Com-Pac Yacht Owners Association

Hello fellow Compac owners.
I guess I'm the new guy in town, though I've been lurking for quite some time. I just  purchased a 1999 Compac 19.  Hull number 610.  The boat will be sailed in Buzzards Bay and Cape Cod Bay, Massachusetts. I plan to keep the boat on a mooring. I've got a number of questions I hope you can help me with.

My 1st question has to do with the location of bow chocks. My boat currently doesn't have any. I do have an anchor platform with an anchor roller.

Ideally I'd like to install chocks on the edge of the anchor platform - as far aft as possible where the platform tapers out & meets the hull. I posted a question to Keith at The Sailboat Company asking whether the platform can take the stress of the mooring lines yanking on platform mounted chocks as the boat constantly moves around. His response was he would trust platform mounted chocks for docking but probably not for mooring. I was confused by that since he suggested that I pull the mooring line up between the roller and bale of the anchor roller and then tie the lines off to the bow cleat. Seems to me this would generate at least as much stress (and probably more) on the anchor platform as having the mooring lines go through chocks on the edge of the platform. Also, I'd like to keep my anchor on the roller rather than having to store it elsewhere.

If I install chocks on the fiberglass adjacent to the platform, I will have a chafe problem along platform's edge.

So my question is, does anyone keep their boat on a mooring and how are you set up? Where are your chocks? Any photos?

Thanks for you help.
Marc
[/b][/b]

marc says, " I do have an anchor platform with an anchor roller. "

Does this mean you have a bow sprit and dolphin from the bow eye to the end of the bow sprit? With a hull # of 610 this had to be an adder.
Nothing wrong with that. I installed the kit on my buddies CP-19.

Cut up a pair of leather welding gloves for chaffing materials, and here is where my bow chocks are...

skip.

Welcome, Marc:
   While I don't have a 19, I do own a 23 and keep her moored in Southern NJ. She's been out in some high winds with no problems. She even endured a night of 60 mph gusts. Yup, 60! A very sleepless night indeed.
Here's a shot of my bow pulpit with chocks; I think it's a factory setup but not sure what the previous owner added.
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt260/Bob23_photo/2011bowsprit.jpg)
   I keep my anchor on the roller but when deployed, I'll usually run the line through the chock.  And I usually set 2 anchors, one line on each chock. Seems to greatly reduce the swing at anchor.
   Keep the questions coming...any photos of your boat?
bob23

Skip & Bob,
Your photos show exactly the setup of my bow except I don't have the bow chocks. I brought the boat by the marina where I intend to keep it moored next summer. I wanted to get the yard manager's opinion of where he'd place the chocks. I don't know whether he was influenced by my concern, but he suggested placing the chocks on the fiberglass & not the platform. Looking at how the platform is constructed with its stainless steel perimeter, 3 bolts on each side into the hull, dolphin and forestay, I tend to believe that the chock placement you use is more than adequate to handle a mooring line. But what do I know? I was very surprised when I encountered doubt about putting chocks on the platform's edge.

Placement of chocks there certainly would be easy to do. I like easy but I want it to be safe too.

Marc

Marc
Dont know if it helps any but I work at a marina (no pole mooring though) and there are several larger boats with chocks just like the 19 where they are on that board up front.
I have em on my 19 as well.
I personally see a benefit to being in the board myself instead of glass just because if they did tear out the wood is easily replaced compared to glass work.
I also use the chocks to winch strap the boat to the trailer during transport.

Mac

Guys:
   I don't believe there is much sideways pressure on the chocks...most of the force is pushing down on them. My chocks were put on either by the factory or a previous owner. Either way, I have had no problems and my boat spends 6 to 8 months each year on her mooring. When I removed the teak bow platform this spring for refinishing, the chocks were not the least bit loose. I agree with Mac- put 'em in the wood.
bob23
 

Touched base with Gerry at Compac this morning. He confirmed your opinions. Said that they have never had a boat come back with damage to the bow sprit due to the placement of the chocks.
Marc

Bob23
Does your mooring line chaff against the bobstay under certain tide/wind conditions?
BL

            "Does your mooring line chaff against the bobstay under certain tide/wind conditions?"

Don't know yet. The boat won't be in the water until next spring. I suspect there will be times when that will happen happen. I plan on putting some chafe protection on the mooring lines at the appropriate places just in case.

