Well, new to the forum here. Picked up my CP-19 Saturday. Actually, I bought it from a member (rboteler) of the forum here. Hauled that sucker from St Louis all the way to NE Arkansas, wop-sided tires and all! Took me 5 hours to get there and 9 to get home! A lot of TLC needed, but overall in very good shape. I've got a Sunfish and an Aquafinn and a Stevenson Weekender that I built, but this will be my first "real" sailboat.
A few questions:
This boat was kept in the water APR-SEP and stored in the yard through the winter. It has a barrier coat on the bottom. It has the factory vinyl bootstripe and a hand painted stripe near the top. All are brown. Since the sial covers and lifeline covers and tiller cover are blue, I'm thinking of changing the color on the boat to blue. I have found a nice dark blue barrier coat, but since I will be trailering it, I'm wondering if it would be better to remove the barrier coat compketely. I feel that I can make quick work of the bootstripe but not so sure about the hand painted stripe. Again, looking at rolling and tipping interlux for a new blue top stripe. Whada ya think?
Is the bottom paint you are referring to as a "barrier coat" actually an antifouling bottom paint? They are different animals. A barrier coat is an epoxy applied to protect the GRP from blistering. The antifouling is to slow down marine growth.
I would spray the stripes because I can and am more comfortable with that process. However, many have had good success with roll and tip.
Simple antifouling coat. It will probably never spent more than a week in the water at one time.
Quote from: fawsr on February 15, 2012, 05:49:24 PM
Simple antifouling coat. It will probably never spent more than a week in the water at one time.
Then you need neither. A week at a time is not long enough to induce blisters or marine growth. A lot easier in that case to just clean and wax it and pick up about a half knot in the process.:)
of course getting the existing anti fouling off won't be easy. Think I would just give it a good pressure washing and leave it be.
Welcome Fawsr,
Nice boat, remember it from this site. You're going to love the space and stability. He took good care of it. Boteller seemed like a great guy too.
As for the paint, agree with Brackish. If it's anti-fouling paint only, you could just leave it alone and wash it once in a while. No harm at all will come. Or if you're going for looks, sand it off and go through the painstaking process of bringing her back to shiny gelcoat. Bamboo shafts under fingernails sounds more appealing. Painting the bottom is one thing, sanding/compounding/polishing it is another story! Overtime the paint will wear off, at that point you could either repaint or restore it..would be a lot easier at that point as most of the paint would have worn off. Just sailing the boat wears it away.
Now if it's barrier coat on there--much different than anti-fouling paint as Brackish points out, that stuff is harder than a rock (usually epoxy based). Getting it off will be seriously messy and hard work, or so I've read anyway. Mucho safety apparatus needed too (for either sanding paint or barrier). Usually barrier coats are put on first, then antifouling paint is applied. Be sure what's on there, or under what you see. Barrier coat is usually gray or white in color and doesn't come off on your hand when the boat is wet. You mentioned barrier coat, then antifouling paint so maybe ask Boteller again what exactly is there before you proceed.
Thanks for the replies ... looks like it is gong to be bamboo under the fingernails! I took my 6" buffer and tried to clean up the shadows under the old boat registration numbers. Then I got out my 10" buffer. Long story short, i just bought a 7" / 7 speed polisher. What did I discover? This boat aint white ... it is a light cream color! Why did I start this process?
Anyway, I will power wash the anti-fouling off and take a good look there and will polish above the bootstripe. My only fear is that I will be so consumed with touch-up stuff that I will neglect sailing opportunities!
The trailer is galvanized and looks original. The galvanized is in good shape but all the bolts are pretty rusty. Started replacing all the bolts today. Romoved the bow roller and replaced with a v-pad. Removed the old winch and replaced with a new winch. Will move the boat forward about 3" on the trailer. Really wanting to replace the bottom rollers with a wide board, they are cracked and need replacing anyway.
Would really like to fab up a tongue extender before I do my first launch but really not sure I'll need one yet. We have pretty good ramps on the local lakes, none are too shallow. I can launch our ski boat with the back wheels still completely out of the water, but it sits pretty low too.
