Cheers everyone,
I was looking for some intriguing DIY projects and did find a company that make those 16 mini pilothouse. Its see a lot of windage for a small boat, but sure they look incredibly beautiful. Perhaps with some craziness.... ;D
Does anyone have more information on those beauties? Just checking.
All the best for fantastic summer. Guido
(http://www.ipass.net/sailboat/16pilot1.jpg)
What was the name of the company or web site?...................nies
I actually find a lot more information here. http://www.ipass.net/sailboat/cp16traw.html
Nice boats!
Sorry broken link. Here is the right one. http://www.ipass.net/sailboat/cp16traw.htm
Not a great web site; suggest you call Keith Scott there. He's the dean of North Carolina sailing and has been a Com- Pac dealer for 30 years. He's forgotten more about boats and sailing than I will ever know, and the pilot house is his baby.
Favorite Keith story: I told him I'd bought a a 1988 CP27 sight unseen and would be picking her up soon. He responded that the boat would have 350 hours on the diesel, about 20 blisters the size of a quarter, and I should replace the small raw water pump with the larger version.
Exactly right on all counts. The guy is a walking encyclopedia.
Wes
Keith will be adding a pilot house and through hull rudder to my CP19-2 this year. I'll post pictures along the way.
Guido, I too like the idea of converting the Compac 16 to a motorsailer or trawler with a pilothouse. On the mentioned website :
http://www.ipass.net/sailboat/
check the left side of the page for Kieth's " Trawler study guide ", a nice 6 part guide to build your own.
I think about adding a pilothouse to the Cp-16, and building in 1/4" marine ply, epoxy coated with fiberglass cloth on the exterior. Lexan windows. I wouldn't cut the cabin roof though , instead just bolt the house down over the companionway extending back to the cockpit some.
A steering wheel built into a box mounted on the companion way bulkhead would contain a pushpull cable to the tiller for steering. This way you have shelter , but the boat could still be converted back to original if needed.
Zmiller- it would be great to see pictures of your boat - of all the older Compac's 16,19,23- I think the 19 would be the "just right" size for a pilothouse.
Mike
1983 Cp-16.
Quote from: zmiller on March 28, 2015, 08:50:59 AM
Keith will be adding a pilot house and through hull rudder to my CP19-2 this year. I'll post pictures along the way.
I will watch for the pictures, and data on cost of installation, installer, other related mods to your 19
Greetings, we just purchased a 1983 CP16 from Keith. He reconditioned it and I'm doing the detailing left. I've put it on the market as we want to get another Montgomery 17 which we can now keep in a slip vice trailering, rigging, launching and retrieving...too much for us at our age. But we too looked at the pilot house conversion for a CP 23 Keith was building. Now having thought about converting the CP16, here's my idea.
If you're strictly looking for being able to increase the sleeping accommodations, enclosing the cockpit with a combination bimini top and dodger with side curtains, I think this would work fine. You would want to have this made to withstand operating the boat vice anchored and/or tied to a dock. I would keep the tiller steering and add about a 4 to 5hp motor which would be more than enough power, provides you with F-N-R gearing and alternator for charging your battery. Our CP16 happens to have the teak and stainless steel boom gallows which could be used for attaching the cockpit extension. You won't have standing headroom, but you would not be cutting up the boat either; it would be very easy to continue to sail and/or motor the boat with this configuration. The cost would be fairly expsensive, probably about $1000 for the bimini/cockpit enclosure. We may end up keeping our CP16 and making this upgrade. Hope this helps....John
Mayrel, I like your idea about the shelter on the Cp-16. I did mention above about a pilothouse mod , but the more I think about it-
maybe a " flexible" approach would be easier to make up. I already have 4 hp Yamaha with F/N/R, it is a great engine and works quite well motoring with using the rudder to steer. I already have a larger bimini for my Cp-16. I am now thinking of making up a vinyl windscreen with acrylic edges and cloth side curtains with vinyl side windows to attach to the bimini. I don't like how a traditional dodger looks with the curved front windows, so maybe something that looks more like a pilothouse, but in acrylic and vinyl. I am going to experiment more with this as I live near the Erie / Champlain canals in NYS and plan to use the Cp-16 on the rivers this summer. Also getting older here and think more and more about the "trawler mode".