Marc

Well, Bob- truth be told- yes, the mooring lines do rub a bit on the bobstay. But I have had no chafing there. When tide moves the boat around more than the wind, it means that the wind is so light as to exert no pressure on the lines. Once the wind picks up, it usually overcomes the tidal force on the boat. Plus, I fly a steadying sail to help keep her straight into the wind. It cuts the swing at anchor or mooring in half and helps keep some strain off the mooring tackle. It high winds, it actually trys to sail the boat forward just a bit, removing even more force off the mooring and/or anchoring tackle. Here it is:
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt260/Bob23_photo/Koinonia.jpg)
Bob23

Skip,
I've been thinking about replacing my cleat with a samson post & I really like yours. Do you know the manufacturer? The closest I've come to it is this one from Sea-Dog. Yours looks more business-like and I prefer the rod to be higher like yours as well.
The specs for it are:
post diameter 2"
height 4.25"
rod length 5"
base 3.56" square
Is that about your dimensions?
Marc
(http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t486/sail19/209669F-f_zpsafc8c09f.jpg)

I think Skip's post is home made from parts of Tiger Wood's yacht.  Do they call it a Gov't job Skip?

TG

The Sampson post on Comfort & Joy, a CP-19, is from drops fished out of the garbage can at Palmer Johnson Yachts during the build of a Sport Yacht 150 for Tiger woods as reported above. Oh to be sure it's a government job. Gratis.

The material is Aluminium-Bronze and is used as fuel line and I cut up some to size and made an Aluminium-Bronze base plate with the same bolt pattern that the factory cleat has. Reused the fasteners too.

She is all TIG'ed together. The top of the tube which was open is filled from the bottom 'cope' that was hole sawed out from the base. The vertical tube fits down inside the base plate for maximum strength. The cross bar is simply a stainless steel tube cut from scrap and pounded into a drilled hole and epoxied in place.

The entire tube was epoxy filled, top to bottom so it will rip out of the deck before the tube fails or dents. Took about two hours to build from scratch. No I'm not going to build you one.

skip.

Come on, Skip, every man has his price. Now that we've seen it, we all want one. This could be a major revenue stream for you.

Sorry. All 520+ guys at Palmer Johnson Yachts were laid-off [fired] just weeks after the last presidential election...seems the wealthy figured they would be so wealthy any more and these buyers paid a few $million up front and walked away from their $44 million dollar yacht contracts. Five contracts to be exact. Same thing happened to our competitors. We still have unfinished boats. Two were sold to Russians and have yet to be finished...a payment thing. A  few guys, like 'wood chucks' for example, get called back for a few weeks then they are gone again. Yes it is dollars that [$'s] trickle down. Not up. How can it? And besides 'there ain't no more scrap'.

And I'm bitter. Mitt is it. skip.

Regarding chafe.   Seadog sells a twin pack of leather line covers for around $6 a pair.  Includes twine and needle.   
They are very effective and could be used on the edge of the bowsprit (sewed to the line so it stays put) to keep the line from chafing the edge of the bowsprit.

If putting these over the thick portion of a splice, buy the next size up so they will fit correctly.

I use the Jack Benny type. Old Carhart work pants material held in place with Harbor Freight electrical tape. El cheapo, to be sure but works great. Total cost for 2 mooring lines: Too little to calculate.
bob23

Looking on-line I see that the description of various chocks give a screw size to use in fastening them down. What's the reasoning behind that? My 1st inclination would be to thru-bolt them. It's not like a tabernacle where you'd want it to rip out before wrecking the deck. If a chock fails, your line will fail next and you potentially lose your boat.

Also, I assume most mooring lines you'd encounter at marinas are 3/4" diameter or smaller. That requires a 4" long chock. A chock large enough to accommodate a 1" line is 6" long - seems too big for our boats. Are most of you using a 4"?

This board is a great source of information! Thank you!
Marc

It looks like the chocks on my 23 are about 4" and screwed down. I had a chock pull out on my 16 while at anchor, I don't remember if that one was just screwed on or through-bolted on the deck (it was a 1980 model, so no bow sprit).

Here's a picture of my 23's bow setup.

(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-1Jo8EU3tjms/TLJkVNIj_pI/AAAAAAAABBM/D2LmpVU7PZQ/s400/17%2520-%2520Bowsprit.JPG)

Hey Bob!

