Com-Pac Yacht Owners Association

My new-to-me CP 19 came with a trailer, but the previous owner left the boat in the water all the time, so he's not much help with trailer technique. Most photos I've seen on the CPYOA site don't appear to show any straps (other than the winch) being used to hold the boat to the trailer while on the road. But my trailer and winch come with all kinds of scary owner's-manual anguage about the importance of a bow strap (so the winch is not being relied upon to hold the boat on the trailer during travel) and body straps (to prevent the boat from bouncing). Any advice on "best practices" would be much appreciated by this newbie sailor.

Only time I ever used straps was for the "long haul" accross FL. anything local I don't strap it down. Just the winch. These boats are pretty heavy.

If you do use straps make sure to use something like a old T-shirt or rag to keep the straps from rubbing on the boat.

I strap down everytime. Sure the boat will most likely just sit there but all it takes is one dumbass in front doing some dumbass thing or another and well......
I use the wide heavy duty straps you normally see on trucks, my boat is worth it.

Of course if you take a look at my boat on the trailer you will understand why I have such a strong opinion on the matter.

(http://bmiller1959.smugmug.com/Other/Catalina-Island-2007/IMG1224/210181367_hK3tA-M.jpg)

Are those straps attached to some kind of brackets, or do you just loop them around the entire trailer?

Thanks for asking a great question.  This has concerned us since we purchased our 1988 CP19.  Hull #436.  When I picked it up in Detroit the previous owner stated that he never used any kind of safety chain at the bow or any kind of strap over the top.  I got as far as turning the corner at the end of his driveway before I decided to throw a strap across the cockpit.  The boat rocked pretty good and with an 8 -9 hour tow ahead of me I wanted the security of a strap.  

Currently I am just using a 2" wide strap over the cockpit (just forward of the winches) and attached to the trailer frame on both   sides.  There aren't any brackets, so just loop it around the C channel and hook it to the flange.  I use a couple of carpet squares under the straps to protect the coaming.  The strap still rubs against the sides of the hull, so I use some car wash mitts to cushion that area.

Hopefully someone will give us a method of securing the boat which is a little more attractive than the yellow strap.

Mike

I do likewise, a strap from the trailer over the aft end of the boat to the opposite side. I also tie a somewhat heavy line from the bow eye to the upright on the trailer that the wench mounts on. A short leash if you will. I wouldn't want the wench strap clip to break and let go of my pride and joy. I would caution that some web straps stretch especially when wet and should be checked for tightness occasionally. I've not used the heavy yellow straps so I'm not sure about those. I haven't had any problems but the peace of mind is well worth it to me.

mel

Quote from: Wes on November 29, 2010, 06:55:43 PM
Are those straps attached to some kind of brackets, or do you just loop them around the entire trailer?

They have hooks on the ends, just attached to the structure of the trailer. The front strap goes right over the mast step so no concern about compression, then through the handrail with a towel protecting the cabintop where it turns down. The aft strap goes right ahead of the whinches which is about the end of the trailer. I use something very much like this\/\/

(http://img.diytrade.com/cdimg/715420/5708472/0/1208747688/ratchet_tie_down_strap.jpg)

I've tried the towel/old shirt trick to prevent the straps from rubbing on the hull, but they always slipped or blew off.

My wife came up with a great idea though.  She bought two of those lamb's wool covers that are supposed to make seat belts more comfortable.  They have hook and loop attachments, go on easy, and don't move at all.  I used them while trailering the boat from northern Illinois to Key Largo, and they didn't move and protected the new paint from the strap.

I would assume one could use any soft material, and after marking the straps for location, sew on pads to prevent rubbing.