Will do a few shake down runs locally but really wanting to head for the gulf in April or May. We'll see.
Topside restoration isn't terrible. Getting the bottom restored is not fun.
Been there done that on topsides.
Wetsanded using 4 or 5 grades, machine compounded, machine polishing took about 20-25 hours on the CP19.
Here's the before pic:
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z290/yamaholic_mcarp/Island%20Time/DSC00826.jpg)
And after...
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z290/yamaholic_mcarp/Island%20Time/DSC01508.jpg)
Indeed the white is oxidation. Frankly everyone's boat has oxidation but until you get some off, or as you've found removed stickers exposing fresh gelcoat, it's easy to ignore or not notice.
Thanks. Seeing your boat before and after pics the other day is what gave me the feeling of gloom & despair...
About sanding, will the machine compounding do much good without sanding? I've made layups and sanded and worked fiberglass (mostly polyester) but am a bit leary of "sanding" on my factory boat! On the other hand, I hate to spend too many hours compounding if I really need to sand it first? Just wondering.
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/fawsrs1984CP19/CP191.jpg)
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/fawsrs1984CP19/CP192.jpg)
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/fawsrs1984CP19/CP193.jpg)
BTW, while buffing the boat i uncovered shadows from the name of the boat while a previous owner had it. On both sides near the stern above the trim line is the shadow of "TOMCAT" ...
Will do a few shake down runs locally but really wanting to head for the gulf in April or May. We'll see.
You should consider the FL120 in May or the BEER cruise the first week in June. I've not done the FL120 but usually about fifty boats with mostly beach or boat camping stops for 120 miles over 5 days. BEER I've done the last two years and will probably do it this year. It is about fifty boats, maybe 60-70 miles overall, with several remote stops and several in areas where there are restaurants and motels. One of our forum members did a nice article on the FL120
Your boat size would be large for the FL120, about average or a little below for the BEER.
These are good Gulf cruises where you are around folks who have done it before and know the area. Mostly stay in Pensacola Bay, Santa Rosa Sound and about to the Alabama line.
I can also see the potential for a Kentucky Lake Voo sometime in the future.:)
Long day ... after buffing with 6" then 10" with rubbing compound proved fruitless, I got out the 7" variable speed polisher with cutting compound ... after 30 minutes I had still acomplished nothing! Went to the store and got 400 and 800 wet/dry sandpaper ... after 20 minutes with the block & 400 paper I'm still not seeing much progress. Broke out the big gun ... with 200 paper! My boat is not white anymore .. it's 2-toned! But the sanding with 200 really does speed things up.
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/fawsrs1984CP19/IMG01642-20120223-2120.jpg)
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/fawsrs1984CP19/IMG01643-20120223-2120.jpg)
Guess I'm going to have to find a stripe for it now!
Before .....
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/fawsrs1984CP19/IMG01641-20120223-2120.jpg)
After ...
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/fawsrs1984CP19/IMG01644-20120223-2120.jpg)
and I thought this was a white boat ...
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/fawsrs1984CP19/CP193.jpg)
Wow..200 grit! Kinda harsh. Are you using a rubber block? If not, I recommend that and being more patient with higher grit. Be careful not to take off too much gelcoat. But I agree if it's heavily oxidized, compounding is worthless, or rather time consuming.
Use some lube (soap/dawn in a spray bottle works great) and the sanding will be a lot easier.
I used 600 grit first--or was it 800? I don't recall. When the color started to came back, I moved up to 1000, then 1200, then 1500 then 2000. At least I think those were the grades (close anyway). What you'll find is after sanding, the surface is clean and back to the factory color again, but dull and with fine scratches. The higher value sandpaper will smooth the scratches up to prepare for the mirror shine.
Then compound with 3M. Last step is 3M Finesse It II polish. Really makes it shine like new.
Yep, keep sanding and moving up grades--you'll get there. The good news is if you keep some good wax on it (I use Collinite Fleet Wax..lasts a season and still beads when hauled), it will stay protected from oxidation. Well, at least for several years anyway.
any sources for ComPac logo or pinstriping? I looked at the Hutchins website but I don't see any parts or accessories.
