and am beginning to get comfortable with it. Only problem is that the first time I tried to get it back on the trailer I bashed into multiple rocks and ended up disfiguring my keel and some hull. Can anyone give a bit of super specific advice on an easy fix, I've never done any boat work before.
Thnx.
http://m1330.photobucket.com/albumview/albums/ddickinson81/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_4815_zps06034315.jpg.html?o=0&newest=1
http://m1330.photobucket.com/albumview/albums/ddickinson81/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_6840_zpsf26559df.jpg.html?o=1&newest=1
Well she has been beat up and repaired before. One more time no big deal. The gash in the pictures looks to be too large for a couple bottles of Marine-Tex, my favorite, so ...
Start with a good clean-up
We are not going to bother with trying to build up the concrete with cement.
Sand away all the chunky loose stuff.
What doesn't want to come off, can stay.
Make sure the area is dry and vacuum away the dust.
Buy some fiberglass resign with a hardener.
Buy enough fiberglass woven cloth, enough for the effected area.
Cut the dry cloth with scissors to approximant fit.
On a piece of corrugated card board lay out the cloth.
Mix up [really well] the resign and hardener. Mind the working time. Might want to add a resign thickener.
Brush on the resign to BOTH SIDES of the cloth.
Brush on resign over the damaged keel area that the cloth is going to cover. Don't have to be neat about it.
Put it all together, slap the saturated cloth right on top of the resign covering the damaged area on the keel.
Carefully squeeze the resign smooth as it drips and runs. Stay with it for a while till it sets-up.
The smoother you can make it now, the easier it will be to sand smooth later after it cures.
Come back 24 hours later. Sand when hard.
Any divots or low spots, slather on some more resign, cure and sand a fair line, and paint.
It's simpler to just do it then to worry yourself sick about doing it.
Any mistakes can be sanded away and done again.
When your done chuck everything into a big plastic bag and into the garbage.
Your going to be all messy but the resign will come off your hands in a couple of days.
I can't where rubber gloves, and I end up tearing them anyway. So why bother?
skip. I would say mixing the two parts of resign together properly is the most stressful.
if the repair area is deep, don't try to fill it all with one mix. epoxy shrinks as it cures, so if it is too thick it will crack.
carl
Doesn't look too bad in the pictures, really. Might be a good candidate for the Marine-Tex Epoxy Putty, covers 17 square inches at 1/8" thick. http://www.marinetex.com/marinetexepoxyputty.html (http://www.marinetex.com/marinetexepoxyputty.html)
-Justin
Is marinetex compatible with the npg gelcote on compac 16 ,1978..
I've never had a problem with Marine-Tex covering anything ... BUT what ever Marine-Tex goes over or fills up to become a level surface Must be wax free, dirt free, soap free, paint free, dust free, and dry.
The only thing I don't think Marine-tex won't stick to are any propeller divots in my IdaSalor rudder. That rudder material appears to be pretty slippery and oily.
The only thing negative I can say about Marine-Tex is that it becomes very hard. Almost brittle. However having said that it has held my 6 mm aluminum KEEL BOOT to the flat bottom of the keel on a CP-19 for many years. Definitely water proof.
No problems should be encountered.
skip.
(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh299/1930fordroadster/ComPac%2019/DSC00406.jpg) (http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh299/1930fordroadster/ComPac%2019/DSC00404.jpg) (//)
Glued on KEEL BOOT.
" I'm supposed to get the white, right? " Any color will do. With the grey, you'll have to push it in to the divots harder.
Mix 100% of Marine-Tex all at once. The white can be rolled on with a 3 inch roller and the plastic container the 3 incher came in. Keep rolling till it starts to harden up.
The hull has never sat on all the trailer rollers at once. No big deal.
I think I'm going to try to use the marine tex epoxy putty to do the repair. I'm supposed to get the white, right?
Yes, the white version is correct. Verified from FAQ: http://www.marinetex.com/Marine-Texfaqs.html#Anchor-Marine-44867 (http://www.marinetex.com/Marine-Texfaqs.html#Anchor-Marine-44867)
Which color of the Marine-Tex is better to use for machinery bonds?
Gray. The Gray Marine-Tex is stiffer in contrast to the White Marine-Tex which is better for fiberglass repairs.
-Justin
Ok, so after looking at everyone's pics of compac 16's on the trailer while searching for ways to repair my keel damage I noticed that my the weight of my entire boat is on just one of the 2 keel roller (which is damaged). Yikes!!! I've searched this forum and found a thread containing a brief discussion about replacing rollers with a single board. Does anyone think this is feasible for this trailer?
The front forward roller is the one in contact with keel. The aft is about a foot behind keel while on trailer, but I think it helps it go on and off while launching and loading.
http://m1330.photobucket.com/albums/ddickinson81/?o=0
thanks justin,
Just ordered it. I'll post pics of repair, just in case there is anyone who is curious. this site is great. thanks everyone for your response.