Another solution I use on another boat is to have strap attachments welded on the trailer that stick out so the strap doesn't come in contact with the hull.   The attachments also act as a step pad to climb onto the boat.

 another thing about straps---make sure you twist them on either side. if left flat they tend to "drum" in the wind and slap the hull,

Quote from: kickingbug1 on November 30, 2010, 02:22:09 PM
another thing about straps---make sure you twist them on either side. if left flat they tend to "drum" in the wind and slap the hull,

Sound advice, even a half twist will do.

About those pads for the straps, I have found a good solution, for me at least.  Go to the pluming department and get the gray slip over pipe insulation foam.  Slotted along the length and easily cut, it can be stuck onto the joint of deck and hull and will stay there while you position the strap.  Six inch lengths of the 3/4" i.d. work for me.  While out on the water they can be stored on a loop of the winch line on the trailer.  Like Ivory soap they float.  They are cheap, durable, stay in place and provide enough protection.  If you need a flat pad you can make one with the same material by scoring 2/3 of the way through in 30-45 degree segments using the original slot as a guide.  Ease it out flat and Duct tape end to end and side to side and it will stay flat.  Or gang them up for a larger flat piece.

As I mentioned, for my boat, a 12' Kolibri sloop made in Germany, it works.  Might work for you too.  I got here while lusting after a CP 19. 

Best to All,

Jim McGinley

Quote from: bmiller on November 30, 2010, 06:03:27 PM

Quote from: kickingbug1 on November 30, 2010, 02:22:09 PM
another thing about straps---make sure you twist them on either side. if left flat they tend to "drum" in the wind and slap the hull,

Sound advice, even a half twist will do.

I hear ya loud and clear!

I know it's a good idea to use straps from the trailer to the boat and back down to the trailer.
I don't do it. I feel the arch of the trailer hull bunks fitted well to the hull kind of 'locks' the hull into the arch.
The entire boat would need to jump up off the trailer and then squiggle around before falling off the trailer.
I think it would just jump up and fall right back down onto the hull bunks and on to three of the four rollers.  
A twist in the strap will keep them from slapping the hull. But use carpet scraps. Fuzzy side down.

You old timers will recall that I lowered both hull bunks down and Comfort & Joy sat on her keel supported by three of the four trailers and forward vee block winched tight.

I have rollers under my keel and I hack sawed all the keel bunks off. As they are always in the way, or the keel sits on the 2 x 6's and peels them off, or the keel was damaged putting the hull onto the trailer. Who needs them?

Somebody brought up what's required? I don't know. If you can do it and not cause a problem...it's legal???

Once the crew and I was coming back from building a paint finishing line in O'Fallon, Mo. [True Brothers coolers]
Our 3/4 ton pick-up diesel belching black smoke and doing maybe 45 mph down the highway was squatted down past 3/4 ton. The fifth wheel~four horse trailer was over loaded with tools and welders, and on that horse trailer's back end was a ball hitch that was towing a 18 foot double axle flat bed trailer and it was over loaded as well.

It took a good three minutes for that Indiana State Trooper to come up from behind and get to the front of the truck where our eyes met. He just shook his Smokey the bear hat and sped away.

Made it home that night.

skip.

down here in the keys i see people pulled over almost every day because there boats are not strapped down, you may not need a strap to hold your boat down, but you may need one to keep from getting a ticket for a unsecured load. just my $.02

Is that a Florida law? I usually don't strap mine down unless I'm going on a long haul

im like 99.9% sure it is in Florida, the only reason im not 100% is because i haven't actually found the law on the web, but i believe better safe than sorry imho 

I have traveled both ways -- with and without the safety strap.  After hitting a few potholes without the strap and watching the boat bounce around on the trailer, I never leave home without it.  It takes me an extra 2 minutes at the launch -- cheap insurance.  Plus, I have been told by fairly reliable sources that boats (and other loads like motorcycles, mowers, etc.) must be secured in a particular way according to law. 