Hutchins as the logos. Give them a call and ask for Matt in parts.
Their 1/2" gold striping does look pretty nice, but depends on what you're looking for.
Stripes can be found at most any decent boat retailer (defender, west marine, stewart, boatus) in most any color and width you feel will work best.
A marine product called Penetrol is made to restoer faded fiberglass luster, polish metal, make painting and varnishing easier, and prepare old teak or wood for painting. This is recommended by Hutchins, the makers of Com Pac Yachts. Also mentioned in Hand Book of Trailer Sailing by Bob Burgess.
A marine teak wood finish is Deks Olje [ pronounced Decks Olya ] Clean and brighten teak, wet on wet coats of Deks Olje #1 Matt finish till wood won't absorb any more. Let dry and then one coat Deks Olje #2 gloss with 24 hours of dry time 'tween coats.
If polishing with a buffer, which I don't recommend, GMC has a product called Criss Coat for their old lacquer finish on automobiles before they went to powder coated cars with clear coat on top.
I hand buff the CP-19 with Mequire's #9 a couple of times then a few coats of Mother's Wax each season.
skip.
Thanks for all the help guys ... I'm sure I'll stumble a few times just hope I get the shine back. Color. The boat is white and light cream and had brown vinyl bootstripe and hand painted upper stripe. I sanded off the upper stripe and the bootstripe is pretty cut up so will go ahead and remove it too. All the sunbrella covers topside are blue so I was thinking maybe blue stripes but not sure how that would match the cream?
If your going to purchase a stick-on strip, you may have to slide it around a bit for best fit. A good liquid soapy dish washing slather of bubbles on the hull, then the stripe and then squeeze the air out from under the vinyl, starting in the middle and slowly working to the edges and ends, with a rubber wiper like from a bondo can kit, worked well for us at Super Sign Company in Normal, Illinois when we did fire truck logos.
skip
Quote from: fawsr on February 24, 2012, 09:07:56 AM
Thanks for all the help guys ... I'm sure I'll stumble a few times just hope I get the shine back. Color. The boat is white and light cream and had brown vinyl bootstripe and hand painted upper stripe. I sanded off the upper stripe and the bootstripe is pretty cut up so will go ahead and remove it too. All the sunbrella covers topside are blue so I was thinking maybe blue stripes but not sure how that would match the cream?
Send me a PM with your mailing address and I'll send you a couple rolls of dark blue that I had considered putting on my 19. That way you can put some on and see if you like it without spending the money.
Mike
Thank You! I had looked at some two tone and some metallic in copper/gold/brown because I did like the original color scheme but the sunbrella is all bright blue rather than maroon or red or brown. Kinda looks good n blue topsides but just doesnt match from the sides and I fugured tape is cheaper than new covers for everything.
Wow ... started power washing the anti-fouling ... very lttle coming off ... scrubbed with a stiff brush ... still not much coming off ... started wet sanding with 220 wet/dry ... under the anti-fouling is a very scuffed up hull. Looks like someone took an abrasive or paint stripping scotch brite and really scuffed it hard before applying the coating. The scatches are not deep enough to feel but they are deep enough to make this chore a big pain in the rear.
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/fawsrs1984CP19/scuff.jpg)
Salty 19 - Island Time ... did you designthat logo online or with an app? Been looking for a place to get my logo done.
Anyone else here have custom vinyl graphics or lettering done? Any recommendations?
(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh299/1930fordroadster/ComPac%2019/DSC00403.jpg)
Local sign shop. Guy did it on a small CNC cutter, once for the background [tan] of the lettering, then for the lettering [brown] itself.
Brought the 'look' up on the scope so I could decide.
Had many fonts to pick from, took one day for him to cut the vinyl and come over and slap it on the sides of my boat.
He charged $50.00 which I felt was a good deal.
skip.
Thanks skip ... looks really nice.
On another note .. have decided not to try and remove the anti-fouling this spring. Am going to change the color though. As mentioned earlier, is just a good power washing sufficient before top coating? The stuff is pretty soft but pretty thick.
