Hi,
I'm planning to adjust the route of my furling line from the furler back to the cockpit and need to order furling leads to go on my stanchions. I seem to remember that the stanchion tube diameter is 7/8" but I'm not certain. Can anyone confirm the stock size?
Thanks.
Marc
I think your right, smaller then an inch because the stanchion mounted Harken blocks I bought for the furler line return are too large for the stanchions on my CP-19.
So I'm going with 7/8 inch. But not 3/4 inch.
Best guess. skip.
"...Were you able to return them?..."
No. Don't think they come any smaller. The blocks have been on for five years and still work great. They just park themselves around the base of the pole and work great. They don't creep up, and they organize the line just fine.
Stanchion blocks:
Were you able to return them? I might be looking for stanchion blocks for 1" diameter stanchions to run my boom brake control lines back to the cockpit.(CP27).
Bruce
S/V Allure
I just measured mine yesterday and they are 7/8 inch.
Mac
Thanks guys.
I've been looking on-line and there are not many choices for bullseyes or blocks on 7/8" tubing. What do you think if I just go with bullseyes? Here is what I've been looking at. At the bow, the 1st bullseye from the drum would be this Johnson.
I like that I can adjust the angle of the fairlead so it can squarely face the drum. Downside is that the clamp isn't very pretty.
(http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t486/sail19/39895160-8e58-4c2a-89e3-95669105658a_zps16cd31d9.jpg)
Johnson's description: Rail Mount Roller Furling Fairlead with a Twist $38.75
We have added a 360 degree swivel feature to our popular furling fairlead in s/s bushed version. This fitting can be used in areas where articulation is required, reducing friction in the system.
Here's a seadog that I would use on 2 other stancheons:
(http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t486/sail19/Seadogfairlead_zps6469cf1f.jpg)
Link to Seadog's description is here.
http://www.sea-dog.com/groups/1749-rail-mount-fairlead-with-stainless-insert
I've seen it for as little as $11.99. Again, not the prettiest thing out there.
Has anyone come across any more elegant, affordable bullseye or block that would work for our furlers?
Marc
Marc, what I have used for my downhaul is small harken blocks attached to the bases of the stancions,
The issue I have is when it gets to the combing, so I am going to use one of those bullseyes there, then cleat it off on the combing cleat.....
wish I had pictures for you but I set it all up close to the end of the sailing season,
Mac
I like these SHAEFER blocks
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product2_11151_10001_92457_-1____ProductDisplayErrorView#.UTlHw6KG3zU
Harrier,
That is what I wanted to do, I REALLY like those a lot!
only problem..... 1 inch stanchions.... :(
I almost cried when I saw that last year when I wanted to buy them........
Mac
Odd, our CP19 stanchions are 1". Wonder why they are different (first owner request, probably?). The rails are 7/8" though. We use those Schaefer stanchion blocks for the furler, and like them as well. Clean.
You can barely see it in this pic:
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z290/yamaholic_mcarp/Island%20Time/100_0189.jpg)
Yup. Those schaefers are my 1st pick too. Not long before I pull my cover off. Think I'll wait and make absolutely sure that my tube diameter is 7/8" before I settle for something less.
Marc
Salty - just noticed that your stern rail has a gap in the center with a mini-lifeline. Maybe that's a difference between an XL and a 19/3 - mine has a continuous rail above the transom. An interesting detail. With your setup, no need to clamber over the rail after swimming. Also, I notice your stern nav light is mounted very low - mine is high, near the top of the rail.
Wes
I think what actually happened to Saltys boat is the guys at hutchins had a bit much to drink. :o
Then they came in all crazy like "lets try this color, hahhahahahahah" :P
And "lets add these cool rails and 1 inch stanchions, and blah blah blah" :P
Then after his boat was done that day they all went home and slept it off......then the next day Gerry was like " OMG :o BRO! What the hell have we done here?!?!? This is a mistake........ go back to the tried and true methods we have employed for years and never speak of this again........."
In my defense of that story......they did tell him it was a mistake....... ;D
LOL
Mac
LOL..only the hull color was a mistake. The rest of the customizations were a product of a zealous buyer that just had to have the other options before the deck was built.