Quote from: JLaman on March 28, 2011, 04:15:51 PM
I have traveled both ways -- with and without the safety strap.  After hitting a few potholes without the strap and watching the boat bounce around on the trailer, I never leave home without it.  It takes me an extra 2 minutes at the launch -- cheap insurance.  Plus, I have been told by fairly reliable sources that boats (and other loads like motorcycles, mowers, etc.) must be secured in a particular way according to law. 

wish someone could show me that law, I've never seen it nor have i ever seen or heard of anyone pulled over because of an unsecured load.  I've towed about 1500 miles without any straps.  The center of gravity is very low on the boat with the ballast lower than then bunk surface.  My view is that if you ever get enough G forces to overcome that resistant load, then whole trailer is going over and a strap isn't going to do a bit of good.

Well, for me, it's not the legal part that matters so much.  I suspect that a law of this sort only gets enforced when something falls off a trailer or truck and does some damage.  What does matter, and I have watched my own boat, is when the hull lifts off the bunk.  G forces and dynamics work in 3 dimensions, and the rocking mode will get the boat in motion on a sprung trailer with little damping (no shocks) in ways that can't necessarily be predicted.  I've never been in an accident, don't plan to be, but I wear still wear my seat belt to the grocery store!

I don't believe we're actually having a conversation about strapping the boat to the trailer. Other than moving the boat across the driveway, it's absolutely a no brainer.

Concerning legality - check out this Boat/US site on trailer laws -  http://www.boatus.com/Trailerclub/trailering_laws.asp.  I think every state has a check mark next to the Tiedown question (although a few are marked "NA").

Long haul truckers learn quickly about strapping down heavy loads. I don't care how heavy or light the boat is and how deep it's in the cradle. It's going to move around at speed, especially during emergency maneuvers or hard braking.  What did you say - you never brake that hard or have to change lanes quickly?  Tell that to the idiot who cuts you off and then slams on his brakes.

The following is also from Boat/US -  http://www.boatus.com/trailerclub/boat_trailer_walk_around.asp. Did you know that you HAVE to cross the chains? That's also required in most states.  I can't find the article now, but Boat/US had some nice pictures of a 25 foot sailboat sitting sideways on top of a Jeep Cherokee a few years ago. Truck stopped, trailer and boat did not. It jacknifed and the boat jumped on top of the Jeep.

lot of apples to oranges comparisons being used here:

long haul truckers secure a load on a flat bed or a drop bed.  Either way the center of gravity is normally one half the height of the load and that same dimension from the point of support.  They have to dog the load down or it will roll off at the first opportunity.  My 23 at rest has all the load on the keel support with two points of support (bunks) well above the center of gravity.  When put in motion the live load at the bunks can never be greater than the resistant live load unless a bunk fails.  if that happens a strap is not going to help.

I've watched mine in motion and have never seen it get into a rocking state side to side. It almost can't if the bunks are adjusted properly then the load will always want to wedge into the bunks. I've seen it rock fore and aft and have had concern about hitch connection integrity, but the only thing I can do there is make sure tongue weight is correct and the hitch connection is correct.  Strap wont help here either.

to each their own, it may give a sense of security to strap it, in my view a false sense.  If the law requires it, I may start using one set up so it cannot do more harm than good.

Wait. If the darn boat falls off the trailer, I have a bigger problem then just straps.
Probably find the whole rig rolled over in the ditch. Don't need the straps then.

"I've seen it rock fore and aft and have had concern about hitch connection integrity, but the only thing I can do there is make sure tongue weight is correct and the hitch connection is correct."

Rocking...the hull bunks are not floor jacked up into good hard contact with the curvature of the hull.
Tongue weight...I moved my trailer axle as far astern as possible to put as much weight on the hitch as possible.

What ever. Each to their own. skip.