-daniel
Quote from: ddickinson on September 01, 2013, 02:25:41 PM
Ok, so after looking at everyone's pics of compac 16's on the trailer while searching for ways to repair my keel damage I noticed that my the weight of my entire boat is on just one of the 2 keel roller (which is damaged). Yikes!!! I've searched this forum and found a thread containing a brief discussion about replacing rollers with a single board. Does anyone think this is feasible for this trailer?
The front forward roller is the one in contact with keel. The aft is about a foot behind keel while on trailer, but I think it helps it go on and off while launching and loading.
http://m1330.photobucket.com/albums/ddickinson81/?o=0
Do you have a picture of the entire boat sitting on the trailer ? Just from looking at your pics something does not look right. Your keel should be sitting on both rollers. I also noticed is that the rollers do not look wide enough. I am not sure how wide the keel is on a 16 but I just rebuilt my cp19 trailer and used 12 inch rollers all the way around. It looks like you would need a deep boat ramp to float the boat on and off with the keel sitting below the rear roller.
I recently replaced the keel rollers with a single bunk under the keel on an 85 Hutch trailer. I did not like the boat sitting only on two rollers either. The middle frame and roller appeared to have been hit or bent slightly(backing down a hill???). I jacked up the boat with a bottle jack working my way around the bunk posts (held the boat up fine), unbolted the roller brackets and replaced with 2x12 treated lumber. I went 5 feet to clear the keel 6 inches on each end. Used a 4 inch cut from the 2x12 for the support on the front and rear frame (just like the roller bracket) and simply bolted into place. Dropped the boat down. Boat comes off and on no problem. I think the trailer is stiffer too. Truck tires are in the water at retrieval just under the rim on the blackwall on the army corp ramps here is IL. Cheap easy upgrade in my opinion.
Quote from: Mattlikesbikes on September 01, 2013, 03:04:29 PM
Do you have a picture of the entire boat sitting on the trailer ? Just from looking at your pics something does not look right. Your keel should be sitting on both rollers. I also noticed is that the rollers do not look wide enough. I am not sure how wide the keel is on a 16 but I just rebuilt my cp19 trailer and used 12 inch rollers all the way around. It looks like you would need a deep boat ramp to float the boat on and off with the keel sitting below the rear roller.
http://m1330.photobucket.com/albumview/albums/ddickinson81/photo_zpsd0cede20.jpg.html?o=0
It looks like the boat is sitting too for forward on the trailer. I think the bunks should be more centered with the keel. Keep in mind I am coming from a 19 and I am pretty new at it also so I would wait until some others with more knowledge on the subject chime in before you do any thing.
I also Imbedded your pics for easier viewing
(http://i1330.photobucket.com/albums/w573/ddickinson81/photo_zpsd0cede20.jpg)
(http://i1330.photobucket.com/albums/w573/ddickinson81/image_zps4e870747.jpg)
(http://i1330.photobucket.com/albums/w573/ddickinson81/image_zpsbcf0d177.jpg)
(http://i1330.photobucket.com/albums/w573/ddickinson81/image_zps40da64ea.jpg)
(http://i1330.photobucket.com/albums/w573/ddickinson81/image_zps304d559c.jpg)
(http://i1330.photobucket.com/albums/w573/ddickinson81/image_zps767cd449.jpg)
The back of the keel should be sitting on the rear roller, looks like damage to trailer on rear strut, have local welding shop fix ,either roller needs to be placed on the back side of cross member.............nies
Daniel, the spacing of our rollers is likely too much for the boat. Whether the boat is too far forward is a matter of tongue weight, if you tried to shift the boat back it would end up tippy. It looks about the same comparing where the wheel is in relation to the boat as on my trailer. The biggest difference I have is a third cross-bar with roller about where the axle on the trailer is, therefore three rollers instead of just the two on yours. The spacing is such that at some point along the trailer the keel is on all three rollers, but most of the time only two are in contact. I'm thinking that's not the trailer that came with the ComPac, or it was a poorly modified one to fit since the rollers are too narrow.
So, in your case, probably a great candidate for a keel board instead of the rollers.
-Justin
The center cross brace is missing, you can try the keel board if where you lauch it is deep enough as you will lose the ease of loading with rollers, I agree that is not the trailer that came with the boat..................good luck.................nies
Another idea ,I went with Tie Down Roller Bunks from Overtons (item 2509)..............two 5 footers, used the rollers from one make a double roller keel bunk attached with U clamps to frame.....................works great for $130 and well worth it when loading.........nies
Oops item ,25019.............nies
Dan, found a picture from when I was trying to fix up the trailer, shows three cross members and wider rollers for my 16. Sorta matches your fifth picture in angle.
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/com-pac%2016%20pics/BaBaLeLe/IMG_0024.jpg) (http://s1125.photobucket.com/user/CPYOA/media/com-pac%2016%20pics/BaBaLeLe/IMG_0024.jpg.html)
-Justin
My plan is to take out at least the front roller and replace with a 2x6 or 8 or 10 or something. Can I just slap it down the center and bolt it on. I only have 2 crossbars? Not like Justin's 3. Do you think it would just Bend and not even be a good as existing set up ( all the weight on 1 broken roller)?
Run a piece of L steet iron down each side of a 2x8 and you will be fine or add center brace..................nies