Fawsr - a few comments based on my refinishing a 1988 CP 19 hull this past year:
1. Unless you are recoating with same brand/model of bottom paint, compatibility is a serious issue. Interlux and other paint makers publish compatibility charts on their web sites. If you can't identify the old paint, safest thing is to sand it off (messy, but satisfying). Which leads to item #2.
2. If you're sanding anyway, I would then apply an epoxy barrier coat before reapplying the anti fouling paint. It's great insurance against any chance of blistering. Again, compatibility is critical, consult manufacturer's recommendation.
3. Don't use Penetrol (mentioned earlier in this thread) to "renew" your fiberglass. Various web forums are crawling with horror stories about this product causing your hull to turn brown over time. Unless you like the idea of a brown hull.
4. You may find an upper stripe (sheer stripe) that's actually molded into the hull. Mine had this "feature" (it was brown and about 6" wide). Stop sanding before you grind off the gel coat trying to get rid of it. I painted over mine.
Wes
Thanks Wes. Concernig the sheer stripe - someone had hand painted - with a brush - a wide sheer stripe. It sanded off rather easily and revealed the factory seam. The hull is cream and there is a 6" wide molded in white line from sheer stripe to the joint. The transition line is fine in some areas with as much as 1/8" wave in some areas. This may need to be professionally stripied as my hand is given to waviness!.
The boot stripe was vinyl and peeled off easily. I am replacing both with a medium blue stripe. A wide stipe at the bottom and thinking of two thin lines at the top.
Concerning the antifouling - the existing dark brown coating is thick but soft. There is an underlying coating that is a lighter color of reddish brown that is slick, not soft, but definately not epoxy. It sands softer than enamel paint. DOnt know if it was a prep coat or someting else. Anyway, the hull was severly scuffed up during original application and I will wait until a later date to clean and polish below the bootstripe. I have just now been reading on the various websites the prep steps to applying antifouling over an existig coat.
Thanks again.
fawsr, "have decided not to try and remove the anti-fouling this spring. Am going to change the color though"
Same here. Factory brown coat. Years later lightly sanded this coat and washed off the gunk. Using water base house paint, painted it again back to brown. Stood up for years...two years ago, sanded lightly, washed off the gunk. Repainted again with 'real' anti grass paint that I found in a close out sale. Still hanging on as shown in the picture.
skip.
Thanks Skip, just what I needed to hear! Having originally wanted to strip it off, I had decided to swap sanding time for sailing time and just leave it on there. Having already pressure washed it, now I think I will sand it and roll on some exterior latex and smile for another year or two.
The Island Time logo is a font I found at boatus.com. They have an easy to use design tool (colors, backgrounds, highlights, shadows, etc) and will print the graphic. Check it out.
Thank You Mike, the tape arrived today. I had already stuck some blue dollar store vinyl on it to preserve the line for when the real tape goes back on. I like the blue color and seeing it on my boat confirms that it will be a good match. After talking to some of the guys I've decided against stripping below the waterline and will simply sand and paint it with a nice dark blue exterior latex I had mixed today. I have really sanded it to death and still have faint white shadows of oxidation. I finally went thru the gelcoat at a corner so I know now when to stop. Its taking longer than expected but it is coming along. Thanks again.
BTW ... Calico Rock is about an hour north of here. :-)
Question - having never sailed anything other than board boats, windriders and hobies - does anyone use the winches on the coaming? I don't have a winch handle and wonder if I will even need one?
Oh heck yes. You need one. A red floating one.
West Marine.
You will not be able to hand hold alone the straining head sheet. Cut your hand off if you try in a blow.
I use the handle in the winch all the time.
Two to three wraps of the sheet attached to a 155% lapper around the drum and one foot on vertical house bulkhead and pull with your back and arm with other hand on the tiller...just before everything loose starts to slide to the lee side. Great fun. I can also use the winch to tighten the main sheet halyard to the Pentel mark on the sheet...when I see the mark in the rope clutch, I slap her closed.