Skip you're missing the point. Straps prevent the boat from sliding off in the first place. Bunks can and do fail.  You tow just a few miles but many including myself log hundreds of miles a year exploring new areas. No way would I tow without them,or stop at least hourly to check them. Also hitch weight...I seem to recall you were using 10% of your entire rig weight as the tongue weight. That's way, way too much. Should be using boat + trailer + boat gear in boat times .10 for tongue weight. Roughly 270 lbs for a cp19

Salty -

We may read about these guys in a couple of years, or maybe see the video on YouTube. It's absolutely insane (and ILLEGAL) to tow a significant distance at highway speeds without tie-down straps. If I can find that Boat/US article with the sail boat on top of the Jeep Cherokee I'll post it. Or we can wait for another photo-op. By the way, I recall that the insurance claim on this Jeep/sailboat mishap was reduced somewhat because of owner negligence.

I've been towing trailers for many years (open and enclosed car and boat trailers) and there is absolutely no way that I would not tie down a significant load. Momentum will get you in the end.

10 percent of total trailer weight on the tongue is at the upper end of what is considered "safe". I'd be shooting for 8 maybe. Under 6 is too low.

Quote from: CaptRon28 on March 29, 2011, 03:58:10 PM
Salty -

We may read about these guys in a couple of years, or maybe see the video on YouTube. It's absolutely insane (and ILLEGAL) to tow a significant distance at highway speeds without tie-down straps. If I can find that Boat/US article with the sail boat on top of the Jeep Cherokee I'll post it. Or we can wait for another photo-op. By the way, I recall that the insurance claim on this Jeep/sailboat mishap was reduced somewhat because of owner negligence.

I've been towing trailers for many years (open and enclosed car and boat trailers) and there is absolutely no way that I would not tie down a significant load. Momentum will get you in the end.

10 percent of total trailer weight on the tongue is at the upper end of what is considered "safe". I'd be shooting for 8 maybe. Under 6 is too low. 

The law in Mississippi says NA for tie downs and is one of the few states that requires brakes on a 2000# load.  I will guarantee that 95% of the trailers in the state between 2000 and 3000# do not have brakes.  I've yet to hear of any case where an insurance claim was lowered as a result of "negligence" when that part of the "law" is not followed.  My Insurance friends concur.  When they accept the policy they pay the claim.  I've heard that said about everything.  For instance, there are people who swear that if you do your own wiring, according to code, but without a licensed electrician, you void your insurance.  Pure poppycock.

You have a static load, a force moment of 3000# all vertical down.  You have two lateral supports that are approximately 25% above the centroid or center of gravity.  When you put that in motion the center of gravity doesn't change.  The live load force diagram will show a lateral force on cornering or dropping in a hole that cannot overcome the resistance of the bunk or become greater than the vertical down force if keel guides are in place and the bunks are up.  Now true, you can put one set of wheels in a straight drop ditch on a poorly banked turn in which case the whole thing goes over and a strap does nothing.  Or a bunk can fail and the boat goes over and just slides in the strap. 

If it makes you feel more secure, great, I just don't think it does anything on my 23.  On a boat with the center of gravity ABOVE all points of support, straps will provide necessary support, but not the way mine is set up.  On the other hand I'm a huge fan of cleaning, adjusting and testing my brakes,  a safety chain on the bow, properly crossed and attached safety chains between the trailer and the tow bar, and a properly installed break away cable on the brakes, and a tow vehicle that has both the tow capacity and the gross combined for the job with a minimum of 20% excess.

To avoid any confrontations with the "law" in other states, I'll probably rig a strap for show, but I don't have any illusions that it will do anything in a true catastrophic situation.

Well, crap happens is all the more I'm going to say!  I bet this guy is glad his boat stayed on the trailer!

http://www.offshoreonly.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=219

And this parting note, from www.boat-ed.com (runs boating safety courses in all 50 states as far as I can tell):

Before Leaving Home

Secure the vessel on the trailer and the gear within the vessel.

