Can anyone please direct me to a source for stainless steel pipe straps. I wish to add 2" wide teak treads to my CP19 transom ladder. The ladder diameter is 1" and standing on these is quite uncomfortable. Thank you. Steve
While were at it, I've had a couple of people come aboard with bloody knees from scraping the end of the bolt that allows the ladder to fold up. Does anyone have a good solution for covering this up? I'm thinking liquid vinyl, but it seems like that would come right off when the ladder was actuated a few times. Likewise electrical tape, or any other tape-ish product.
Pete
I'm not familiar with that ladder or that size cp. Would a castle nut be of any help? Might still hurt but wouldn't cut anyone. They are readily available in stainless.
Steve Paul
West Marine has Sole Mate Ladder Treads Model 490136
Johns #48-560 14.99 each. They are on page 759. They are not teak though.
Thanks Connie, I am considering those. I called C.S.Johnson to inquire about the hardware that goes with those steps as it is what I am looking for. They stock the hardware kit for each step separately ( two clamps and all the screws) for $6.25, part no. 48-560HP. They said I could order it through West Marine. Regards, Steve :)
Hi Steve. WM will match prices so if you get an internet print out of a less expensive item, they will match.. no questions asked. Maybe check with Defender too. They may not have it in the Cat. but if you call, they often have.
The attachment kits are probably U bolts....
Let me know how they work.
Glad I could help.
Hi
This might not be what you are looking for, but this is what I did with my CP16. It had a folding ladder - bare tubing that I just couldn't wrap the sole of my foot around.
I got some 1" X 3" red oak from home depot. I ripped some slots about an 1/8" deep every 1/2" to make anti slip treads. Then I drilled 1 1/4" holes where the ladder rails measured. Then I cut half way through the diameter of those holes with a chop saw.
Now the oak will slip onto the top of each rung and not spin because the half circle holds the rail.
I used 3/4" copper tubing straps with stainless screws into the bottom. Never had a problem.
You can soften the edges of the oak with a file and sandpaper to be nice to your feet.
I stained and varnished the wood to match the teak.
Cost was about $15.
I don't remember any screws or bolts protruding anywhere. I think my ladder uses aluminum or stainless smooth rivets at the pivots.
I'd get rid of anything that could hurt someone on a boat.
I had a compass that cut a 2' gash down my leg. It got punished severely.
Actually it got moved to the top of the sliding hatch.
Bye
Hutchins has treads for the ladders. Give Jane a call. I do not know how much a set is now, but it is worth a shot.
My ACE Hardware has some slide
on caps that cover the threads of bolts as a way
to not slice yourself up.
But I think I'd spend an hour and just look at all
the fasteners they sell and put something together
that is nice to look at, safe, non-protruding and rust-less.
May be a plastic or nylon something.
You know it when you see it.
I like the idea of copper tube flatened into strap.
skip.