At work we are repainting the Core of Engineers boat (Topsides) using Perfection by Interlux.
I decided not to spray it as The tower on the boat and also the fact that I have a big waste oil furnace running and it is cold out so all of our equipment is inside as well.
I have had EXCELLENT results using a foam roller from the lumber yard. Sorry in advance for the analogy, but it is a High Density Foam Roller in the shape of a large Tampon............
That is exactly as my Interlux rep said it............... Yup.......
Anyhoooooo....... it worked awesome, and actually looks like I sprayed it. I am so happy with how it is turning out.
I will try to post pictures of this and some others I promised of that sinking boat in a few days. Been really busy lately getting the shop ready to put the 19 in it so I can FINALLY work on it!
Mac
Thanks for the information, I am getting ready to paint a dingy. Did you tip it after you rolled it?
Wiggs
Not at all with that roller! Really surprised us!
Up at the top where the hull rounds I used a brush, a really good Corona China Bristle brush and tipped it out with itself then roll up to it with the roller so it blends in nicely
Mac
Mac, could you tell me how much prep work and if or how many base coats before top coat or coats? Did you have to sand and how much and between coats? I know this is a lame series of questions, I guess what I am asking for is a complete description of the job you are doing.
Mike
Ribbed_Rotted_Rusting
I started with 120 grit to sand the gelcoat switching to new sandpaper relatively often.
Then applied Interlux 2000 to some spots that I had to repair.
Sanded again with 120.
I will stop here to add that If I could go back, I would have probably primed the whole boat with Epoxy Primecoat or that 2000. Then would have sanded with 220 or 320 as It would hide sand scratches better.
Since I am using a white, and planned to do a extra coat, I had good feeling that it would hide them. For the most part you dont see the sand scratches at 120 hardly at all, but to ensure a definite "No sand scratches here" look, go the 220 to 320 route.
Interlux rep said to prime as it helps ensure bond, and also longevity...... so my boat will probably get that treatment for a test difference.
Also, this C of E boat gets rammed against the dock often, so I had that in mind while working on it.
AFTER the 120 sanding I washed the boat down with a soapy water scrubbing and rinsed it. Allowed it to dry. Then did a wipe down after taping it all off for painting.
I started using a red Mohair roller, that was a big mistake. Had sags all over it. So the next day I let it sit, then sanded it with 120.
Started painting the next coats with brushing into the non roller areas first, then brushing them out and tipping constantly to avoid sags, and rolling the areas with that "Tampon" like roller. (It is a High density sponge like, and doesnt exactly soak up the paint)
On the final coat I have to say, plan to do the whole thing...... this will help you avoid lines, so cover EVERYTHING. Also preplan the movements. so lime start where you have a cut line, like a edge, etc. Dont start and stop in the middle of a big panel.....
This job was my firstof this kind, and I could have sprayed it, but with all the stuff noted in previous post, rolling was the better option.
I also have seen a few sags where I brushed that the other guy looking it over while I worked so I could keep moving didnt catch......
Oh well...... when they hit the dock, extra protection... LOL
But seriously, it is in areas that no one will see clearly, and arent really bad, but we all would love to have a perfect job.
Some tricks:
Tape with sticky side wrapped on to the skin of the finger is a good way to wipe runs out. Also a good way to fix sags.
Use good lighting. Even have a flashlight, or something to help you see what the paint is doing.......Our lighting sucks, so we really have to work at it on the lighter colors and whites to make sure we do a good job.
Use high quality brushes, they do a really nice job, and dont de bristle like junk ones, so you dont have to keep pulling hairs out of the paint as you go.
Keep extra sponge rollers on hand....... I did have one start to go bad from the plastic insert and the foam tip it started to come apart there..... but I caught it and swapped to a new one without issue.
Lastly take your time on the last coat, but be quick..... Time is of the essence as it starts to tack up and then you cant do anything with it.
On the last coat, you cannot do touch ups, they show up bad...... that last coat must be complete, then leave it alone, that is your finished product......
You also dont want to sand to buff it out to fix sags, etc..... those spots wont match (so I have been told) and also wont have the same UV protection that the rest of the job does. That is due to the nature of the paint itself.
Mac
jason,
i also used a foam roller from ace when i painted our previous boat. i used interlux brightsides.
(http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m533/aubelecarl/readytogo_zps6260fa1e.jpg)
Thanks Mac Mike
Wow Carl, that looks nice, came out well!
Your pic is better than mine, you cant really see good detail in mine...... which in a couple spots might have been a good thing.... LOL
And no problem Mike, anytime!
Here is the pics from the job I did.
(http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/JGDVS/2013-02-09_14-54-10_256_zps71725012.jpg)
(http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/JGDVS/2013-02-09_14-54-14_954_zps74b132a1.jpg)
(http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/JGDVS/2013-02-09_14-54-25_632_zpsae66c1a3.jpg)
(http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/JGDVS/2013-02-09_14-54-48_775_zps2c1a3304.jpg)
(http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/JGDVS/2013-02-09_14-55-13_979_zpsca09aab4.jpg)
Now I have the ambition to do mine...........
Mac