    * Secure all gear in the vessel firmly to keep it from shifting. Arrange the gear so that its weight is balanced side-to-side and front-to-back.
    * Secure the vessel to the trailer with several tie-down straps and/or safety lines to prevent the vessel from shifting. Use extra tie-down straps in case one fails. Never trust the bow winch alone to hold your vessel onto the trailer.
    * Put the engine or drive unit in the raised position and secure it.
    * Attach the safety chains between the trailer and the towing vehicle, crisscrossing them under the trailer tongue.

Travel safely this summer!

Capt...you're right 10% is the max.  I am not exactly sure what % I am but there is zero sway--flat, uphills and down so best not to change a thing. Certainly way more than I can lift, which would be more than 200lbs.

Brack-problem with towing is like a nuke plant. One thing wrong may not hurt. But add two or three issues and you have big problems.  Ex:  bunks fail, sharp maneuver and no straps.

Salty -

Use a bathroom scale, perhaps as part of a balance beam, to measure the actual tongue weight. Below is a setup that will measure about 900 pounds (using a 225 pound scale with a 4 to 1 setup on the 2x4 beam. The 6500 pounds of Telstar and trailer is setup for around 520 pounds on the tongue. That includes the weight of 4 heavy duty ratchet STRAPS. Note the Equalizer weight distributing hitch with sway control. That will probably be flagged as another unneccessary gizmo. Trailer has 4 wheel ventilated disc brakes as well. Added them about 2 years ago. I've been doing this too long to fool around with my life. The thing pulls like a freight train on tracks and stops about 25 percent shorter than before. I use the same hitch on the 4200 pounds of Horizon/trailer for longer tows.

(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq88/CaptRon400/PA250003.jpg)

I would never suggest that anyone set up their load to be towed in any manner other than what they would be comfortable with.  However, it was suggested that my particular position with regard to the value of straps or tie downs might be the result of significant mental impairment.  Why there was even anticipation of a future video produced, I'm sure, as a submission for consideration of a Darwin award.:)  While I find this mildly amusing, I'm disturbed that no one specifically challenged the engineering basis for my position.  Am I wrong with regard to the live load force diagram description?  Maybe so, but I do have some knowledge of such things.  Not directly relevant, but prior to setting up my boat to tow, this is the last thing I had to set up for towing:

(http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af200/brackish_photos/Scan.jpg)

Built by NATCO, part of Combustion Engineering's Oil and Gas division in Gulfport, MS, I was the load engineer.  Sold to Amoco, and delivered off the coast of Trinidad, quite intact I might add, I suspect it is still producing oil and gas today.  The loadout was made much more difficult because it was the first full platform the company built and it was the proverbial "boat in the basement".  The thing was mostly built by the time the final weight was calculated.  There are actually two platforms on the barge, each weighing just over 1000 tons and our building (water actually came inside the building 225 feet) only had 400 tons of bridge crane capacity.  But we figured out a way and off it went.

I kept that picture on my office wall for the rest of my career, even after changing industries, so that whenever faced with a seemingly impossible task, I could draw inspiration from it.

BTW, I'm convinced to add some type of strap, not because I think it will have any positive effect, but to avoid any confrontation with any individual who might want to enforce a law that was not specifically developed for my particular setup but enacted to cover every possibility.:)

I think inertia and momentum are the real issues here, especially when braking, along with centrifugal forces when changing direction at higher speeds. A significant portion of a substantial mass is sitting above the cradles, and that mass will definitely resist any attempt to change it's direction or speed. A sudden deceleration or change in direction could shift the load. Hitting a bump or depression in the road surface during one of these manuevers will only worsen the situation.

I don't think anyone suggested that those who don't use straps are mentally deficient. I may have used the expression "no brainer" and I apologize if it was taken the wrong way. My intention was that it was an easy decicsion for me to make. You definitely have the right (at least in some states) to not strap the boat down.

