Looking for a good solid transom swim ladder - Hutchins wants a bit much for their's ( $300)
so I am trying to find a deal on another brand - perhaps used one off a salvaged boat, or
can I get ideas on some fabricator shop that makes rails and other stainless stuff for boats ?
i hope that you get some helpful responses here.. i am looking for the same thing! jt
I don't know what brand I have; it was on the boat when I bought it. Well made, simple it swings up and down and is mounted on 2 pivoting brackets and ties off to the stern rail. Here are a couple of shots:
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt260/Bob23_photo/51907launch04.jpg)
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt260/Bob23_photo/Koinonia%20rudder%20project/Woodfoiledblade.jpg)
300 clams does sound a bit high. Maybe check Defender?
bob23
I installed a small Garelick (http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=18627&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=50304&subdeptNum=50353&classNum=50354) ladder on my CP16, cost about $100 from West Marine. It was sturdy, but might be a bit small for the 23. I had it shipped to a local store (to save on shipping) and an older gentleman that was working there said it was a popular ladder.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-xIqtTSnE22s/TKEyj5h4jZI/AAAAAAAAA-Y/7FPyuozfCn0/s400/Ladder.JPG)
I have one like Nate s - I have rebuilt it so many times it is a bit of an adventure to climb. When you are looking for a ladder make sure it extends well below the water line like Bob23 appears to do. You don t want to have your knees in your face when you try to climb on - especially in choppy conditions. I also like the flat steps instead of the round ones. Much more comfortable. Matt
(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh299/1930fordroadster/ComPac%2019/DSC00385.jpg)
The Factory ladder. A three point set-up.
Came with the boat.
skip.
Yes - I've got the factory ladder just like Skip's. I like that it's hinged at the bottom, so it drops plenty far down into the water and when folded up is very unobtrusive - you can't even see it from the cockpit. True that the round tubes are harder on wet feet than flat wood or plastic ones, but this isn't a big issue. I spend a lot more time sailing than swimming. The primary purpose of the ladder is to get a MOB back into the boat, for which it's a lifesaver. An essential piece of safety gear - I would not want to sail a 19, with its high freeboard, without one.
Wes
Primary use MOB? I don't think so.... How else are we supposed to get to the slushie mobile and back!!!
Brenda
Now we know why Brenda is the Admiral while Mike is only a captain!
check this out and let me know what you think.. it looks like it could be a possible candidate.. and stainless construction is a nice feature.. http://www.buyboatladders.com/transom-mounted-boat-sailboat-ladder.html jt
Nice one! Good find.
(http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af200/brackish_photos/ImprovementsArion045.jpg)
Factory standard with "foot comfort" option. Pipe insulation with Sunbrella covers, velcro along the wrap edge and on the ends. Not as good as flat but better than bare tube.
I'm with Brenda, we use the ladder a lot. When it is too hot and still to sail, the boat essentially becomes a swim platform.
I trail a 25 foot tough but thin nylon line with a bobber attached to the ladder when sailing. I pull it in when motoring.
Since I sail alone this would be my last chance to unclasp the fold down the ladder in the event of going over the side under sail with all lines locked down...I can imagine Comfort & Joy continuing to drive past me. That would be curtains for me. That would make the wife happy but the dog sad. A guy could cut some teak boards and cope them out for the verticals and span the round flats. Affix them to the round ss bars with flush ss. screws. Ahhhhhh comfort on the feet. Bob Burgess has his fold down tractor step bolted to his metal rudder blade.
skipister.
This is a timely thread. I will be in need of a ladder too soon (I hope).
How about installation? I know the holes will be above the water line but I am still somewhat uneasy about drilling holes in a perfectly good boat! Are the holes all the way through the hull or just through the outside layer (sorry, dont know the terminology).
thanks,
sal
Skip,
"I trail a 25 foot tough but thin nylon line with a bobber attached to the ladder when sailing. "
That is a good idea but two things come to mind. First 25' may not be long enough. If the boat is doing 5 knots that line will be gone in 3 seconds. That isn't much time for you to get to it. If you do get to it a thin line moving a 9' per second is going to be very hard to hold on to. Even a thicker line moving that fast will be hard to hold on to and it will be very difficult to pull oneself back to the boat into a 5 knot current.
I have a thick 50' or 100' floating line for the same reason. However, I rarely tow it as I feel it gives a little bit of a false sense of security due to the above reasons.
I think a better bet would be towing a line that if tugged on unlocks the tiller or kicks up the rudder. Then the boat would head up and it would give one a chance to get back to the boat. Would be pretty easy to do this with my tiller lock but a little harder with the tiller pilot.
Shawn
Sal,
The bolts are through bolted all the way through. On the 23 be ready for some contortions as you have to climb into the seat locker to get to the backside. It gets painful standing on your head working down there. I did it replacing the gudgeon and again mounting blocks at the rear for my spinnaker and drifter. Open the other side for some breeze.
Shawn
Good thought, can't say I could hang onto the thin line...the line is only to pull down [ unfold ] the ladder. Getting to the ladder in a timely fashion is the problem after that. I'd just figure I'd grab the line while in the process of going overboard.
I hope.
And Saluki86, yes the transom is maybe 3/8 of an inch thick so drilling clean through the fiberglass transom and it's plywood reinforcing plate fiberglassed into that area of the transom and sealing the bolts in the holes is necessary. Use a good back-up plate on the inside right over the factory plywood; strength is all about spreading out the weight.
skip.
Quote from: Shawn on July 03, 2012, 02:58:01 PM
Skip,
"I trail a 25 foot tough but thin nylon line with a bobber attached to the ladder when sailing. "
I think a better bet would be towing a line that if tugged on unlocks the tiller or kicks up the rudder. Then the boat would head up and it would give one a chance to get back to the boat. Would be pretty easy to do this with my tiller lock but a little harder with the tiller pilot.
Shawn
Skip, you could just tie it to your snow blower pin. Just a thought.
I too have the factory ladder.works great except a bit hard on the feet. Gonna rig some steps soon, or at least pads.
I did find one of these out at anclote island a few weeks ago....
http://www.easternmarine.com/standard-3-step-boat-ladder-p-3w
No holes required. But I dont need two ladders. It would work great on a 16. Ill give it to anyone who wants it, just come get it or pay for shipping.
Sold!! Ha! Can u email me and I will send a check to cover shipping
I use a folding ladder/steps pictured below. I can move this from the transom to hull side, in which case the ladder extends well below the waterline, making it much easier to board, either from the water or when the boat is on on the trailer. I also use the hardware across the transom to mount a gallows for the mast.
Unfortunately the folding steps are no longer manufactured- I found mine on ebay. I believe the manufacturer was Wesbar??
(http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n639/millsfamily1/family/Compac%20Construction/swimladderhullside.jpg)
(http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n639/millsfamily1/family/Compac%20Construction/swimladderontransom.jpg)
Chris, C-23