(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh299/1930fordroadster/n601726097_959087_8944-1.jpg)
See the RED Handle?
Yes I do ... and I think that is the same one I was considering. I have original Main and a furling jib ... didn't know if I would ever need the winch.
"Tho' I've belted you and flayed you, By the livin' Gawd that made you, You're a better man than I am, Gunga Din!"
I need the wench..errr winch.
skippster.
I never need the winch handle Just point into the wind a bit and heave...then again I don't run super tight sheets and only run the 140% genoa in lighter breeze (maybe up to 12ish). If it's blowing harder than that I switch out to a 110% jib, thus less sheet effort is required.
Anyone know what mounted here (right bulkhead)?
I am assuming it was a compass.
Before I clean off the remains would like to know if the same model is still avaialbe?
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/fawsrs1984CP19/mount.jpg)
Also, my bow navigation lights are working
I had to redo the installation of the white stern light but it is working now
The mast light is not working - the socket is in real bad shape too.
I have identified the cabin light circuit breaker (yellow wire)
The bow lights (grey wire) and the stern light (green wire) both work off the circuit with the green wire
The mast light is dead but the circuit breaker is the blue wire
I can not find anything fed by the fourth breaker (grey wire)
Any ideas?
Also, the stern light obviously is only visible from the rear and the mast light from the front.
Do I need an all around light to be legal in the gulf??
looks like an inclinometer. it tells you the heel of the boat. there should be a small metallic ball inside with graduations along the curved tube. sometimes they are dampened with a liquid.
carl
the black part is one solid piece of plastic and the white line is actually an adheasive foam strip - leftovers of a mount I'm thinking. Just wondered if anyone had mounted a similar looking base ...
Quote from: fawsr on March 07, 2012, 01:52:47 PM
I have identified the cabin light circuit breaker (yellow wire)
The bow lights (grey wire) and the stern light (green wire) both work off the circuit with the green wire
The mast light is dead but the circuit breaker is the blue wire
I can not find anything fed by the fourth breaker (grey wire)
Any ideas?
Also, the stern light obviously is only visible from the rear and the mast light from the front.
Do I need an all around light to be legal in the gulf??
Here is a picture of the wiring diagram in the CP manual. No grey wire to be found, maybe a PO's installation. The white all around is necessary if you plan to anchor out. B and I usually just tied an LED lantern to the shrouds instead of adding an all around light to the mast. The 3 AA batteries lasted about 3 - 4 nights of usage. Simple and cheap.
(http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt211/greene2108/1988%20Com-Pac%2019/DSC03339.jpg)
Mike and B
I think crazycarl is spot on.
Probably the rear plate of "Lev-o-gage", the gauge portion missing.
See this link.
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C118%7C311631&id=1329452
Thanks Greene for the schematic ... and as for the mounting pad, I hate to think what 'color' is beneath it!!
Took a break from the hull today and knocked around inside. Except for steaming light all is good electrically. Found a lot of hidden dirt dobber nests but all in all in pretty good shape. The mounting hardware for the mast base plate needs rebedding but no other problems noted.
My old style flate plate rudder has some serious galvanic corrosion. I will build an foiled rudder later this year but for now was just gonna sandblast and powder coat. The heat of powder coating precludes me from using filler so ... powder coat or fill and paint?
I am not aware of anyone here who has painted or powder coated the flat rudder plate. The movement of the plate inside the upper casting as you swing it up and down will scrape off whatever coating you apply, so bare aluminum is de riguer.
The cast parts above the rudder plate (pintle and gudgeon) are a different story. Several of us including me have tried powder coating. Problem is, the cast alumininum tends to outgas during the baking process, which causes the finish to bubble. You can google "cast aluminum out gassing during powder coating" and read all about it. I did mine in black, and as long as you don't examine it too closely it looks nice.
Wes
As an option for the steaming light this can be done. Never show the masthead anchor light and the steaming light at the same time.(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh299/1930fordroadster/SteamingLightWiring001.jpg)
skip.