Just having some fun Ron, no offense taken.  Your comments and concerns are why it was a "live" load analysis.  Without really seeing it on the trailer, I would imagine that your Telstar would have a center of gravity, centroid, or rotational axis well ABOVE all supports including those supporting it laterally.  Tie downs certainly appropriate. Don't know about the Horizon Cat.

The loadout described above took place when I was 29.  It took 72 hours and I was up the entire time exuding confidence that my method for moving a load that was 2.5 times the cranes capacities would work just fine.  Truth is, despite knowing the engineering was sound, I was petrified.:)

I don't think I'd venture far with any un-strapped boat, but I suppose there are some that need it more. The Telstar is a good candidate for straps and a wing keel Catalina 250 I had 3 years ago would be a disaster waiting to happen. Pictures below, including one of the Telstar's trailer. Considering the 3 hulls spread out over 8 1/2 feet, it's a very good trailer arrangement. But it obviously needs straps. The Catalina would be on top of the Avalanche at the first traffic light. It was over 14 feet high.

(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq88/CaptRon400/trailer/P5070009a.jpg)

(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq88/CaptRon400/trailer/trailer.jpg)

(http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq88/CaptRon400/trailer/P8120066.jpg)

   I've been following this thread with interest and I guess when it comes to strapping my 23 for transport, my response is: why not? All the physics have been interesting and informative but when it's all said and done, I'm just a "tie it down with rope" freak. No, not the cp23- she get's a rachet strap but anything on my truck gets tied down with rope (read: no bungess) but that's a whole other subject. I think I remember a picture of Bill' cp27 "Pooka" with 3 straps but that is a real high rig.
   bob23

Capt Ron,

That pic of the Telstar sure brings back good memories. I had one for about 3 years. At the time I also had a Seapearl Tri. Now I've slowed down a bit. I guess you could say a "good bit". I've changed to a SunCat. Just got tired of rigging. Now I mostly Sail!

Terry Poling

Those are cool yellow straps. I wonder if they'll hold the boat on the trailer as the trailer flops over?

I was just funnin with you guys, how about that tiny little ring welded to the trailer channel, will that weld hold?
Of course the ring can be ignored and hooks snatched onto the trailer channel. That won't bend. Too much.

skip.

Quote from: skip1930 on April 03, 2011, 11:58:51 AM
Those are cool yellow straps. I wonder if they'll hold the boat on the trailer as the trailer flops over?

...... how about that tiny little ring welded to the trailer channel, will that weld hold?


skip.

Providing the fillet size is at least 75% of the thickness of the thinnest joined material, and it was welded without undercutting or cold lapping either of the joined materials; with filler metal that is chemically and mechanically compatible with both of the joined materials, it will have the same tensile and yield strenght that thinnest of the joined materials has.  but is that enough?:)

Skip -

The double hooks on the big yellow ratchet straps are hooked on the trailer frame. The single front strap was used for local trailering. On the road, there would be another big yellow strap across the bow, and hooked to one of the cross frame braces.

Out of curiosity, would you be comfortable towing that Catalina with the keel without straps? The center of gravity must be 7 feet off of the ground, and higher than the 6 tripods.

I had an old Bayliner back in the day. Probably about 2500lbs. One time on the way to the lake I decided to let my friend tow the boat w/ his truck. Pulling off for gas he cut the corner too short and hopped the trailer over the curb at about 10-15 mph. The tie down staps that came from the dealer that connected to the stern of the boat (through two pad eyes) snapped like a piece of yarn! When it comes to forces from an accident, I don't think those straps will do any good.

Years later I bought a Mastercraft (about 3000 lbs). It had no straps and the previous owner never used them. I've strapped my current boat down for long hauls (over 50 miles) but don't for local stuff. Seems the rag always blows off and then I have to worry about the strap rubbing. Turns out I just got back from Cayo COsta (150 miles) and realized I had my 1-7/8" ball on the hitch not the 2". Now THAT could have been really bad. I can't believe I did that. Once I realized (one week later) I hooked up the trailer and used the tounge jack to see if I could "pop" the trailer off the hitch. it wouldn't do it! almost had the rear tires of my truck off the ground.

