The "cavity [in the rudder head] into which the [rudder] blade slides" is way too wide for the tension handle to be of any use on my Sun Cat. I suspect that shims on either side of the blade would correct the problem. If you have encountered this issue, how did you resolve it? If you used a shim, what material did you use for the shim?
Tom, CP 17 SC 377, Cattail, Lake Harris, FL
The aluminium head [blade] on my IdaSailor rudder rattles around in the CP-19 factory [squish plate] that should be pulled together with the brass handle just like you described.
With a mighty and painfull pull on the handle a pretty good grip can be had.
However this is no match for the seaweed living in the harbor where she is tied up. So my solution?
While on the trailer, the rudder was shoved as far fwd as possible and a hole was drilled through everything and a snowblower shear pin was bolted in.
Works for me. skip.
Not much else you can do with a snowblower shear pin around here anyway.
Tom
I have fixed this same issue on other rudders built similarly to the compacs. We use coffee tin caps. The plastic material makes a great shim and helps maintain that slide capability without any other holes or etc.
They hold up a long while also and is a green fix LOL
Hope that helps
Mac
Thanks, Mac. I may have one or two of those lying around.
Tom
You can also get nylon spacers at Lowes or maybe HD. I bought 'em at Lowe's to take up the same slack in my 23. Not real expensive either.
bob23
I don't bother with the tention. I pin mine down.
Some folks have complained about "excessive" weatherhelm on their Sun Cats. I do not experience it on mine (with stock rudder) and offer the following comments which may help to remedy that characteristic.
Regardless of how you "fix" the rudder in the down position there is one very important thing to remember.
Make absolutely sure that it is in the FULLY DOWN position (against the stop and angled slightly forward) before "fixing" it! Otherwise, you will feel more weather helm than usual which could become a two handed struggle with the tiller should the winds (and forces on the rig) increase.
If you look at the FULLY DOWN position when on the trailer you can clearly see the slightly forward angle of the rudder under the hull. Gravity alone, in or out of the water will not take the rudder to its FULLY DOWN position. It actually needs a push below the pivot pin to get there. If not FULLY DOWN, and even slightly back, the rudder begins to present a longer linear surface area over which water will flow requiring more tiller pressure to counteract the additional force against the rudder (a lever under water).
Once out on the water, after releasing the tension lever and letting the rudder swing down, I lean way down and with right hand push the rudder below the pivot pin to the FULLY DOWN position and while holding it there tighten the tension lever with left hand. If you can do this on your launch ramp so much the better.
capt_nemo
Solution: FYI, I used nylon washers (suggested by Craig D.) secured with Scotch tape (suggested by Tom Scott). Thanks to Everyone!
Tom