I am about to pull my newly acquired 1979 16 and paint her, but am soooooo confused about the info out there. Would be glad of some solid advice on paint. My boat has a lot of weed, and spends most of its life on a mooring on biscayne bay miami. Seems like I will need some kind of epoxy coating before bottom paint? All help appreciated.
jeff
Moored boats need an epoxy barrier coat to prevent osmotic blistering.
Here in Florida, we also need some anti-fouling paint on top of the barrier coat to slow the accumulation of barnacles and scum.
I like Interlux products and have used their Interprotect epoxy barrier coat and their Micron ablative ant-fouling paint to keep the critters off.
Jeff - suggest you pick a paint company (Interlux, Awlgrip, etc.) then stick to their products and system. I also like Interlux and used Interprotect 2000 as the epoxy barrier coat followed in my case with Micron CSC anti fouling. The application instructions are on the web site and are very particular regarding pre-cleaning with wax remover, sanding, # of coats, applying anti fouling while final coat of epoxy is still tacky, etc. This is a time consuming, dirty, finicky project but if done well will last the lifetime of the boat (with occasional refreshing of the anti fouling depending on how long it takes to wear off).
Wes
thank you so much, I was thinking of going with interlux anyway...do I need the epoxy barrier on the topsides too?
Jeffcom16, I just talked to my Interlux Rep today, about doing a bottom job and doing topsides, and deck.
He suggested a 2000 interprotect job on the bottom with Micron CSC. With the water you plan to use it in, I would make sure it is what you want, but Micron CSC is a great paint, I have rolled a ton of it.
The 2000 is awesome as well, with a 6 month between coats window. the critical stage is the last coat of interprotect to the paint. Like three hours between. This creates a chemical bond, not a mechanical bond.
Also, with both products be sure to use what they recommend, It is a long explanation behind it, but trust me, it makes sense.
For the CP19 I will need 2 gallons of interprotect, and one gallon of Micron CSC (cheaper to buy a gallon than 3 quarts) The Micron needs to be applied with a fuzzy roller, and this will help the polymers bond between the coats of paint.
For topsides and decks, he recommended that I use 2000 if I go down to glass. That is a possibility for me, as some spots are almost to the glass anyway.
After the 2000 cures, sand it smooth, then top coat with Epoxy Prime coat. There is another primer called prekote, but I recommend the Epoxy prime coat as there is issue if you use prekote and a 2 part paint like "Perfection". 2 part paints are incompatable with one part paints. (meaning if you use a one part and then top coat with a 2 part, it will chemically debond the one part paint.)
There is no issues doing a 2 part paint, then over coating with a one part.
He recommended I use Perfection on the deck and topsides, and for the non skid use interdeck. (But I am completely sanding off my non skid due to pitting damages down to the glass.)
This is a lot to swallow, let me know If I can be of more help.
Mac
As mentioned, I used Interprotect 2000 followed by Micron CSC, all below the waterline. The 3 hour dry is not correct; Interlux's instructions are very precise: you must apply the first anti fouling coat when the last epoxy barrier coat reaches "thumb print" stage, meaning it is still tacky enough to take a thumbprint but dry enough that no paint comes off on your thumb. Working during a warm and humid NC spring, this took less than 30 minutes for me. You really have to be ready to move fast with the anti fouling when the moment arrives. Otherwise, poor adhesion.
Above the waterline, I used Epoxy Prime-Coat followed by Perfection. I cannot imagine why you would need Interprotect above the waterline - and believe me I read every piece of product literature from Interlux and watched every how-to video.
For the deck, my factory nonskid was in pretty good shape but I was planning on painting the deck (cream colored, aka Hatteras White) and was concerned about losing nonskid performance, so I added Interlux's powdered nonskid additive to the two part poly and rolled it on after masking off the non-non-skid areas. I really love that stuff - it provides a beautiful leathery kind of texture. I have heard good things about the Kiwi stuff too.
(http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h411/wnewman/IMG_2857253x190avatar.jpg)
The thumb print test is a good way of telling as well. And it will be different for the enviroment you paint in. But my Rep says his general rule of thumb (no pun intended) is 3 hours be sure to roll on paint.
I have watched some boaters really stretch that time frame and no issues. But I like to stay true to the specs especially since we gaurantee the work.
Either thumb print or clock watching, that is critical to a good bond.
Mac
I was thinking about painting my dingy, after a good power sanding with MinWax white Urethane outside and Boston Whaler Urethane blue on the inside.
The KISS method.
skip.
thank you so much. i love this site almost as much as i love my boat. guess i'll plan to use 2000 followed by CSC on the bottom and prime coat and perfection on the top and deck. have a while before i begin so have plenty of time to now familiarize myself with each product. plan on reading and watching the videos so i get this right! i sure don't want to spend all that $$ and have my paint fall off
thanks again
jeff
my boat has been painted before, and i am concerned when reading about epoxy primecoat that it states "do not apply over one part paints" unfortunately i do not know if the paint i have is one part or not??? help appreciated
That's why you need some kind of a 'barrier' coat. Like lacquer over enamel or vis-a-versa.
skip.
Jeff - Interlux tech support has a method for determining whether your unknown paint is one or two part. Can't recall the method but I have read about it in one of their product documents. Suggest you give them a call - I have found them helpful. One reason I ended up picking their products, as opposed to Awlgrip (which many pro painters swear by) is Interlux's vast array of printed and video support info aimed at end users rather than pros.
Wes
thanks wes, finally got to speak to an interlux rep today who helped me to decide to go with prekote and brightside for the topsides as i have previous paint and dont feel like removing it all. will also stick to interprotect and micron csc on the bottom....will post some before and after pics if it turns out ok!