Just curious as to how many and how safe it is to trailer with the outboard mounted on the adjustable motor mount?
Doug
Doug,
I have a motor raising system that carries the weight on the stern rail at the intersection of the stanchion, so the weight is not borne by the bracket. You could easily capitalize on this idea and simply run a line from the mount to the rail to take the strain of the weight especially when going over bumps, while trailing.
Ron
P.S what motor do you have on your boat? I have a rectifier on my motor, and to dismount each time would be a lot of wiring work. The stern rail will support the weight of your motor with no problem.
I built a motor mount on the winch support at the front of the trailer, I used a fulton tire mount kit and a motor mount board. I store the motor here while traveling.
short distances (less than 10 miles)..... yes
long distances (more than 10 miles)..... no
When I do have the motor on, I am VERY careful and avoid as many bumps as possible.
I do not. Motor mount clearly says not to trailer with the motor mounted. My 9.9 elec. start, 4 stroke is heavy, so I dismount it and put it in the bed of the PU truck. I suppose I could provide extra support up to the top of the transom in some manner, but then I would want to check my tongue weight to verify it is appropriate.
There was thread a ways back about how to shore up weakened and flexing transom area where the mount is. I suspect that weakness may have come from trailering with the motor mounted.
I do. But then I have a fixed (non-adjustable) mount and my outboard only weighs about 30 lbs! It surprises me every time I pick it up. Still I put a leash on it. I'd hate to cause anyone else damage or injury if I'm wrong and something does fail.
mel
When I had an outboard it never rode on the transom. Too much bouncing and flexing. Too easy to put it in the bed of the truck, where it's safe.
Sometimes I do and sometimes I don't.
If I am sailing locally I leave the motor on, we have a ramp in our neighborhood that is less than 1/4 mile from the house,
and two others within 3 miles.
When we travel with distance or highway speeds involved the motor rides in the bed of the truck.
I will probably add a motor mount on the winch, sometime in the future, to keep the motor from bouncing around in the truck.
Quote from: lostsailor on September 16, 2010, 08:21:43 AM
....I will probably add a motor mount on the winch, sometime in the future, to keep the motor from bouncing around in the truck.
I put the trailer spare tire down first, then the motor lays on it on the side recommended by the manufacturer (important for four strokes). Both chained to the bed lugs. Spare kind of cushions the motor. Still fits under the Tonneau cover.
Quote from: Potcake boy on September 14, 2010, 08:37:49 AM
Doug,
I have a motor raising system that carries the weight on the stern rail at the intersection of the stanchion, so the weight is not borne by the bracket. You could easily capitalize on this idea and simply run a line from the mount to the rail to take the strain of the weight especially when going over bumps, while trailing.
Ron
P.S what motor do you have on your boat? I have a rectifier on my motor, and to dismount each time would be a lot of wiring work. The stern rail will support the weight of your motor with no problem.
Ron,
We have a 4.5 Evinrude on our cp-19. I think weighs around 58 pounds. Looking to carry it on the trailer somewhere.
Doug
[/quote]
I put the trailer spare tire down first, then the motor lays on it on the side recommended by the manufacturer (important for four strokes). Both chained to the bed lugs. Spare kind of cushions the motor. Still fits under the Tonneau cover.
[/quote]
Do any of you 4 strokers ever have trouble with the oil coming out of the foot of the motor or getting into the combustion chamber. I have a Yamaha 4 stroke and travel several steep hills and have had this problem. Have had to remove plug and pull it through to get rid of oil. Motor is laid on correct side per manufacture instruction.
Doug,
Here are two views of my motor hoisting system. As you can see I have used the original main sheet block and cleat for part of the system. You can get the same support for your motor in transit by simply looping a line through the release handle of the motor bracket and over the stern rail directly above. I'd suggest looping it a couple of times to minimize the stretch, and if you use one of your dock lines with a eye splice at one end, you can put your standing part through that for a double purchase when taking the slack out. This removes the weight from the transom mounting point and is carried by the supporting line. This is far simpler than building a special motor bracket and/or removing the motor each time you trail your boat, and the simpler the plan the surer the success. As I mentioned in my initial reply, my motor has a rectifier so I'd have to disconnect the wiring and re-route each time, not to mention the fact that it is an 85# beast to tote around.
I have made a couple of 5 hour trips and have have no problem with the motor bouncing around.
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss51/roneweber/First%20Album/Com%20Pac%2019/DSC_1761.jpg
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss51/roneweber/First%20Album/Com%20Pac%2019/DSC_1762.jpg
P.S. the simplest way to these links is to put your cursor on the link, left click 3 times (to highlite the entire URL) then right click and select the "go to" option.
Good luck,
Ron
Do any of you 4 strokers ever have trouble with the oil coming out of the foot of the motor or getting into the combustion chamber. I have a Yamaha 4 stroke and travel several steep hills and have had this problem. Have had to remove plug and pull it through to get rid of oil. Motor is laid on correct side per manufacture instruction.
I haven't had that problem, but motor sits tilted up somewhat with the top on the spare and the foot on the bed. Done some hilly towing, particularly around north Alabama.
We have been removing the motor from our CP19 each time we trailer her, so I really like Potcake's rope and pulley support. I may have to copy that idea.
We were towing our previous boat (CP16) with a minivan and we didn't like the smell of the outboard inside the van. We built this simple tongue mount which worked really well. It also had the benefits of adding a little tongue weight on the hitch and acting as a handrail when walking the planks on the tongue to hook or unhook the winch strap.
(http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt211/greene2108/CopyofDSC00952.jpg)
(http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt211/greene2108/CopyofDSC00953.jpg)
+1...agree with Greene. Take 'er off when you trailer it.
Right now it goes in the back of my truck but this winter I'm building a stand like Greene has shown...same thing I did to the 16 trailer and it worked well.
Greene,
I would like to add that my raising system allows operation from a seated position in the cockpit as opposed to hanging over the rail fussing with the locking mechanism and straining your back. It also provides greater range of adjustment both up and down and easy to set anywhere in between. I have a 15" shaft which never ventilates even in big steep seas, and lifts clear of the the water for sailing on the first shallow water drive setting, so it's nearly vertical when sailing.
The raising rig is the primary support so the weight is not on the transom even when motoring. The rail carries this weight with no adverse effect, especially since it's near the stanchion. It's a really good upgrade and addresses many of the familiar problems with these adjustable brackets.
Ron
If you do trailer w/ the motor on the mount, do not have it tilted up. Make sure it is in the upright and locked position!
+2 on Green's set up. That looks like the best of both worlds. No smelly gas in the vehicle and no bouncing on the motor mount.
That said, mine just sits in the back of my van and... yes, it does smell some times.
I've trailered my '77 CP16 with a 4hp 4 stroke Yamaha with the motor on the adjustable motor mount for 7 years without issue. The transom or the motor mount show no wear at all. It's pulled on a 1200 mile (round trip) vacation every year as well. I've got a lock on the motor clamps so they won't rotate loose. The motor is in the down position as is the motor mount. It made me nervous at first, but looking out the rearview mirror, it seems that the motor and the adjustable mount turn the real jolting bumps into a slow easy bounce.
I was at the boat ramp yesterday and there was a fishing boat w/a 250hp merc on the back, with teh trim up. I figured if he (and all other fishing boats w/ motors that big can leave them on, so can I.
Good point jkat about leaving it down, I always thought leaving it up would decrease he pressure on the springs but w/ it down it acts as a big shock absorber. I do think I will put it up when parked though.
Let her hang. Only take the Murcury O/B off for the winter, and into the basement where is stays warm.
skip.