Mike
I built a pilothouse for my Compac 16/1
It doesn't create too much windage and it doesn't put too much weight up high. The pilothouse has 1/4" thick plexiglass portholes and is constructed of 1/2" coosa board and 3mm Luan with fiberglass cloth. It weighs approximately 50lbs. The pilothouse bolts to deck and could be removed as needed. The addition of the pilothouse opens up the interior making it much more comfortable. I re-used the sliding hatch which is a nice addition and allows climbing into/out of the cabin.
It's not an easy or quick project but it can be done by the amateur DIY boatbuilder. I started the project in November- December. I would guess it cost me approximately $600-800 and 200-250 build hours.
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/4azvwthr5bmevj6/Photo%20Feb%2028%2C%202%2039%2033%20PM%20%281%29.jpg?raw=1)
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/2znmodfh29k40it/Photo%20Feb%2028%2C%204%2026%2033%20PM%20%282%29.jpg?raw=1)
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/viuzdq3nzo55ph8/Photo%20Feb%2028%2C%202%2040%2021%20PM%20%281%29.jpg?raw=1)
I'm finishing the pilothouse/deck joint with teak trim as well as the bulkhead edges. There will be a sunbrella door that snaps in place with clear vinyl Windows. The pilot house sits approximately 18-20" off original deck and extends approximately 10" past the bridge deck.
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/742txy2cwos3gzm/Photo%20Feb%2028%2C%202%2039%2012%20PM%20%281%29.jpg?raw=1)
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/8q9jjlymfutnix2/Photo%20Feb%2028%2C%204%2025%2053%20PM%20%281%29.jpg?raw=1)
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/5z9kokezsr0hkqk/Photo%20Feb%2028%2C%204%2025%2017%20PM%20%281%29.jpg?raw=1)
Very nice!!!
Looks great!
Sure opens things up
Wow that does look great. Gives me an idea for my 23! I may pick your brain after I get done with all the other things on the list.
Bob23
Bob, a guy named Bob Lamb raised the lid on his CP 23; he used to be on here, but I don't know if he is still active. He could tell you how he did it. He was a very clever guy.
Bruce
Thanks Bruce. I remember that. I might be able to find him on Sailfar. I like the 23 pilothouse but the visibility seems restricted. And like so many alterations, unless it's a first class job, it'll detract from an otherwise pretty boat.
Bob23
Defiant, that is a FANTASTIC build of a pilot house. Something I would like to do in the future. Some questions if you don't mind:
Where did you find the window gaskets.
Which parts are coosa and plywood.
How is it finished, paint type.
So would the boat now be used as a motor sailer or trawler, or is the house just for more comfort?
Thanks,
Mike
Yep, I'm still here! Thanks for the kind words Bruce. Ya'll can see some more pics on the photo link below
Very cool, Bob; I remember liking your mast raising scheme also.
I will try to answer some questions as best I can. The pilothouse was constructed as follows:
I created a frameless pattern mock-up using coroplast. I like coroplast over cardboard because its more rigid, quick and easy to trim and cut, and holds up during the pattern making process better than cardboard. It closely approximates what wood or composite panels might look and feel like during the mockup process. The pilothouse pattern consisted of two sides, a front, and a top. The two sides are basically mirror images of each other, although I noted some slight differences between one side of the boat and the other. Its not truly symmetrical. As a rule I started at 22" off the deck from the center height of the pilothouse. That was reduced to about 18" as things were trimed and I tried to get proper angles and curves. Where possible I tried to mimic the curve of the cabin roof and the form of the boat sides from the front deck moving aft. The key to the roof arch is the front windshield pattern. It took me more than one try at the patterns to get the right lines. I studied the photos on that website from NC. Although I asked, I was not able to get specific measurements from the company. I planned to save my patterns and offer them up for free or post them, but I cut up parts of the coroplast on other projects, so I may end up just posting rough measurements and a pattern diagram. The patterns were transferred as follows:
The sides and front were made of 1/2" blue water coosa board. It took a single sheet of 4'x8' coosa board. A sheet will cost you approximately $200-250.