Took the wheels off today and had the tires unmounted so I can sandblast and zinc the wheels. Whent ahead and took the hubs off too ... wow!!!
I am sure the Lord was with me on that drive back from St Louis!
I also am going to have to replace the backstay, it has a pretty good kink in it. Any ideas on where to find one pre-made? Or will/should I have to do that myself?
Fawsr,
Dwyer Aluminum Mast company made the originals here's a link:
http://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1ID=50&cat1Name=Rigging&familyID=21&familyName=Standing+Rigging (http://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1ID=50&cat1Name=Rigging&familyID=21&familyName=Standing+Rigging)
TG
Any full service Marina or boat yard. I use Great Lakes Yacht Service in Sturgeon Bay, Wisconsin. Twenty minutes, $80.00. I had my ss Dolphin [holds the bow sprit down, anchored at the bow eye] made after breaking mine while sailing. While on the water. I tied my bow sprit down with a piece of line...not an easy stretch with PFD on, ladder down and a 'grab' line at the bow trailing in the water astern, just in case I go overboard in the swells.
I measured center line pin to pin and had the boat yard use swedges, no turnbuckle, of course for your CP-19 back stay you'll need a turn buckle with ends swedged.
skip.
Been awhile since I updated ... Things are moving right along. I had a couple guys (riggers) look at the backstay, they felt like the kink was not bad enough to necessitate replacing the stay ... so we'll keep it!
These are pictures of the port side:
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/fawsrs1984CP19/IMG01725-20120329-1154.jpg)
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/fawsrs1984CP19/IMG01727-20120329-1226.jpg)
The port side is polished down to the waterline and freshly painted below.
This is the progress on the transom ... rudder parts are at the powder coating shop:
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/fawsrs1984CP19/IMG01692-20120313-1326.jpg)
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/fawsrs1984CP19/IMG01699-20120317-1743.jpg)
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/fawsrs1984CP19/IMG01719-20120328-0709.jpg)
Just getting started on the starboard side but I think it will go a lot more quickly than the first side did:
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/fawsrs1984CP19/IMG01731-20120329-1849.jpg)
http://www.sailblogs.com/member/weekenderii/
Port side clean as I'm gonna get it ... still some shadows but my stripes came today ...
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/fawsrs1984CP19/starboard.jpg)
I think its looking better ...
Turned it around and applied the bootstripe and some gold pinstripe ...
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/fawsrs1984CP19/port.jpg)
I can hear the water calling me ...
Painted bottom and striped starboard side today.
On the port side, I used two gold stripes - one above and one below the the white boot stripe.
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/fawsrs1984CP19/stbd1.jpg)
Today on the starboard side, I only used gold above the white line and let the blue come up to meet the white.
I think I'll redo the port side this way too.
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/fawsrs1984CP19/stbd4.jpg)
Looking good! I like the two-tone with white waterline stripe.
I wonder if that area was painted with a brown stripe in the past, never saw one with 2 tone.
Yes, there was the brown vinyl bootstripe but there was also a painted-on root beer brown stripe that had been painted over with anti-fouling.
I was originally going to use blue pinstripes, but Greene sent me some wide blue vinyl and included a bit of original gold pinstripe.
I realy liked it and ended up going with gold pinstripes. The white bootstripe is 2" vinyl.
I just have hanging the hardware back on the transom and I'll be ready to clean up the topsides.
Not going to spend near as much time on the topsides. Just a power wash and a hull cleaner and polish the metal ... and ... and ...
anyway, getting close to dunking time!
My rub rail is really rough to the touch and is beginning to split along the back on the lip. I was thinking about maybe replacing it sometime later.
Was thing of light sanding or scotchbrite followed by something like armorall or back-to-black?
Anybody here had good sucess rehabing a tired rub rail?
you have done a super job. hate to say it but i was considering buying that boat last year. but i wouldnt have done as good as you on her restoration. hey bring her to the rendezvous in august
Pulled all the wood off and oiled with teak oil ...
I had never unfurled the jib before so today i did ... very molded and mildewed.
Lowered the mast, pulled the jib off the furler and gave it a good bath.
