I'm in the process of making new companionway hatch boards but don't have the dimensions. My boat is over an hour away and I was hoping someone might have these dimensions handy so I can make the boards here at home and bring them to the boat competed. Thanks.
Greetings USMCR 0-5: What are you sailing? 16? 19? 23? etc...
By the way, where is your home port? And welcome to the forum!
Bob23
I believe the Lt. Colonel sails a 23.
tg
Duh, yeah. I guess that's why this is in the 23 section. Just a small brain fart.
Bob23
(I may be down to the boat today...if so, and I can remember where I put it, I'll measure 'em up.)
I'm in the Tampa Bay area. My 23/3 is in need of a thorough restoration. It's been sitting at a dock behind a friend's house for a number of years. The bottom looks like a coral reef but I think it will clean up nicely. I have to replace the companionway hatch to keep the rain out. Next, I've got to get the boat out of the water to dry it out and start the restoration.
Quote from: USMCR O-5 on November 16, 2010, 09:09:29 PM
I'm in the Tampa Bay area. My 23/3 is in need of a thorough restoration. It's been sitting at a dock behind a friend's house for a number of years. The bottom looks like a coral reef but I think it will clean up nicely. I have to replace the companionway hatch to keep the rain out. Next, I've got to get the boat out of the water to dry it out and start the restoration.
The tough part of making the hatchboard from dimensions will be getting the curve on the top right. Easier to do with another hatchboard to use as a pattern, but should be doable. It is a very large radius curve though but if all you need for now is a temporary slab of plywood, then anything close should be good enough. Can't get to mine for another few days so you'll have to wait for Bob to measure.
Curtis
Did you ever get what you needed? I just happen to have a brand new set in my garage from Hutchins. Here are a bunch of pictures. If you need any more specific info just ask.
(http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i156/gjferg/drop%20boards/th_P1000019.jpg) (http://s71.photobucket.com/albums/i156/gjferg/drop%20boards/?action=view¤t=P1000019.jpg) (http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i156/gjferg/drop%20boards/th_P1000020.jpg) (http://s71.photobucket.com/albums/i156/gjferg/drop%20boards/?action=view¤t=P1000020.jpg) (http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i156/gjferg/drop%20boards/th_P1000021.jpg) (http://s71.photobucket.com/albums/i156/gjferg/drop%20boards/?action=view¤t=P1000021.jpg) (http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i156/gjferg/drop%20boards/th_P1000022.jpg) (http://s71.photobucket.com/albums/i156/gjferg/drop%20boards/?action=view¤t=P1000022.jpg) (http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i156/gjferg/drop%20boards/th_P1000024.jpg) (http://s71.photobucket.com/albums/i156/gjferg/drop%20boards/?action=view¤t=P1000024.jpg) (http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i156/gjferg/drop%20boards/th_P1000025.jpg) (http://s71.photobucket.com/albums/i156/gjferg/drop%20boards/?action=view¤t=P1000025.jpg) (http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i156/gjferg/drop%20boards/th_P1000027.jpg) (http://s71.photobucket.com/albums/i156/gjferg/drop%20boards/?action=view¤t=P1000027.jpg)
*A couple notes:
- The lower edge measurement is not an over all measurement. It's offset by the the radius and the angle of the side edge (see close-up).
- The interior edges are rounded all the way around the perimeter
- The upper edges of both the upper and lower drop boards are beveled toward the exterior to prevent rain from entering.
Here's my opinion...I made a set of drop boards of my own. They didn't make it two seasons here in FL. Granted, I used veneered plywood from Home Depot, and I'm the farthest thing from a carpenter, but since you live over in Tampa, I'd head over to Hutchins and just pick up a new set. They're teak, they're beautiful and they're done...all you'll need is some varnish. If I recall they were about 80 bucks and you'll save on the shipping.
--Greg
Greg,
Interior plywood uses water soluable glue which is a bad idea for a hatchboard. Exterior plywood doesn't come with nice veneers. If you go with plywood it has to be marine grade veneer and I don't think you can get that at Home Depot.
At $80 the only reason to make them would be for the satisfaction of making them, or to modify the design a little. For example some people have made plexiglass/lexan hatchboards or made three boards with vents in the middle board.
My boards have a peice of teak across the top where part of the companionway hasp is mounted. See the small photo below.
(http://www.faster-light.net/remote-access/image/forward-view.jpg)
Do your photos show just the back side of the hatchboards or is this peice across the top not there?
Curtis
Hey Curtis...