The stern rail seats were installed on, what Gerry believes to be true, 3 CP19's. I haven't seen pics of the others, but they are out there somewhere.
The aft mini-lifeline is a big plus, a lot easier to board from the ladder. The lifeline was not present when I acquired it; I had Hutchins make it up for me to match the others. I thought...why not have one there too.
Anyway, the 1" stanchion diameter is not unusual. I could swear the Greene's CP19II had the same stanchions. Maybe not, but I suspect if you guys actually take a vernier caliper and measure them rather than eyeballing or taking others word for it, I bet all the CP19II, III, and XL's will have 1" stanchions. So measure them yourself to be sure.
I think I have an extra schaefer stanchion block if someone wants it. I'll sell for half retail (never used) + shipping.
What I want to find is a adjustable lead for the bow pulpit. They all seem to angle the sheet horizontally, but the pulpit leans forward a bit, leaving the line at a less than idea angle to the forward lead. I tried to rail mount swivel block-it worked OK but not great sometimes..might try it again with a new angle.
boy thats a pretty 16 next to your 19. wonder where the guy got the idea for the gas tank location?
Mine are 7/8 on Caliper :(
I have learned in the marine industry to be sure to measure twice, because once you send off to have something built, it is too expensive to have redone. :)
I really wanted those shaeffers too for my downhaul...... :(
Mac
Salty, I've got a split rail too. Guess there's only 1 more boat to be accounted for. My boat didn't come with the aft lifeline either.
(http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t486/sail19/IMGP7228_zps61dd1c29.jpg)
As for the furling blocks, I've decided to go with Spinlock. The SpiWL/2 is the lead block and I believe there is adequate adjustment to get the angle right from the drum to the pulpit stanchion. I'll use the WL1 on the other stanchions. Here is what they look like:
http://www.mauriprosailing.com/us/category/1-Spinlock-Furling-Line-Leads.html
A good picture showing the adjustment of the Spinlock WL2 is here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Spinlock-WL-2-Stanchion-Lead-/160734392655
The only problem is that they are made only for 1" diameter tubes. I'm planning to put a wrap of rigging tape over the tube before I mount the spinlocks on my pulpit to take up the extra space.
Marc
Marc, Yes those look identical to ours. Nice, aren't they! What hull # is your 19?
And what is up with that mast crutch! ;D ;D
Salty, Hull number is 610. Just got the boat last fall so I've only sat on it in my driveway. The mast crutch came from the last owner. It works for transport and winter storage but now you got me thinking about what I'll be doing on the water if I want to lower the mast - say to change a bulb or halyard. What works for you?
Marc
Cool...we are hull #603, so close cousins.
I don't drop the mast on the water. With a furler, too much to deal with. If I need to drop the mast, I would pull it out of the lake...so far haven't had to do this.
Quote from: kickingbug1 on March 14, 2013, 05:59:13 PM
boy thats a pretty 16 next to your 19. wonder where the guy got the idea for the gas tank location?
That is a pretty 16, Kicknbug. Too bad the Captain hangs out with all those crazy CLR Compac-anauts. ;
For all you guys that are wondering, yes, that's Kicknbug's 16 to the left in my pic. 8)
BTW, Marc..I was just messing with you ( I do that from time to time). Somehow, I knew you didn't design it.
We use a 2x6 sitting on the seats with a raised "field goal"to keep the mast steady. I notched out the wood on the aft side to fit into the inner vertical rails, installed wood-to-machine screws into the wood (machine screws sticking out on either side of the notch), then small plates of steel...old CP16 chainplates actually, which lay on the aft side of the rail secured to the machine screw/studs with wingnuts. Takes a minute or so to install and remove and it's easy to check tightness at road stops.
Also..really like the color of your boat, something about a dark blue hull! Your boat is somewhat rare--stern rail seats, XL, and dark blue hull.
Salty,
Good info on your mast crutch. That set up is much sturdier than what I currently have and I'll do something similar. The hull color looks good from 20 feet away. Unfortunately a previous owner was too aggressive with all forms of cleaning/upkeep. Lots of the gelcoat is gone from rubbing compound gone wild. The wood was attacked with a sander and that scratched the adjacent gelcoat. But from 20 feet away - not bad.