I've removed the slides and handrail to clean both the slides and cabin top. The hatch slides much better after a good cleaning/Wax.
The decision now is how to finish the wood bits once cleaned, oil, varnish or other. There is remaining varnish on the slides, but clearly hasn't held up well.
Then again I have no idea when the varnish was done. Also the handrails need to be trimmed of the end that sticks out. I'm really considering not putting them back on.
Any suggestions for the group?
(http://www.buildboats.com/nowood.jpg)
(http://www.buildboats.com/wood01.jpg)
Personally I think a large part of the appeal of our Com-Pac's come from their salty look. The woodwork is one of the biggest reasons for this appearance. I wouldn't remove them permanently especially when you consider the safety issues involved. Hutchins sells replacement handholds for a very reasonable price. If you think yours aren't worth saving, order some new ones.
Mike
Quote from: Spartan on April 06, 2012, 09:46:24 AM
The decision now is how to finish the wood bits once cleaned, oil, varnish or other. There is remaining varnish on the slides, but clearly hasn't held up well.
Then again I have no idea when the varnish was done.
Spar varnish looks really nice but, if your boat sits out in the sunlight, you may need to cover it to keep the UV light from damaging the finish.
Here in Florida the sun can destroy a nice looking varnish job in just a few months of direct exposure so varnish must be maintained regularly.
Because I wanted greater durability, I elected to use Cetol, a varnish-like finish that holds up well in harsh conditions.
Although Cetol is not as pretty as fresh varnish, it looks better than peeling varnish.
However, if you cover your boat when not sailing, varnish might be the answer.
Good point Mike, I'm going to give them a clean and trim on the chop saw and make a decision at that point.
Pacman : she will be in the water all summer in a dock at a state park neat Pittsburgh PA so lots of sun all summer.
I'll check into cetol
Thanks
Quote from: Spartan on April 06, 2012, 01:51:16 PM
she will be in the water all summer in a dock at a state park neat Pittsburgh PA so lots of sun all summer.
If you plan to keep your boat in the water, it is very important that you remember to apply barrier coat to the bottom to prevent osmotic blistering.
Wax will work for occassional weekends in the water but longer immersions will require barrier coat to prevent hull damage.
I like Interlux Interprotect.
I'm letting the teak go back to natural with no varnish, or Cetal.
I might teak brighten the wood after a 3-M Scotch pad buffing.
If that turns out OK, than 5 or six coats of hard MinWax rubbed into the wood...I did this to the bow sprit and it turned out fine.
skip.
Cetol Marine Light is a good durable finish. It does have an orange tint. West Marine flier arrived today. Cetol on sale April 12-22 for $29.99/qt. Fortunately a quart goes a long way.
You may know that ships and boats are always referred to as "she" because it costs so much to keep them in paint and powder.
Enjoy your CP.
Spart:
Whe I had my sliding hatch off, I installed some stick-on felt pads; like the kind you put on furniture feet to protect a wood floor. You can buy 'em in different sizes at HD or Lowe's. The hatch slides easily and the felt eliminates the glass to glass contact area.
bob23
(ps: I like Flagship varnish for it's hard and high gloss finish. Yeah, labor intensive but I like the look, so it's worth it.)
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt260/Bob23_photo/Portsidewinch.jpg)
Dry silicone spray for the sliders works well.
skip.
The time-honored use of candle wax works well too. I also use it on plastic zippers
NAY
Quote from: Bob23 on April 06, 2012, 08:58:22 PM
When I had my sliding hatch off, I installed some stick-on felt pads; like the kind you put on furniture feet to protect a wood floor. You can buy 'em in different sizes at HD or Lowe's. The hatch slides easily and the felt eliminates the glass to glass contact area.
Bob, That sounds like a great idea. It probably sounds better than fiberglass on fiberglass too.
How does it work when the surfaces are wet?
Also, how many did you use? I am thinking that one disk in each corner might do the job but I am interested in hearing more about what you did.
@ Pacman - I'll be refreshing the bottom paint for the season.