The top was made out of 3mm luan door skin, which I then covered with two layers of 6oz fiberglass fabric on top, and one layer on the underside. I would have done the whole thing out of coosa board but there's not enough room on a single 4x8' sheet and I didn't want to spend another $200. The pilothouse is rigid and light, but you cant stand on it obviously. Only the top is covered in fiberglass cloth because its plywood. Its approximately 50-60 pounds when completed. If I had to do it again I might cover the interior of the sides of the pilothouse with fiberglass cloth, but It would need to be done on the boat to get the proper curves.
Coosa Board: If you have never worked with coosa board its a great product. I have used it on another large boat project and its amazing stuff. Its water proof, rot proof, and bug proof. Its basically the same structural properties as plywood, but it weighs 30-40% less. Its not foam. It can be bent similar to plywood, and you can thermo mold it with a heat gun in some situations. Its like a composite board material. From a distance it looks like cement board, but its light like foam, rigid like plywood. It absorbs less than 1% moisture, so it needs no treatment, no need to seal edges. Its not UV resistant bare. Its can be glued structurally with 3m5200. It has a slightly porous looking surface, but when coated with a think coat of resin it can be sanded quite smooth and takes paint perfectly. It can be painted on its own if you don't mind the imperfect surface and it doesn't seem to absorb that much paint. It can be sculpted with a angle grinder and palm sander which is how I got a tight fit and nice rounded corners on the pilothouse. Its downside is its relatively expensive, nasty to work with, and does dull your blades. It literally vaporizes when you cut it or grind it so you have to have a respirator and safety clothes.
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/kzhjqjiog2q8tyk/Photo%20Nov%2023%2C%206%2007%2059%20PM.jpg?raw=1)
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/arc5mjlwso6lx8j/Photo%20Jan%2003%2C%204%2054%2030%20PM.jpg?raw=1)
The sides, front, and top were assembled in one session, on the boat, using the "screw and glue method." I screwed "cheater blocks" to the top cabin deck and the sides and front were bent around the blocks and screwed in place while the joints set. I glued the pieces together with fast cure 3m5200. Then I use dry wall screws to tighten up the joints until the 3m5200 set. I removed the screws and laid in fiberglass fillets at the joint with thickened epoxy. I tabbed in the roof to the sides and the front panel with fiberglass cloth. Thicken epoxy filled all joint cracks and screw holes. The flange to bolt the pilothouse to the deck was created with coosa board strips, as was the hatch opening on the top. The trim edge around the underside of the top is actually 1/2" thick pvc square trim molding. I could have used 1/2" fiberglass bar from McMaster Carr but its more expensive. The pvc trim was trim nailed and expoxied in place.
I coated the bare coosa board with one coat epoxy resin, not to waterproof it (its already waterproof), but to create a smooth surface to accept paint. I also further used auto body glazing to fill other imperfections, especially at the exterior joints. I primed and painted the whole thing with Rustoleum Marine topside paint by roll and tip method, Oyster white. My boat was previously painted by the owner inside and out in Oyster white. The result is a seamless match that looks like it came from the factory. I would say my pilothouse finish is good to about the 1-2 foot rule. 1-2 feet away it looks perfect, which is perfect for a 30 year old boat.
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/2feahzbj5ljx0hz/Photo%20Feb%2006%2C%203%2049%2059%20PM.jpg?raw=1)
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/mah5nw8ruvlxh36/Photo%20Feb%2020%2C%201%2009%2041%20PM.jpg?raw=1)
The windows are made of 1/4" thick plexiglass. The black window trim is rubber D gasket material called CRL AS1707, $150 from Amazon. It accepts 1/2" thick wall on one side and 1/4" glass on the other. There is a locking strip that you apply which locks the glass in place. You need the special tools to install it. The hardest part of the project was installing the windows. Its a two person job and very frustrating.
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/li2ui4nicpepusq/Photo%20Jan%2003%2C%204%2054%2038%20PM.jpg?raw=1)
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/ay5vn74wg5xh6g1/Photo%20Feb%2027%2C%205%2046%2012%20PM.jpg?raw=1)
The primary reason I built the pilothouse for the my compact 16 was not to get out of the weather, or create a covered helm position. I built the pilothouse to improve the accessibility of the cabin and make it more useful. I love the compact 16 and have sailed them for many years, but as an older large adult I simply could not get in and out of the cabin easily. It was uncomfortable to move around and very claustrophobic. The pilothouse took a tiny space and opened it up. Suggestions to put the pilothouse on the deck and not cut the deck open defeats this purpose, which is why I caution against it. Here's a photo of what the pilothouse looks like on the deck with the original companionway. Too much wasted space and it defeats the purpose of the pilothouse in my opinion. Once the deck is cut away, the cabin takes on a whole new usefulness.