I bet the Carhart chafe guards work well.   And as you said, quite affordable!

Intersting enough, I pulled the boat this week and while washing the lines, noticed a large amount of fraying on one of the dock lines. It cut the cover and was chewing into the core.  The fray was about 2" from the end of the leather chafe guard.  This chafe guard is the first bend around the dock cleat, the frayed area was probably rubbing up against the leather!  Will have to keep an eye on the new line next year--I literally didn't notice it despite uncleating the line at least once a week all summer.

Hello Marc:
I have an extra set of chocks off of either a C-23 or C-27.  However they are the same size as those on my C-16 (2.5 inches between mounting holes).  Not much use for an extra set here in Eastern MT.  They are yours for the price of postage if you still need them.
regards charlie

Charlie, Thanks for the offer. I'm interested if they are skene chocks that can handle a 3/4" line.
Marc

Hey Marc:
Sorry to say that the gap between the horns is 5/8 inch.  That would be the max size line that would fit into the chocks.  Anyone else need some chocks?
regards charlie

"...various chocks give a screw size to use in fastening them down..."

Who uses a wood screw? Through bolts, washers to spread out the forces, and ny-loc nuts.

A four inch chock is more than plenty. Most dock lines I have seen appear to be too large in dia.
Darn near pick the whole boat out of the water with the dock lines. Well all most. Just an example.

skip.

Mine are fastened with wood screws...they work fine. There is no lateral load on the chocks when the boat is at a mooring. My 23 has endured 60 mph gusts at her mooring...no problemo!
bob23
Charlie: Are your chocks bronze?

Hey Capt'n Bob:
Yes, the chocks are bronze....just like the ones in the C-16 bowsprit thread.
regards charlie

Just have to ask: why do the lines have to be 3/4?
Why not do a leader line off the boat like 7/16 through the chock with a bolen knot to a 3/4 line?

3/4 just sounds excessive to me.
Am I missing something here?

Mac

   No your'e not missing a thing. 3/4 is excessive but it's a nice thought. I use 2 1/2" lines although in the past I used 5/8". I found the 1/2" to be fine and I can wind around the cleat more. I did learn in my endless quest for knowledge that 3 strand nylon can loose 20% of it's strength when it's wet, which mine always is.
   My boat gets new mooring lines every year, even if the old ones look ok. Cheap insurance!
bob23

Sometimes the easiest solutions are right in front of my face. A leader line - I hope I would of thought of that someday.
Marc

Along with that leader line mark you could do a couple of thimbles which would then have the wear on them instead of the lines where they connect.
If you dont know what I mean by thimble, I have on on my anchor line I can take a picture of for you.

Just let me know
Mac

I know what a thimble is and have spliced them into a line.
But why not just loop 2 eyes together? The eye of the leader line looped through the eye of the mooring line. Would look like this:
(http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t486/sail19/IMGP7255_zps2d67da85.jpg)

AH-HA!
Excellent work, I forgot about that knot.
I would think that would do just fine as there wont be any loosening and tightening causing much chafe.

For some reason in my head I only had Bolen Knots, But this would be excellent.

Mac

Can someone tell me where I can get that neat little bracket that chinches down the anchor stem (see Skip's photos)? Gerry at Hutchens said they do stock that item.

I used to have a Hunter 23 that I moored, it didn't have any bow chocks, either.
I made up a mooring pendant that attached to the bow eye, and was the length of the boat.
Hooking and unhooking meant bringing the stern up alongside the mooring ball, I would then just reach over and grab the snap shackle.
It was actually much easier than boats I have owned with bow chocks, you don't have to go forward!
When you unhook, you just flip the pendant over the life line, and it lays on the gunwale, down the length of the boat.
-Dave

Quote from: dbinvermont on May 10, 2013, 06:24:59 AM
I used to have a Hunter 23 that I moored, it didn't have any bow chocks, either.
I made up a mooring pendant that attached to the bow eye, and was the length of the boat.
Hooking and unhooking meant bringing the stern up alongside the mooring ball, I would then just reach over and grab the snap shackle.
It was actually much easier than boats I have owned with bow chocks, you don't have to go forward!
When you unhook, you just flip the pendant over the life line, and it lays on the gunwale, down the length of the boat.
-Dave

I thought about this too but I'm in a crowded mooring field and want to avoid any possibility of bumping another boat.