Hi Everyone,
10 minute project! (Well.....10 minutes to the store, 10 minutes in the store, 10 minutes back, 1 minute to realize I needed 4 bushings not 2, repeat trip to store, 10 minutes of work to install)
Bored out worn holes to 1/2", dropped in 1/2" OD 3/8" ID x 1" long bushings, new SS 3/8" bolts used for pins. I was a bit worried about the strength-reduction in the aluminum castings resulting from taking the hole from 5/16" to 1/2", but it looks strong enough.
Nice smooth rudder action now.
Original Condition
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/Original1981gudgeoncondition.jpg)
Boring out original holes
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/Drillingtherudder-sidebushinghole.jpg)
1/2" hole to accept bushing
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/reboredgudgeon.jpg)
Bushing installed
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/bushingingudgeon.jpg)
Final Assembly
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/RebushedGudgeons.jpg)
-Jason
Nice work Jason. Looks like it's certainly do-able by a neophyte like me. I was just wondering if you thought it might be a good idea to use a nylock nut on the bottom?
Good clear photos and a good project. Thanks for posting.
Jason you got it wrong! Bushings shoulder to shoulder. Let the bronze ride on the bronze. You don't need the bronze under the bolt head and where are the ss flat washers...? It's bolthead, washer-washer, bronze-bronze, washer-washer, lock nut. I put lock nuts up so I can see if they loosen up.
skip.
(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh299/1930fordroadster/ComPac%2019/DSC00392.jpg)
Drum roll...........
Ta da!
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/finalruddergudgeonassembly.jpg)
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/rudderbracketrebuild.jpg)
Take care all.
Jason
I keep the nuts on the bottom so if I lose one, I don't lose the bolt too. Looks great Jason! Thanks for posting. I will be following your lead when I haul my '16 out for the winter.
Ladies and Gentlemen...in this corner- the Amazing Jason who can reverse bronze bushings before your very eyes! Don't try this trick at home, kids...this guy is a trained professional!
Jason:
Thanks for the great photos. I've done a similiar project except that, because I'm a salt water guy, I needed to add zincs. With the aluminum, brinze and stainless, I'm a battery just waiting to corrode. And I've also added some nylon washers and shims where the rudder blade pivots in the rudder head. I'm amazed how fast salt water can eat through an aluminum casting.
Did you get your bronze bushings at Lowe's?
bob23
Hi, I got the bushings at Menards (similar to Lowes but regional/midwest). I don't have the receipt but I think they were $2/ea. Anyone doing the project, remember to get 4, not just 2. I got 1/2 od, 3/8 id 1"L, and I used some locktite as I thought the interference fit was not interfering enough. Very pleased with the rudder feel after this project.
Might not this whole project be put off for years if proper torque is put on the lock nuts? The tiller still turns free and with no slop, but the lop sided load is placed on the washers and shoulders, not the bore and shafts. I think that this is a good temporary repair even with lopsided bores. Always use a good water proof grease after each inspection.
I still have not launched "Slow Dancing" but she is looking better each day, my sweetheart too. . .