This sail is a lot larger than I expected. The measurement across the bottom of the sail is 137"
Somebody tell me what this relates to in %. It comes back at least a foot or more past the spreaders and stops about midway down the hatch.
(http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/fawsrs1984CP19/IMG01794-20120428-1956.jpg)
That's bigger than mine and mine is a 150%
Well dang! While unstepping the mast yesterday found something I wasn't looking for and hadn't previously noticed. The two front attachemnt points on the mast base bracket had been thru bolted. The two in the rear still using screws. The screws were not holding at all. I pulled the bolts and found one clean and one with threads full of wood pulp. The base seems firm enough but will obvioulsy need to be opened up and repaired. I have really been trying to get this done in time for the FL120. Someone with a lot of experience tell me - How much am I risking to go ahead and sail it a few times before I dig this out and repair it?
Go sailing, the mast's tabernacle only holds the mast so it can be erected. The standing rigging does the lion's share of holding the mast and driving the boat.
My buddy's tabernacle on his CP-19 let go of all four screws at once at the ramp when we were walking the mast up.
So we drilled clean through, 3-M 5200 slow set or you can use Marine-Tex the whole mess and bolted the tabernacle down with 1/4-20 ss bolts, acron nuts, flat washers, and finishing washers, [ the finishing washers is what the end of the mast actually sets on. Doesn't even set on the bolt heads. Amazing ] and cleaned up the drip. One of the through drilled holes circum-forcing the compression post went clean through the overhead cabin light. But with the lens in place you can't see the nut.
An hour later we stepped the mast and went sailing. Have not touched any of this since and that was five years ago. And no plans to do anything else.
This isn't rocket science unless your a stickler for details and a~glutton for punishment.
skip.
skip is right, to a point. the tabernacle needs to be secure because it does hold the base of the mast from moving. however, the manufacturers don't thru bolt them because in the event of a demasting, you want the tabernacle to let go instead of tearing a hole in the cabin top.
if the two front holes are already thru bolted, the tabernacle ins't going anywhere.
i would make sure the two rear holes are sealed so no water can intrude.
carl
fawrs,
i'm also going to the fa 120. i'm planning on dragging my 15' hullmaster, but i'm waiting for the new forestay to arrive. it it is not here on time, i'll drag the cp19 down. maybe then i can convince the wife to come along.
hope to see you there, carl
Working on his book about Trailer Sailing, Bob Burgess wrote after a fact finding visit to Hutchen's that the very early CP-16's had the factory tabernacle bollted clean through.
skip.
I am needing a picture and or specifications for the bilge pump handle. My boat has the OEM bilge pump mounted with access in teh cockpit but I do not have a handle. Looks like a slip over sleeve type? Length? Diameter?
Most likely a Bosworth "Guzzler" series 500, which is what my 19 came with. You can crawl behind the pump and verify the model. Bosworth's web site www.thebosworthco.com has a "parts" section with exploded diagram. Looks like the replacement handle is about $10 from them. I have also special ordered Bosworth parts from Defender in the past, since their prices were reasonable and I order other stuff frequently from them. They have a helpful special order department.
If you are really cheap, I'll bet you could use a short piece of PVC pipe. But $10 seems like a fair deal to get the real handle with the rubber handle.
Bosworth offers, and Defenders carries, a "rebuild kit" for this pump that I've been seriously considering. I believe it includes replacements for all the rubber parts, including the main diaphragm that does the pumping. With a 24 year old pump I'd feel better knowing the moving parts were in good shape. A project that might have to wait until the winter because it's just too nice to hang around the driveway these days. Got to go sailing!
Wes
(http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h411/wnewman/gh-m-500-v_v1_co_prd.png)
Thanks a bunch ... that looks like my pump. I'll be ordering me a handle tomorrow.
me too, LOL, might even get a rebuild kit, seals look a little rough.
The rebuild kit is a good idea, especially if you are ordering from them already. At almost 30 years the rubber parts were better than I expected on mine, but still getting a bit dry. Its worth the peace of mind. Ordered my kit from west marine $20-25.