I agree whole heartedly about making them for the satisfaction of making them. Personally, I get more satisfaction from buying them knowing that they cost only a wee bit more than I spent trying to make them and I get to use the time I saved to do other things that I find more satisfying. :)
My pictures are of the exterior side of the boards (I suppose that would be the back relative to the boat), however, no, I don't have that teak piece across the top. That's actually a great idea. They way my boards are set up, the top hatch slides over the drop boards a bit when closed. This acts as a drip edge so to speak, but it also leaves an opening at either side of the sliding hatch through which mud daubers seem to exploit without fail.
Nice snow BTW :P
Quote from: kchunk on November 18, 2010, 11:47:54 PM
Nice snow BTW :P
That photo is very old and that is the boatyard that I bought to boat from. It was the first photo I found with the hatchboard in it.
Not this is snow on the boat (also old photos):
(http://localweb.orleans.occnc.com/photos/thumbnails/2005/20051215-boat-snow/small-photo02.jpg) (http://localweb.orleans.occnc.com/photos/thumbnails/2006/20060101-snowman/small-photo07.jpg)
I had a bit of work getting the brightwork back into shape in the spring. I did shovel the snow each time it snowed. I also had to varnish the tiller the following year. Better to cover the boat.
Curtis
Thanks all for the great replies! Thanks especially to Greg for the photos and the dimensions. I didn't realize that replacement boards direct from Hutchins were so inexpensive. I'm less than an hour from there so I may very well go get a set from them. In the meantime I will cut a rough piece of exterior grade plywood (using Greg's dimensions) to close the cabin up from the elements.
Well, I went over to Hutchins yesterday and they couldn't have been more helpful. I called an hour before I got there and the cut the boards before I arrived. They were very helpful with my questions about the boat. It's a good thing I put the new boards in; when I got to the boat, I had an unpleasant surprise. About 2 inches of rainwater was sloshing around the cabin floor. Restoration just got a little harder!
If the water hasn't been there long you may be OK. Otherwise you may be able to dry it out and then light sand. If you have a water line, you may be able to dry the wood for a few months and then sand and oil the wood and get it to disappear. A water line can be the hardest to get rid of.
Curtis
USMCR,
Can you take some before pictures and post them as you do your restoration ?
I think this would be interesting to follow along.
Glenn
I have "before" pictures to post, but I hate to admit that I'm not sure how to post them on this forum.
Here are a couple of photos; I think I got this right.
http://s1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/
http://s1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/CPYOA/
Trying to post a pic?
hit the "direct link" under the picture and note that you get a "copied" indication.
In your post, hit the "Img" button, (second from the left, bottom row)
when the double IMG comes up in your posting with the cursor blinking between them, hit paste.
Should show as a picture when you do a preview.
Semper Fi
I've started a new thread, call "Restoration of Seute Deern" which has before and after pics.
I have launched a winter project of making new hatch boards. The previous owner made new ones, but either used the wrong wood or the wrong type of finish, because they delaminated in the first year. What I'm doing is using high-quality plywood (okoume), two coats of e-poxy (West Systems - resin #105 and hardener #207), and three coats of Helmsman urethane. I have to laugh to read of the price of replacements from the factory, because I've invested almost that much money in the wood and finishes! Still, it's a fun project. I'll post pics when I finish.
-Speak
Things are progressing nicely. I have the two coats of e-poxy and two of the three coats of poly on now. I'm steel-wooling between coats. They feel like plastic, but look like wood. Nice.
-Speak
Speak:
Ditch the steel wool and go with either bronze wool or a Scotchbrite pad. You could get small bits of steel wool in thar which will rust. Don't ask how I know this.
When you look at the beautiful finished product, you'll be glad you spent the money and time. We'll be looking forward to the photos!
Bob23
Quote from: Bob23 on January 16, 2011, 08:50:48 PM
Speak:
You could get small bits of steel wool in thar which will rust.
Bob23
Good Grief! You're right! I can see small specks in the finish! ARGH! I'll have to get them out of there!
Thanks for the heads-up!
-Speak
No problemo...I've been there. Scotchbrite pads work great. I steal 'em from the wifes dishwashing stuff. Hah! I ain't been caught yet!!!
Bob23
Oh Bob you gullible sailor. They are always aware of everything we do. They just pretend not to see and look the other way while they snicker at our innocent foolishness. They hear, see and guess anything and everything we do. Heck, I believe they know what we are thinking before we even think it. You've been caught, just not punished.
Mike
Mike:
Well, thanks a lot! You couldn't have just let me live in my "innocent foolishness" could you? And all this time I thought I was getting away with something. It sounds like you are speaking from experience!
Bob23