If the straps make you feel better than use them but I agree it is a false sense of security, and I heard that in the Keys a boat does have to be strapped down. But no proof.

Like I said just funning with you guys.

You all know Mr. Hake, who use to work for Rich Hutchin producing the Com-Pac boats we enjoy. When Mr. Hake struck out on his own to produce the 26 foot Seaward Yachts just a few blocks from Hutchins, he decided to show one of his Seaward 26 footer's at Navy Pier in Chicago. It was the first year I attended that show.

On display was the very boat that had become dislodged [meaning no amount of straps would hold this tub] from the semi-flatbed that crashed in Indiana just short of entering Illinois and the boat rolled down an embankment...oh the usual pictures and arrows and verbiage was shown on matte boards and easels at the foot of the stairs leading to the deck of this unfortunate creature on display at the show.

Mr. Hake himself was perched in the cockpit above it all and proudly directing visitors to his boat to notice the slight scar on the starboard side of the bow. No other damage was visible, nor was there any additional damage when the Indiana State Patrol brought in a state wrecker to winch the poor thing back up to the highway where a crane lifted it back on to another flatbed heading for Chicago's Navy Pier All Sail Boat Show.

Just telling a story, not making a point. skip. Oh by the way here we towed this Coronado, like this.



My buddy bought this tub, we built a cradle and we towed it back from several states away like this behind my Ford Expedition. I think the boat is 28 foot. No trailer brakes. The boat looks better in blue.




Here is my trailer we used to haul Steve's Coronado. Home built years ago....no extra charge for the two bent axles...I over loaded it once with compost for the gardens. And I dropped a 60 hp Baldor Motor from 15 foot onto the bed.



Another tow job for another buddy.

Taking my Catalina 22 (the one in the picture) out Saturday for the first sail of the season, we were crossing the SR 79 bridge just about to the marina, when we hit a heavy bump and the pin flipped out of the latch and the tongue jumped off the truck!  I run ratchet straps fore and aft, and thank God for safety chains.  I didn't trust them much before, but I do now.  Fortuantly, the only harm done was I almost ground through the safety chains.  I jacked the trailer back up and got it on the truck ball, and was on my way again.  Just need to change shorts and buy a new set of safety chains.  Story of the sail will be posted later.

And a locking pin for that latch!

TG

Insert that pin with the horse shoe keeper on it into the lever and locking mechanism. I even take PVC electric tape and go around the whole ball hitch/lever/and under the extension holding the ball out from the receiver a couple of times. Tape is cheap compared to dropping the hitch off the ball.

Hint: Fit the latch...When the trailer is down on the ball, slide under there and tighten up that lock nut that forces the locking fork up under the ball. Make it tight then back it off until you can almost force the locking lever down and into the locking notch using a little effort. Some times stand on it helps.

The only reason the trailer came off the ball is during a bump that fork under the ball popped up with the trailer tongue and was larger then the dia of the ball, allowing the hitch to leave the ball. Providing the locking latch did not pop out of the notch.

The test is to hitch up, and jack up the trailer tongue. You should see the tow come up with the jack. I can jack mine until the hitch and ball bind up and the rear wheels almost come off the ground. Nothing pops out.

I dropped a double axle race car trailer on a two lane once. The trailer tongue went clean through my left rear American Mag Wheel shattering it. Then those darn safety chains kept the trailer wiggling back and forth behind my Chevy Step side and ever time I applied the breaks the tongue would batter my rear bumper and valance area. I was sorry the chains did not break, but on the other hand the road was busy and may take out some other car. The hitch was toast, I had to leave the trailer on the side of the road until after putting the spare on and coming back after work. So I learned to tighten up that 'ADJUSTABLE' nut under the hitch to grab the ball.

skip.