I bought the rudder control arm ; for lifting and pushing down the rudder , currently installing it I see a tendancy to lean to the left
befor I even have the buttom bolt screwed in. Is it possible I need to grind down the trailing edge of rudder thin enough for the fork at the bottom of
the control arm ?
It must be hanging higher on one side due to the layered thickness that had been added to my rudder ; looks like epoxied/glassed
thin layer , but not at all foiled like the naca .
WHOA! What are we talking about here? You need an auxiliary arm to lift the rudder?
I thought the factory drilled hole and locking cleat with a line through it was good enough to use with the tilt [ break-a-way ] rudder.
I would not change the shape of a foiled rudder.
skip.
not sure what the trailing edge of your rudder looks like (picture would help), but it needs to come up straight so that the tab can sit centered at the stop on top of the rudder post. If not it will have a tendency to trail off in that direction and your rudder will lift slightly increasing your weather helm dramatically. Mine comes up straight but doesn't lock well in the slot in the lower part of the rudder post casting. Consequently, it has a tendency to slide off to one side and let the rudder lift. My next project is to put stops on both sides of the casting so the tang cannot slide sideways. Notice how the tab on the control arm is under the rudder post casting step on this picture. I plan to add a stop to each side of the casting to keep it from sliding out sideways. the bungee is enough to keep it from coming out from the rear unless I hit something solid.
(http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af200/brackish_photos/ImprovementsArion027.jpg)
Thankx , I'll take a pic , also showing my 2 spots where I drilled holes. Very frustrating as I didnt see instructions on where EXACTLY
to drill the bottom attachment hole. So - one is in deep enough to stop the arm from swinging all the way , the other out far enough to swing
all the way but has slop around the holes where the blade is not perfectly level -- causing the control arm to lean in one direction at the top tab area.
Hock:
Is the hole in your rudder housing worn? Mine was, which caused slop in that connection. I also have to deal with salt water so that accelerated the corrosion.
I cured it by drilling the holes to 3/4" and using nylon bushings purchased at Lowe's and a 1/2" ss bolt. This has worked so well, that I've used it on my tiller connection to the rudder head.
I'm even using in on my rowing shell!
Did you buy your control handle from Hutchins or Ida Rudder?
Bob23
Hutchins . I drilled the 2 holes as best I could with the limited info. I will try the 3/4" hole and bushing deal.