I plan to use the my compact 16 pilothouse as a motorsailer, but I was immediately struck how the boat went from being just a sailboat to being a motorsailer and/or trawler/motor launch. Its now dual purpose. I currently have both a Honda 2hp and a Tohatsu 6hp sailpro. I will use the Honda for motorsailing, but I can see using the Tohatsu with no mast and just putter around. If I was Hutchins Co I would rethink the idea of the Compac 16 pilothouse hardtop as an after market item. Turn your one boat into two.
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/pxdgcfdkwp11hjz/Photo%20Feb%2028%2C%202%2039%2043%20PM.jpg?raw=1)
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/ovr9t3wnb2qpjdg/Photo%20Feb%2028%2C%202%2039%2050%20PM.jpg?raw=1)
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/hh9t386r46fjgl3/Photo%20Feb%2028%2C%203%2005%2003%20PM.jpg?raw=1)
Thanks for the excellent detailed write up.
Mike
I just came in from sitting in the companion way of my 16 imagining doing something similar but shorter in height. I also would like to have a livable cabin on my boat that is friendly to an old man. However, in my case I would only like sitting headroom. Opening up the cabin to include the bridge deck clearly looks like the way to go also. Because it gets so darn cold on the water up here, I would also enclose the back of the enlarged cabin with the original sliding hatch and drop boards. It looks like there might be enough open space to install a vee berth in the bow, leaving the aft area for living space.
Nice work,
Al
Pilothouse is now finally mounted. My pilothouse was designed to be bolted to the boat cabin top by way of a 1" wide flange. The flange was created by placing the pilothouse on the cabin top and then cutting small 1" wide strips of 1/2" coosa board which were epoxied to the bottom of the pilothouse. By cutting the pieces small enough, the flange follows camber of the deck.
The pilothouse is bolted to the deck, via the flange, using some twenty-six 1/4" bolts and 3m4200 sealant laid into the deck-pilothouse joint. I chose 3m4200 because I wanted the pilothouse to be removable.
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/x8oyg7tzzpbtsp5/Photo%20Apr%2023%2C%201%2001%2044%20PM.jpg?raw=1)
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/yk2xs30a8p7vtjz/Photo%20Apr%2030%2C%201%2021%2031%20PM%20%281%29.jpg?raw=1)
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/uo3onwaupu2b9as/Photo%20Apr%2030%2C%202%2015%2059%20PM%20%281%29.jpg?raw=1)
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/69726oqzm6t9ajv/Photo%20Apr%2030%2C%202%2016%2015%20PM%20%281%29.jpg?raw=1)
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/j4lt822nni0hfu5/Photo%20Apr%2030%2C%202%2021%2052%20PM%20%281%29.jpg?raw=1)
The interior edge and flange if the deck-pilothouse joint was finished with teak trim. The interior of the boat was simply finished with smooth painted surfaces, a reworked electrical system, and the addition of a forward anchor locker shelf. The electrical system makes use of red/white LED lights, one in the forward cabin and one in the pilothouse, retrofitted LED navigation lights, a simple GPS/sonar, Heli-fan, and simple battery monitor. The house electrical bank is a single 12v 55ah AGM battery which can be expanded at a later date to a two battery system.
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/ophbg06p6tn740z/Photo%20Apr%2030%2C%202%2025%2055%20PM%20%281%29.jpg?raw=1)
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/ogbvyte6wxgifju/Photo%20Apr%2030%2C%202%2014%2058%20PM%20%281%29.jpg?raw=1)
The lifelines are a DIY special. The terminals are stainless steel fittings purchased at Harbor Freight for $5-7 each. The wire came from Defender purchased at $1.00+ a foot. The snap shackles acting as pelican hooks were also on sale at $10/each. It's a cheap clean solution.
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/wxs4cn4d8pt111l/Photo%20Apr%2030%2C%202%2016%2005%20PM%20%281%29.jpg?raw=1)
This might be a silly question, but how do you "close up" the pilot house to keep rain out? Is there like a large door on the back side between there and the cockpit?
Looks really nice, great work.
There is an Alaskan bulkhead that rolls down which serves as a door. An Akaskan bulkhead is a fabric bulkhead that can either be rolled up or down and is split down the center. In this case it's made of tinted clear vinyl and mounted with swivel studs. It can be rolled up or down under way.
I think a set of cabin doors could easily be added. You would need two doors approximately 25-35" wide. And two side narrow bulkheads on either side to hinge the doors. It's something I'm considering for the future.
Since I purchased my 23 pilot house, I have found that I steer the boat from the inside station almost exclusively. I will sit in the cockpit when the auto pilot is steering. I install the tiller and steer from the cockpit when backing into a tight spot as the rear visibility is hampered from the inside steering station. I am here in Florida and have really come to appreciate the benefits of a pilot house shelter - who would have thought! It is well shaded and ventilated, and the visibility is great from that far forward. Lots of room to stand up and move around and you can fetch a cold beverage with ease. Passengers can lounge in the cockpit without being in the way. None of your electronics need to be exposed to the weather, and you don't have to put on rain gear when it rains. A pilot house adds a huge amount of luxury to sailing. How come we're still sailing without them on every boat?
Wow!! Great work you've done on Defiant! What did you use to attach the gear hammocks to the hull?
Gear Hamocks: this is a mod I've done on several boats, especially ones with a single skin or sold fiberglass hull which has a relatively smooth interior. First sand and paint the interior. Colors such as red can be quite stunning in certain interior boat applications.
Next cut blocks of wood about 1x2". You will glue these blocks to the interior hull using 3m5200 for the purpose of eventually screwing the Hamock mount hooks into. Over time I've come to use material other than wood for my blocks. Coosa board is great, but you need to be sure not to overtighten screws. I've used PVC lumber and my best choice is 1/2" thick Sintra or Celtec which is a PVC rigid foam material. It looks like wood. Hard like wood. But it's lighter than wood. It's cleaner than coosa and easy to use perfect for these mount blocks.
You glue the blocks where you will anchor the hammocks. You hold them in place to dry with gorilla tape overnight. By next day your blocks are set you can touch up with paint then mount the hammock hooks.
The netting is marine cargo storage netting available on Amazon. Comes in various premade sizes, elasticized and the mount hardware comes with it. Cheap
Thanks! Good ol'/5200!
Photos of Alaskan bulkhead and new cushions.
New Sails on their way
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/j651in9pthuwwxa/Photo%20Jun%2004%2C%201%2007%2055%20PM.jpg?raw=1)
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/dz8lli8fd3tvq1y/Photo%20Jun%2004%2C%201%2007%2048%20PM.jpg?raw=1)
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/f2dkflzrt0onarv/Photo%20Jun%2004%2C%201%2020%2049%20PM.jpg?raw=1)
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/x258u4tcwrdsby9/Photo%20Jun%2004%2C%201%2042%2054%20PM.jpg?raw=1)
New black sails and roller furler arrived from National Sails. I shopped around and their prices were clearly the best, best options, best customer service.
My sails buying experience was very interesting. Everyone responds with plug and play emails. Especially in their quotes. It's hard to take quotes seriously when I'm being told how personalized and customized my customer experience is when the emails are really form emails. BTW all the emails say basically the same thing.
In addition some quotes are super detailed. Some not so much. Most are pdf files. One was a link not accessible to apple product users. They say that in the email. Lol. One quote was 12 pages--but it doesn't really say anything, just cool sail skematics and blank space and a cool personalized cover sheet. But they spelled my name wrong. Lol. I did spell my name right in my original email didn't I?
The more expensive quotes list every option and the extra cost and nickle and dime you to death. Interestingly some companies quote me white sail material when I clearly asked for tan bark or black. They correct it on redirect--but of course then left out the black. Two companies recommended furlers clearly not suitable or in line with what I asked for my boat. One company actually called me, but recommended the wrong furler for a Compac 16.
Two companies ran about $1500 in their quote. One is $1000. Interestingly the $1000 company did none of the silly things above but they didn't call me back.
The furler is the small CDI. It was easy to install, simple, complete. The jib is a 150% Genoa cut to normal size for a Compac 16. The mainsail cut one foot shorter to clear the pilothouse. Main halyard & topping lift run to the pilothouse roof.
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/48y4mahdov6ddud/Photo%20Jun%2012%2C%202%2034%2022%20PM.jpg?raw=1)
Splashed and ready to sail UP Michigan for 4th of July
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/rjweqcut26b7hdl/Photo%20Jul%2001%2C%2012%2028%2038%20PM.jpg?raw=1)
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/rhehh1tlb2s8btb/Photo%20Jul%2002%2C%202%2035%2017%20PM.jpg?raw=1)
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/83xkqcs44f0weej/Photo%20Jul%2002%2C%202%2035%2036%20PM.jpg?raw=1)
Well all I can say that it's one pretty boat! Question is that just clear marine vinyl used for the rear curtain?
Mike
I always wonder if I should try something like this on my CP 23. Never do, mainly because of inertia.
There was a guy on here who does this sort of thing with a dodger. I might be just as happy with that. Still learning the ins and outs of my new Bimini. It is very roomy, and can slide forward over the cabin top at least a bit.
However, it's open air, and you lose some functionality that way.
This is a great looking boat!
Quote from: mikew on July 03, 2016, 06:55:29 AM
Well all I can say that it's one pretty boat! Question is that just clear marine vinyl used for the rear curtain?
The Alaskan bulkhead is made of tinted clear vinyl. It's not as thick as normal enclosure plastic. I scored some scraps in a garage sale. The vinyl edges are trimmed in 1.5" black webbing.
Seems similar to clear dry bag vinyl.
Maiden voyage. 5 knots wind.
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/lgxscpeaq7pk4oq/Photo%20Jul%2003%2C%2012%2048%2038%20PM.jpg?raw=1)
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/o9mfcsd2owk0ew4/Photo%20Jul%2003%2C%2012%2042%2053%20PM.jpg?raw=1)
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/ewb85rj3ababjlf/Photo%20Jul%2003%2C%2012%2043%2059%20PM.jpg?raw=1)
Thanks for all the positive feedback. Really happy with how it turned out. Gathers spectators everywhere it goes. If I had a Compac no matter what the size I would do the pilothouse mod. You will not be disappointed.
First sail report:
1) pilothouse windage and weight un-noticeable. Visibility excellent. The addition of the original sliding hatch makes access to the mast a breeze. Lines led aft or to the pilothouse a must.
2) the Pilothouse is fantastic for shade and you can steer from the bridge deck. I actually find the original tiller a little long if sitting farthest aft. But the tiller length is perfect for steering from pilothouse.
3) the sails are fantastic. If I had to do it again I would consider a 155% genny or bigger. The CDI roller furler is wonderful. I've always been partial to hank on sails but it's nice to control everything from cockpit.
4) Honda 2hp four stroke works fine. It is noisy. But it's simple and pushes boat to 5.5 knots. Yesterday it was blowing a good snot when launched;the little motor did great when I brought the boat around to the slip.
5) this boat is a Compac 16/1 with the add on bowsprit and an aftermarket rudder. Fantastic additions. Sails quite well. But I'd really like to see how it goes in a blow.
This rig is a great solo adventure platform. For solo camping and ease of use, pilothouse can't be beat.
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/lcmczs15tu2mo6n/Photo%20Jul%2004%2C%206%2053%2008%20AM.jpg?raw=1)
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/8rfm8ebg9lgz9rb/Photo%20Jul%2004%2C%206%2053%2031%20AM.jpg?raw=1)
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/fmlf4fc7gce7rni/Photo%20Jul%2004%2C%206%2054%2006%20AM.jpg?raw=1)
Harbor Island National Wildlife Refuge. Lake Huron
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/x6hwipburc49rvc/Photo%20Jul%2004%2C%2011%2049%2013%20AM.jpg?raw=1)
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/zxq7a5niuoqs38n/Photo%20Jul%2004%2C%2012%2048%2025%20PM.jpg?raw=1)
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/n3zp7baohfvksg1/Photo%20Jul%2004%2C%2012%2047%2022%20PM.jpg?raw=1)
Man, oh, man. What a head-turner! I'll bet you're gonna have a ton of fun out there.